Here's a vid of the issue we're facing. Frunk seems to unlock, but doesn't release. I do have EVOffer's (was TeslaOffer) auto frunk installed, but I'm wondering if the actual Tesla latch has failed. Warranty expired two months ago of course. Any suggestions?
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Is this frunk going to cost me?
- Thread starter kuruma
- Start date
Billbrown1982
TM3 LR 2021 | Red | FSD
Its hard to tell from the video is the frunk completely shut? Can you push down on it hard enough for it to latch again (being careful not to bend it of course)
Mine used to do that from time to time when it catch's during release and only opens a mm or so.
I will say though it doesn't "sound" quite right to me. If the bonnet isn't even moving slightly then it might be time to try the ol emergency release cable.
Mine used to do that from time to time when it catch's during release and only opens a mm or so.
I will say though it doesn't "sound" quite right to me. If the bonnet isn't even moving slightly then it might be time to try the ol emergency release cable.
I've tested using the emergency release and I didn't detach the 12v battery.
So I believe it also works when the car is unlocked.
You could also try pushing down on the bonet while you open it with the app. Maybe the latch is jammed because of upward pressure. The alternative is trying to lift it while opening, maybe with something plastic prised under the bonet so not to damage the paintwork. It's one situation the Tesla panel gaps might be useful.
So I believe it also works when the car is unlocked.
You could also try pushing down on the bonet while you open it with the app. Maybe the latch is jammed because of upward pressure. The alternative is trying to lift it while opening, maybe with something plastic prised under the bonet so not to damage the paintwork. It's one situation the Tesla panel gaps might be useful.
MrBadger
Badger out
I’ve not looked at the video, but could it be frozen.
Our boot froze stuck closed yesterday ironically just as I was heading to the Gummi Pfledge that I should have applied a couple of week ago but was too wet at the time.
Our boot froze stuck closed yesterday ironically just as I was heading to the Gummi Pfledge that I should have applied a couple of week ago but was too wet at the time.
Billbrown1982
TM3 LR 2021 | Red | FSD
AFAIK the EvOffer one has had firmware updates that are supposed to prevent it becoming a problem in those situations...but like anything, until it actually happens I won't know.
I have an EVOffer kit installed myself and I go back and forth on wanting to remove it vs taking the chance.
You actually reminded me and I google the issue every so often and found this video:
Won't help the OP sadly, but might be worth doing as a backup in case of failure.
Have you got the first version of the EV Offer frunk? It had really bad water ingress problems which caused this to happen, the newest one has way better weather sealing.
But in this case if you can't get it open via the emergency release you'll likely need to get Tesla (either ranger or service centre) to jack up the car and release it from underneath somehow, if that's even possible. Not sure if it would involve taking off the bumper.
I have the same kit installed so this is a little concerning, but I don't keep anything in the frunk I couldn't live without for a few weeks.
Thanks everyone for the input.
It's the Mark 3.0 version of the frunk. EVOffer haven't responded despite me sending them the info they requested first thing this morning but it is Sunday (night in China). I'm not yet convinced that this is anything but a simple latch failure i.e. a failure of Tesla's mechanism. Hopefully EVOffer will be able to confirm that soon. We've not had any issues with it in the 3.5 years we've had it installed.
Initially the car seemed to assume the frunk was open and was flashing warnings about driving like in the vid, but the frunk was very definitely locked closed. I let the car go to sleep and then it woke up and realised it was locked so drove it today with no issues at all which is a relief. I'll try giving it a good push down while we trigger it tomorrow (after the school run!) to see if that works. If it does open, I'll not close it again without some silicone and string.
Yep, as per the video, for all of you with a working frunk, tie 1p's worth of string to your latch to prevent your £40k+ car failing on you
It's the Mark 3.0 version of the frunk. EVOffer haven't responded despite me sending them the info they requested first thing this morning but it is Sunday (night in China). I'm not yet convinced that this is anything but a simple latch failure i.e. a failure of Tesla's mechanism. Hopefully EVOffer will be able to confirm that soon. We've not had any issues with it in the 3.5 years we've had it installed.
Initially the car seemed to assume the frunk was open and was flashing warnings about driving like in the vid, but the frunk was very definitely locked closed. I let the car go to sleep and then it woke up and realised it was locked so drove it today with no issues at all which is a relief. I'll try giving it a good push down while we trigger it tomorrow (after the school run!) to see if that works. If it does open, I'll not close it again without some silicone and string.
Yep, as per the video, for all of you with a working frunk, tie 1p's worth of string to your latch to prevent your £40k+ car failing on you
I have the Mark 3.0 (or 3.1, not sure) version of the same frunk kit (currently removed due to multiple cinch motor failures). I'm pretty sure this is what has happened to you too - i.e. the cinch motor has failed shut and won't disengage. I would be surprised if the OEM latch mechanism has failed, to be honest, and it sounds like the latch is actuating in the video.
There is an emergency cord that is supplied with the kit, usually tucked behind the towing eye, I assume you've tried pulling this? If the car is unlocked it should allow the latch to be opened, the 12v doesn't have to be dead (the conditions are the car is either unlocked OR the 12v is dead). From what I've been led to believe you have to pull really hard on this, possibly even using pliers for more leverage. I've heard of people snapping the cable in the process of unlatching it too.
If that all fails realistically you have limited options, I think. I have heard that you can partially disassemble the wheel arch trim to get access to the cinch motor to do something with it to release it, but I don't know the specifics on that I'm afraid.
If that doesn't work you will basically have to get Tesla to gain access to it, which will involve partially disassembling the car from underneath. Expect it to cost a couple of hundred if not more in labour, sadly.
I was in two minds about refitting my EVOffer frunk kit, I removed mine because I wasn't driving the car enough and being directly attached to the 12v battery the parasitic drain and constant slow discharge & recharge cycles was killing it. I'm on my 3rd one (under warranty, thankfully) and my car is not even 4 years old. Threads like this give me serious pause for thought about refitting it. I was lucky - it seems - that when my cinch motors failed I could still get into the frunk, it just wouldn't pull it closed.
For what it's worth, the cinch motors on these things are very vulnerable to moisture. I got one replaced under warranty the first time my frunk failed, and the second I had to pay for. I disassembled both failed motors and they were rusty inside. They are not sealed units, and the frunk bay is not sealed either. Moisture is a real problem generally in there.
There is an emergency cord that is supplied with the kit, usually tucked behind the towing eye, I assume you've tried pulling this? If the car is unlocked it should allow the latch to be opened, the 12v doesn't have to be dead (the conditions are the car is either unlocked OR the 12v is dead). From what I've been led to believe you have to pull really hard on this, possibly even using pliers for more leverage. I've heard of people snapping the cable in the process of unlatching it too.
If that all fails realistically you have limited options, I think. I have heard that you can partially disassemble the wheel arch trim to get access to the cinch motor to do something with it to release it, but I don't know the specifics on that I'm afraid.
If that doesn't work you will basically have to get Tesla to gain access to it, which will involve partially disassembling the car from underneath. Expect it to cost a couple of hundred if not more in labour, sadly.
I was in two minds about refitting my EVOffer frunk kit, I removed mine because I wasn't driving the car enough and being directly attached to the 12v battery the parasitic drain and constant slow discharge & recharge cycles was killing it. I'm on my 3rd one (under warranty, thankfully) and my car is not even 4 years old. Threads like this give me serious pause for thought about refitting it. I was lucky - it seems - that when my cinch motors failed I could still get into the frunk, it just wouldn't pull it closed.
I asked about this and was told that for whatever reason this firmware is only available for later revisions of the kit, basically facelift M3s onwards.
For what it's worth, the cinch motors on these things are very vulnerable to moisture. I got one replaced under warranty the first time my frunk failed, and the second I had to pay for. I disassembled both failed motors and they were rusty inside. They are not sealed units, and the frunk bay is not sealed either. Moisture is a real problem generally in there.
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EV Offer frunk not unlatching *SOLVED*
Just relaying my experience in case it helps someone else. I installed the EV Offer auto-frunk on my '21 MYLR5 last August, and it worked perfectly up until about a week ago. I went to open it to show off to some coworkers, and I heard the OEM latch actuate and saw the arms try to lift the...
teslamotorsclub.com
There is a video from Ray in there as well explaining the pliers thing.
Hey, I have an evoffer frunk. Mine used to do this when it's cold once in a while. The initial pop of the hood is just the normal mechanism and the spring. You installed a weaker spring with the evoffer kit. In the cold the spring weakens and sometimes doesn't have the force to pop the hood up to the point that the struts will engage.
Just pull up on the hood with something while you push open hood. Usually I can do it with my fingers but if it's all the way down maybe use something plastic wedged in the panel gap. Lift and push open at the same time.
I put the oem spring back in and it has not failed to pop since. It seems to close fine with the OEM spring for me so I am not sure why they make you install a weaker one.
Just pull up on the hood with something while you push open hood. Usually I can do it with my fingers but if it's all the way down maybe use something plastic wedged in the panel gap. Lift and push open at the same time.
I put the oem spring back in and it has not failed to pop since. It seems to close fine with the OEM spring for me so I am not sure why they make you install a weaker one.
The reason you can't open it after it cycles is because there is a secondary safety catch. Your hood has to pop past the safety catch with just the spring force before the struts engage. You have to pull while it cycles not after it's stopped. After it's stopped that cycle the safety latch will move back into position and hold it again.
really helpful thanks. FWIW, I didn't install this so I'm not familiar with the inner workings of it. If I'm desperate, I'll track down the guy who did over three years ago.
The only thing I'm concerned about is what to do if I can get it to open so as to prevent it from reoccuring or at least have a guaranteed way of getting in if it does fail again. I guess the bit of string might have to do but if there's something else I can do then please let me know. At this point, I think I'd be happy using the frunk manually again.
The only thing I'm concerned about is what to do if I can get it to open so as to prevent it from reoccuring or at least have a guaranteed way of getting in if it does fail again. I guess the bit of string might have to do but if there's something else I can do then please let me know. At this point, I think I'd be happy using the frunk manually again.
If someone else installed it, I assume they left you a box with your old parts inside. Just find the small silver spring with a loop on each end.
Open the hood. Pull the plastic cover off the area around the latch. Just put your fingers in the latch slot, grab the plastic, pull up. It pops off. Be careful not to pull the emergency escape button wire off.
You will now see the latch and a silver spring. Swap it for your oem spring. The OEM is very strong compared to the evoffer.
Open the hood. Pull the plastic cover off the area around the latch. Just put your fingers in the latch slot, grab the plastic, pull up. It pops off. Be careful not to pull the emergency escape button wire off.
You will now see the latch and a silver spring. Swap it for your oem spring. The OEM is very strong compared to the evoffer.
Dear all,
I have my EVoffer automatic frunk since 1.5 year and now it stopped working for me as well
Unfortunately the frunk does not pop up at all, all I can hear is the release sound, but nothing happens.
I am a bit afraid to pull the emergency latch to hard ... it feels as if it would snap easily.
What can I do to enter my frunk again ?
BR
Gawan
I have my EVoffer automatic frunk since 1.5 year and now it stopped working for me as well
Unfortunately the frunk does not pop up at all, all I can hear is the release sound, but nothing happens.
I am a bit afraid to pull the emergency latch to hard ... it feels as if it would snap easily.
What can I do to enter my frunk again ?
BR
Gawan
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