That is the end of the half-shaft. You could replace it, but a little surface rust on it is no reason to replace it.
It is, but its also unnecessary. If you don't like the look, there are center caps available(which would also have kept the rust from getting so bad!)
Yeah I just bought the car used I think the dealership left it out in the rain ALOT. Almost every torque wrench I see says not to use it for lugnuts. How am I supposed to know I'm using 129lb ft torque?
They are saying to not use the torque wrench to >remove< lug nuts. Using a torque wrench to remove nuts/bolts is said to cause the torque wrench to go out of calibration. Instead, use a breaker bar or standard lug wrench for removal.
You don't use a torque wrench to loosen nuts. That'd be nutty.
Isn't it just cheaper to spend the $25 to $50 to have a place rotate them? Usually I wanna diy to save money but buying a breaker bar, torque wrench, socket drive, low profile jack and jack pads seems to be 3-5 years of paying for a place to do it ?
Some places will rotate tires for free, especially if you bought the tires there. Rotating tires with a single set of tires and jack is very hard, too.
Not all of the places will torque the lugs to the proper value. Or use a torque wrench at all. Three or four ooga doogas instead. I have had not one but two bad experiences. I trust no one.
Totally agree that they don't torque the lugs properly. I was at BJs(think Costco for the Northeast), and heard someone ugga-dugga a lug nut on for a literal five second count AFTER it tightened.
Yes, it's cheaper to have someone do it for you, even Tesla will send Mobile Rangers to you to do it, for a fairly reasonable price. I like to do it, not to save money, but it's good to know how to do it, and gives you a chance to inspect your tires/wheels for damage, check your brake pad depth, and rotor faces, lube the brake pins, and look over the rest of what you can see, including brake lines, suspension bits, undertray dirt, etc.
