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Juicebox charger users? Level 2 charger, 40 or 32 amp. Plus kilowatt hour tracking

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Agreed. Just pointing out that it's not as simple as pushing on the port.
Are you following where this came from, though? Pressing the port is just as simple as pressing the button.
You are welcome to add any other unrelated caveats and steps to the process that you like: You have to be awake. The car has to be awake. You have to be near enough to the car to reach it. Etc.
The point, though, was strictly a comparison about whether it is added levels of difficulty opening the door with a J1772 handle instead of a Tesla (TM) handle, and that's basically not much. Some people still seem to have this thing in their heads that they have to go sit inside the car and bring up the charging controls on the touch screen to open the port door, and I'm pointing out that's generally not true.
 
Agreed that that's not true. It is a minor pain to use the adapter and have to pull both out each time, then stow the adapter so I can plug the J1772 back into its holster. First-world problem to be sure, though. Also a minor thing that a random passer-by can unplug your cable when using J1772 (as the adapter locks to the car, not the plug), which they cannot do with a locked Tesla cable.
 
Using any non-Tesla EVSE has some minor drawbacks because you need Tesla's J1772 adapter and the button on the plug's handle won't open the Tesla's charge port door.
Why do people continue to keep mentioning this? For about the last 3.5 to 4 years, all cars that Tesla has made let you just touch the port door with your finger, and it will pop open.

I did specifically say that it's a minor drawback.

Pressing the port is just as simple as pressing the button.

Not necessarily. Pressing the button can be done less awkwardly one-handed (say, if you've got something in your other hand). Also, the port may be covered in grime, whereas the button on the handle is more likely to be clean, particularly if it's in a garage.

Like I said, these are minor points.

Zaxxon said:
It is a minor pain to use the adapter and have to pull both out each time, then stow the adapter so I can plug the J1772 back into its holster. First-world problem to be sure, though. Also a minor thing that a random passer-by can unplug your cable when using J1772 (as the adapter locks to the car, not the plug), which they cannot do with a locked Tesla cable.

A small padlock and second adapter may be able to help with both of these issues. Many J1772 handles can be fitted with locks that can theoretically keep the handle from being removed. On my Clipper Creek, there's still enough play in the latch/button to interrupt current, which enables the combination to work much like a Tesla handle for removing the combination J1772/adapter from the car. Unfortunately, with mine, pressing hard enough on the button also enables the J1772 handle and J1772/Tesla adapter to separate, so as an anti-theft device or to prevent neighborhood pranksters from stopping your car from charging if the EVSE is mounted outside, it's pretty useless.

In terms of stowing the handle, you can either replace your EVSE's J1772 holster with a Tesla holster; or you can use an adapter, like this one I designed.

I also often have to wake up the car in one way or another to unplug the EVSE, but I don't know if the same would be true with Tesla's EVSE.

Going back to this point, I tried charging my car on 120v using the Tesla portable EVSE the other night, and I found that the same problem exists with it -- after charging was complete and the car had gone to sleep, I couldn't remove the plug by pressing the button; I had to wake up the car to unplug it.
 
Yes, but again, we're talking about minor annoyances. I count 'purchase small padlock, attach to plug each time I use a public station' as a minor annoyance.

I wasn't thinking of a public station; I was thinking of a home EVSE. Mounted indoors, the only benefit would be a slightly easier unplugging option, since you could do it one-handed without contorting your hand to both work the button and hold both the J1772 handle and J1772/Tesla adapter. Mounted outdoors, it might make it a little harder for neighborhood pranksters to unplug you -- but see my comments about how the padlock may not really be effective for that.
 
I'm using my standard juicebox (non pro) with my Model 3, had it before to use with my Volt. When I got it I cheaped out and didn't get the pro with the monitoring, but I don't know if I'd bother much anyway.

Using the adapter is a minor annoyance, but I don't even think about it anymore. I have it on a 50 amp breaker, but usually just leave it at 30 amp charging for longevity as that is more than adequate for overnight charging, but having the ability to dial it up to 40 amps and get over 30 miles/hour is nice!
 
multi point question. I have a nema outlet and I’m using the tesla mobile charger. Works great.

I have a 40amp breaker on my panel.

I’m looking at the juicebox charger to charge the car. I like the juicebox because of the app. It tracks electricity used per charge which is ideal for tracking my charging and paying for my electricity.

(If anyone has a different charger they recommended with electricity tracking let me know).

Now with the 40 amp breaker on my panel. Should I get the 40amp juicebox or the 32amp juicebox charger?

If you got the 40 Amp Juice Box you need a 50 Amp breaker and #6 AWG wire to be safe to the Nema outlet.
If you use a Tesla WC you can get 48 Amps from the WC which charges at 44mi/hr which is the most you can get for a Model 3 LR. Then you can just use TeslaFi to get your charging graphs which will show you how much each charge cost, but TeslaFi costs $5 a month.
 
I just got the JuiceBox Pro 40. I already have 50amp breaker, #6 AWG cable to NEMA 14-50 outlet in the garage. My Model 3 shows 32 Amp as the max possible charging speed. I can lower that but would like to see if it can indeed go upto 40 Amp but find no way to do so. I also installed the app on the phone and specified 40 amp in the vehicle profile. What am I doing wrong and should be doing to get max 40 amp with this setup?

For daily use, I am planning to use 30-32 amp for overnight recharge when speed is not a factor but would like to get the settings right to use it when needed.
 
If you have a standard or mid range Model 3, then 32A is the maximum possible. The long range Model 3 has a limit of 48A, but is normally constrained by the 32A limit of the mobile connector (which you aren't using here.) So, if there's no constraint on the JuiceBox, you probably do not have a long range version of Model 3.

Onboard Charger