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Is the extended warranty worth it?

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How critical is battery fluid replacement? I am at 47k miles & I guess I need to have the battery & brake fluids flushed, I didn't purchase the maintenance plan but did buy the extended warranty for $2500 prior to the price hike.
The risk will be corrosion and/or pump and valve lubrication issues in the cooling system. Not sure what the actual risk here would be (compared to some diesels that have pitting issues with old coolant), but they may not cover the battery under the warranty if there is a cooling issue.
 
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1. Would performing the required services yourself void the warranty (original or extended)?

2. What about performing those services at service center other than Tesla?

3. Not performing at all?
 
1. Would performing the required services yourself void the warranty (original or extended)?

2. What about performing those services at service center other than Tesla?

3. Not performing at all?

All good questions - I would want to know the answers in writing from Tesla.

For me personally, until I know for sure - I'm not going to gamble with a $xx,000 battery and DU. I called the SC today and they said mine was done at 50k miles so I have another year or so before I need to worry about it.
 
I know that in general, in order to deny warranty, manufacturer has the burden of prof and must demonstrate that certain actions or lack of them caused a failure which is being sought to be repaired under warranty. Here is something from FTC:

"In fact, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, which is enforced by the FTC, makes it illegal for manufacturers or dealers to claim that your warranty is void or to deny coverage under your warranty simply because someone other than the dealer did the work"

Auto Warranties & Routine Maintenance | Consumer Information
 
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I'm coming up on my 4 year anniversary of my purchase and debating if its worth paying $4,000 for the ESA (assuming I keep the car for another 3+ years). NOTE: I already have the maintenance package for 8 years (from new).

Cons:
  • $200 deductible
  • Drivetrain and battery (big $$$ items) are still covered by the original warranty.
  • Doesn't cover creaks/leaks/rattles ...which is something that recurs for me (rattles) and is annoying.
  • And from the agreement itself:
    • Other Parts not covered: o Bright metal, sheet metal, bumpers, ornamentation moldings, carpet, upholstery, paint, shock absorbers, 12V battery, battery cables, lenses, light bulbs, sealed beams, glass (e.g., windshield), wheels, interior trim, body seals and gaskets (e.g., weather stripping); and o Removable soft tops, removable hard tops, glass, plastic, framing, cables, or seals;
Pros: ???

I can't think of anything during my last 4 years of maintenance/service that wasn't a battery/drivetrain or just covered by the maintenance package. Perhaps the 17" display could go bad -- does anyone know the cost of replacing without warranty?

$4000 + $200 per visit seems like a lot to cover little. I'm hoping someone can enlighten me :)
No!
Save your money!
 
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I bought the extended warranty (...when they were cheaper, and included unlimited Ranger service) because I was getting an early-off-the-line model. I still expect to see more weird early-model warranty issues; danger of being an early adopter. If you're buying an S, the production has probably stabilized by now; any more weird problems I see in years 5-8 will be fixed for YOU in years 1-4.
 
I'm coming up on my 4 year anniversary of my purchase and debating if its worth paying $4,000 for the ESA (assuming I keep the car for another 3+ years). NOTE: I already have the maintenance package for 8 years (from new).

Cons:
  • $200 deductible
  • Drivetrain and battery (big $$$ items) are still covered by the original warranty.
  • Doesn't cover creaks/leaks/rattles ...which is something that recurs for me (rattles) and is annoying.
  • And from the agreement itself:
    • Other Parts not covered: o Bright metal, sheet metal, bumpers, ornamentation moldings, carpet, upholstery, paint, shock absorbers, 12V battery, battery cables, lenses, light bulbs, sealed beams, glass (e.g., windshield), wheels, interior trim, body seals and gaskets (e.g., weather stripping); and o Removable soft tops, removable hard tops, glass, plastic, framing, cables, or seals;
Pros: ???

I can't think of anything during my last 4 years of maintenance/service that wasn't a battery/drivetrain or just covered by the maintenance package. Perhaps the 17" display could go bad -- does anyone know the cost of replacing without warranty?

$4000 + $200 per visit seems like a lot to cover little. I'm hoping someone can enlighten me :)
Provided that my Model S does not start having tons of problems between now (13k miles) and the 50k mile mark, I will skip the ESA. Just about any major part can be sourced as a used part and getting them programmed to work with your car has been solved by several people now.
 
I'm at that point too. 48.5k miles. Thus far the car had one issue (a leak in the trunk) which they replaced. My service guy, Erick, also noticed some other minor squeaks and noises he also applied to factory warranty on his own, but the car really has been bulletproof. My greatest freak-out moment came when the battery in my key fob suddenly died and I had to remember to use the app to unlock the car so I could get the spare battery (keep one for just such reasons).

So, I called the Raleigh SC to get an idea about some prices. Talked to a mechanic who said:
MCU is about $2700 to replace
Each door handle is $900 to replace

Guy was very clear he wasn't pushing the ESA at all. Just giving me some estimates on big ticket items. I'm normally not an extended warranty guy but still contemplating. Deductible not appealing at all, but I guess it keeps the nit-picking down to a minimum. I just don't want a dead MCU and a $3k bill...
 
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Guy was very clear he wasn't pushing the ESA at all. Just giving me some estimates on big ticket items. I'm normally not an extended warranty guy but still contemplating. Deductible not appealing at all, but I guess it keeps the nit-picking down to a minimum. I just don't want a dead MCU and a $3k bill.

Only one dead MCU and you still would be ahead vs buying the extended warranty (isn't it $4k?) So you would need 1 MCU and 1 door handle to break even. Then you would be ahead for any repairs after that. Its a betting game.
 
I'm coming up on my 4 year anniversary of my purchase and debating if its worth paying $4,000 for the ESA (assuming I keep the car for another 3+ years). NOTE: I already have the maintenance package for 8 years (from new).

Cons:
  • $200 deductible
  • Drivetrain and battery (big $$$ items) are still covered by the original warranty.
  • Doesn't cover creaks/leaks/rattles ...which is something that recurs for me (rattles) and is annoying.
  • And from the agreement itself:
    • Other Parts not covered: o Bright metal, sheet metal, bumpers, ornamentation moldings, carpet, upholstery, paint, shock absorbers, 12V battery, battery cables, lenses, light bulbs, sealed beams, glass (e.g., windshield), wheels, interior trim, body seals and gaskets (e.g., weather stripping); and o Removable soft tops, removable hard tops, glass, plastic, framing, cables, or seals;
Pros: ???

I can't think of anything during my last 4 years of maintenance/service that wasn't a battery/drivetrain or just covered by the maintenance package. Perhaps the 17" display could go bad -- does anyone know the cost of replacing without warranty?

$4000 + $200 per visit seems like a lot to cover little. I'm hoping someone can enlighten me :)


It is a lot to pay for that. However keep in mind they sort of have leverage on you with that drive train and charge system. I once thought I could not have problems with the car until I got stranded at a super charge station because my car wouldn't charge. Apparently my on board charger failed. So you may want to consider what happens should you keep the car for a prolonged period. I called Tesla and they ended up having me go to Ford Dealership to go charge. When that didn't work I was forced to plug into a 120 Volt. That was super slow. After about 5 hours later they sent a tow truck for my car. That was one late night. So it is possible you might need the extended warranty. The only problem is that is mileage based so if you eat the distance up you will use up the warranty pretty fast.

Since no one else manufactures the parts you are forced to deal with Tesla.
 
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Only one dead MCU and you still would be ahead vs buying the extended warranty (isn't it $4k?) So you would need 1 MCU and 1 door handle to break even. Then you would be ahead for any repairs after that. Its a betting game.

Did you have that happen too? My Master charge unit died as well. From experience you are dead in the water when that happens.