Update! My Koni Special Actives are getting swapped for same but with other settings which should be bringing more comfort and less bouncing.
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Koni - Special Active (Red - Formerly FSD) and Sports (Yellow) - Coming Soon for Model 3 and Y
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I'm not sure I understand? Is it a revised Koni special active shock? I don't think there are any adjusters on the special active series (unlike the sports which are adjustable for rebound).
superflyrolla
Member
ManMachine
Member
I saw the Motortrend review of the new Tesla model 3 Highland use frequency selective dampers.
This is will surely make its way to Y. Looks like the changes have improved the 3. Probably in combination with softer springs. I wonder if Tesla further worked with Koni to make modifications to the Special Active dampgers, or use them as they are?
This is will surely make its way to Y. Looks like the changes have improved the 3. Probably in combination with softer springs. I wonder if Tesla further worked with Koni to make modifications to the Special Active dampgers, or use them as they are?
Have you seen this review? Pretty well done and covers most of the things I wanted to know 
Now, does anyone know if the sports are stock length or shortened body front and rear? Shorter body would be good for use with a lowering spring like an Eibach kit.
My 2021 performance sat evenly front to rear on OEM shocks and Eiback 3 performance pro-kit. Wonder if the spring perches are OEM height on the front?
Now, does anyone know if the sports are stock length or shortened body front and rear? Shorter body would be good for use with a lowering spring like an Eibach kit.
My 2021 performance sat evenly front to rear on OEM shocks and Eiback 3 performance pro-kit. Wonder if the spring perches are OEM height on the front?
LightSaber
Member
I switched from:
• 2021 Model 3 Performance > 2022 Long Range > Koni Special Active (Suspension)
• 20” Uberturbine with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S > 18” Aero V2 with Michelin Primacy MXM4 (Wheel/Tire)
Results: Compression is slightly softer (~20%) while rebound is much faster (~50%) with significantly less body roll. Each wheel feels more balanced.
They’re currently being used with stock long range AWD springs. I would say for those hoping to get a comfortable ride to look elsewhere. Even with my abnormally over-dampened and mismatched stock shock absorbers these are only a mild-moderate improvement in ride quality/comfort despite being at stock ride height with more suspension traveling distance. If I had used 10mm lower performance springs I reckon it will be even less comfortable and require trimming the rubber stop.
Although it can be a great daily driver, the variability in comfort annoys me. Although it definitely reacts faster than stock, those with a keen eye will notice some sluggishness in the delayed onset of how the gas valves opens and closes and hence for very spirited driving or track use these will have you wanting more.
Based on my experience these won’t do comfort justice as compared to Mountain Pass Performance Comfort Coilovers or Unplugged Performance Luxury Coil-overs. Those aforementioned will provide better overall dampening. These depend more road conditions and how the frequencies are picked up. Some road imperfections will do well while others will have you guessing because It’s not always congruent.
The FSD technology may be more comfortable on the 2024 Model 3 Refresh which has improvements in geometric mounting points and softer rubber bushings, but if one had hopes of having uninterrupted conversations with the family over long trips or to Uber/Lyft part time I advise looking elsewhere unless softer springs are used. Even then its a wonder whether the two being used in conjunction can be considered comfortable. I believe the stocks are 10-12K spring rates. As for tire pressure I tried riding at 42 PSI which was too firm while 40 PSI seems to fair slightly better without affecting how the valves work.
Does anyone know where I can find softer springs to pair with the Koni’s that isn’t used in an already made coilover setup like those aforementioned?
Today I’m going to try retorquing the front strut (78.2 ft-lb) and rear shock (84.8 ft-lb) on ramps instead of jacking one side at a time to see whether that helps additionally for ride comfort otherwise getting softer springs are the only way I can see myself potentially keeping these long term.
In conclusion these may work better for others while for me on Los Angeles roads it’s a no-go. Perhaps I have a terrible stiff chassis and your milage may vary. My car has 50k miles on it with new front lower control arms. All suspension parts excluding sway bar end link and upper control arm to knuckle was torqued at ride height.
Are there any cons to using blue threadlocker on control arm bolt/nuts that mate with the knuckle via 22mm nut?
Last I checked these joints are not suppose to pivot however I do recall threadlocker has the ability to obscure torque readings so maybe this is where the extra firmness could be coming from?
• 2021 Model 3 Performance > 2022 Long Range > Koni Special Active (Suspension)
• 20” Uberturbine with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S > 18” Aero V2 with Michelin Primacy MXM4 (Wheel/Tire)
Results: Compression is slightly softer (~20%) while rebound is much faster (~50%) with significantly less body roll. Each wheel feels more balanced.
They’re currently being used with stock long range AWD springs. I would say for those hoping to get a comfortable ride to look elsewhere. Even with my abnormally over-dampened and mismatched stock shock absorbers these are only a mild-moderate improvement in ride quality/comfort despite being at stock ride height with more suspension traveling distance. If I had used 10mm lower performance springs I reckon it will be even less comfortable and require trimming the rubber stop.
Although it can be a great daily driver, the variability in comfort annoys me. Although it definitely reacts faster than stock, those with a keen eye will notice some sluggishness in the delayed onset of how the gas valves opens and closes and hence for very spirited driving or track use these will have you wanting more.
Based on my experience these won’t do comfort justice as compared to Mountain Pass Performance Comfort Coilovers or Unplugged Performance Luxury Coil-overs. Those aforementioned will provide better overall dampening. These depend more road conditions and how the frequencies are picked up. Some road imperfections will do well while others will have you guessing because It’s not always congruent.
The FSD technology may be more comfortable on the 2024 Model 3 Refresh which has improvements in geometric mounting points and softer rubber bushings, but if one had hopes of having uninterrupted conversations with the family over long trips or to Uber/Lyft part time I advise looking elsewhere unless softer springs are used. Even then its a wonder whether the two being used in conjunction can be considered comfortable. I believe the stocks are 10-12K spring rates. As for tire pressure I tried riding at 42 PSI which was too firm while 40 PSI seems to fair slightly better without affecting how the valves work.
Does anyone know where I can find softer springs to pair with the Koni’s that isn’t used in an already made coilover setup like those aforementioned?
Today I’m going to try retorquing the front strut (78.2 ft-lb) and rear shock (84.8 ft-lb) on ramps instead of jacking one side at a time to see whether that helps additionally for ride comfort otherwise getting softer springs are the only way I can see myself potentially keeping these long term.
In conclusion these may work better for others while for me on Los Angeles roads it’s a no-go. Perhaps I have a terrible stiff chassis and your milage may vary. My car has 50k miles on it with new front lower control arms. All suspension parts excluding sway bar end link and upper control arm to knuckle was torqued at ride height.
Are there any cons to using blue threadlocker on control arm bolt/nuts that mate with the knuckle via 22mm nut?
Last I checked these joints are not suppose to pivot however I do recall threadlocker has the ability to obscure torque readings so maybe this is where the extra firmness could be coming from?
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Very detailed, but is this a Model Y LR or a model 3? I ask because you posted this on a Model Y forum, but the tire size is that of a Model 3.
LightSaber
Member
Sorry I forgot this was the Model Y section.
They were installed on a Model 3 that had the stiff performance suspension (stock) that was switched for a 2022 stock long range suspension. I reused the springs from the long range variant for more suspension travel for the piston damper.
Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying. I’ve been contemplating getting these for my MY20 MYLR and still go back and forth on whether or not it would be worth it. I’m leaning towards yes at this point.
Sounds like I should stick to MPP or UP for my 3 then. Have you tried Tien?
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OxBrew
Active Member
Will Koni Yellows give me the softer ride over harsh bumps I'm looking for? I found a set for about $800.
For our 9/2021 build YLR (old crappy suspension) we just want stock height replacement dampers that don't rattle our teeth on harsh bumps. That's the only change we want, everything else is fine.
I don't want to spend $1500 to $3000 for MPP or anyone else "luxury comfort" or whatever.
I've been following this thread, and read every other thread about this, and my best idea right now is to get Koni Yellows so I can soften the ride a little more than the Reds might do. I'd be ok even with a little more body roll sometimes, we are never going to a track or even pushing any limits on the street. We drive this car like an appliance. I want to get as close as possible to the ride in our 2004 Forester. Seriously, think 2005 Camry or a minivan, that's how we use this car.
Koni Yellows, a click or 2 on the softer side, easy peasy, right?
For our 9/2021 build YLR (old crappy suspension) we just want stock height replacement dampers that don't rattle our teeth on harsh bumps. That's the only change we want, everything else is fine.
I don't want to spend $1500 to $3000 for MPP or anyone else "luxury comfort" or whatever.
I've been following this thread, and read every other thread about this, and my best idea right now is to get Koni Yellows so I can soften the ride a little more than the Reds might do. I'd be ok even with a little more body roll sometimes, we are never going to a track or even pushing any limits on the street. We drive this car like an appliance. I want to get as close as possible to the ride in our 2004 Forester. Seriously, think 2005 Camry or a minivan, that's how we use this car.
Koni Yellows, a click or 2 on the softer side, easy peasy, right?
Koni Yellows come set on the softest setting from the factory. I THINK he technology was originally meant as a way to compensate for shock wear over time. Indeed, I think Koni recommends that setting. While my experience with the Yellows on another car is that they offer more control, they aren't exactly soft (still the best "non-coilover" in my limited experience for a lot of applications).
Your best bet might be the factory 2023 suspension which is notably softer. The best part is you can try before you buy...just go test drive one of the new ones. Drive it on the same route with your current car before or after for an immediate back-to-back comparison.
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And if you want a REAL test drive...just rent a 2023 Model Y on Turo for a day. Could be the best $70 or $80 you could spend ahead of time.
Where did you get the Koni Reds from ?? For some reasen, there seems to be a "softer" version of the Koni Special active. This German site, claims to sell these. I wonder how they differ compared to "stock" koni SA ??
Also they recommend these springs, for a even softer ride. Maybe they could be something for you ?
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LightSaber
Member
@Silverline
The guys at Reifen Reber looks like they know what they’re doing if they’re recommending Meyle Upper Control Arm, KW Dome Bearings, and softer Koni variant. I don’t know about their comfort springs though.. lowering by 40mm is a bit much for those who don’t care to have their car significantly lowered. The comfort must be coming from it’s material composition.
I cannot give conclusive thoughts on how the baseline Special Active performs as I’ve been running into an issue where my suspension keeps changing. I can say though that it’s still stiff for my taste. Sacrificing some handling for comfort (like what they did) in my opinion is almost a necessity. If I can get this suspension to sit properly I may reach out to them for the softer variant as I do like how the FSD performs in comparison to other comfort specific coilover setups.
To be more specific about the problem, I installed the Koni with stock OEM springs and torqued things as instructed by Tesla Service Manual
Suspension - Front (Check Torque)
Suspension - Rear (Check Torque)
At first it wasn’t performing well. @SLOspeed made me realize that the bump stop needed to be trimmed as there was not enough length for the damper’s piston rod to move up-down. Although it made a difference, my ride was still very uncomfortable although slightly better than stock.
To attempt to correct this problem I tried:
• Top mount locknut on all Koni shock absorbers with the rod held in place by an 5mm allen wrench (Torque Check)
• Front upper control arm, stabilizer link, outer tie rod, (2) lower control arms (Torque Check @ full droop)
• Front strut > lower control arm (lateral link) (Torque Check @ ride height [423mm])
• Rear shock > lower aft link, lower aft link,(4) control arms (Torque Check @ ride height [378mm])
• Tesla Service Center’s Wheel Alignment
It worked for a while until I drove around Los Angeles and ran into some potholes in which immediately changed the suspension.
Apparently the manufacture’s (TESLA) torque value for the suspension bolts for the strut (78.2 ft-lb) and shock (84.8 ft-lb) should be taken with a grain of salt when using KONI dampers. Although their mounting points are the same, the dimension and material may require more torque to properly mate with the bushings. In my case the front lower control arm (lateral link) bushing that mates with the Koni damper (strut) unbinds at stock torque value. At first I took my torque wrench’s 4% tolerance into consideration and torqued it from 78.2 to 81.328 (78.2 + 3.128 [4%]) and even that fell through in time so I settled on 83.2 ft lbs. Essentially adding 5 ft lbs to the front and rear so it wouldn’t untwist/unbind.
For those who wish not deal with the same headaches, I advise trimming the lower part of their front bump stop by 20-25mm and rear by 25-30mm as well as paying close attention to torquing 5-7.5 more ft lbs at ride height (432mm front and 378mm rear).
I have an appointment with Tesla Service Center soon for a complete front and rear suspension torque check where the Hub Adapter and Underhoist Stand is used to simulate ride height. If my ride is still uncomfortable afterwards I am most likely reaching out to Reifen Reber for the comfort variant of the Special Active and using that with softer OEM Springs (E1D) instead of the E3 DM (Long Range) I am currently using.
The guys at Reifen Reber looks like they know what they’re doing if they’re recommending Meyle Upper Control Arm, KW Dome Bearings, and softer Koni variant. I don’t know about their comfort springs though.. lowering by 40mm is a bit much for those who don’t care to have their car significantly lowered. The comfort must be coming from it’s material composition.
I cannot give conclusive thoughts on how the baseline Special Active performs as I’ve been running into an issue where my suspension keeps changing. I can say though that it’s still stiff for my taste. Sacrificing some handling for comfort (like what they did) in my opinion is almost a necessity. If I can get this suspension to sit properly I may reach out to them for the softer variant as I do like how the FSD performs in comparison to other comfort specific coilover setups.
To be more specific about the problem, I installed the Koni with stock OEM springs and torqued things as instructed by Tesla Service Manual
Suspension - Front (Check Torque)
Suspension - Rear (Check Torque)
At first it wasn’t performing well. @SLOspeed made me realize that the bump stop needed to be trimmed as there was not enough length for the damper’s piston rod to move up-down. Although it made a difference, my ride was still very uncomfortable although slightly better than stock.
To attempt to correct this problem I tried:
• Top mount locknut on all Koni shock absorbers with the rod held in place by an 5mm allen wrench (Torque Check)
• Front upper control arm, stabilizer link, outer tie rod, (2) lower control arms (Torque Check @ full droop)
• Front strut > lower control arm (lateral link) (Torque Check @ ride height [423mm])
• Rear shock > lower aft link, lower aft link,(4) control arms (Torque Check @ ride height [378mm])
• Tesla Service Center’s Wheel Alignment
It worked for a while until I drove around Los Angeles and ran into some potholes in which immediately changed the suspension.
Apparently the manufacture’s (TESLA) torque value for the suspension bolts for the strut (78.2 ft-lb) and shock (84.8 ft-lb) should be taken with a grain of salt when using KONI dampers. Although their mounting points are the same, the dimension and material may require more torque to properly mate with the bushings. In my case the front lower control arm (lateral link) bushing that mates with the Koni damper (strut) unbinds at stock torque value. At first I took my torque wrench’s 4% tolerance into consideration and torqued it from 78.2 to 81.328 (78.2 + 3.128 [4%]) and even that fell through in time so I settled on 83.2 ft lbs. Essentially adding 5 ft lbs to the front and rear so it wouldn’t untwist/unbind.
For those who wish not deal with the same headaches, I advise trimming the lower part of their front bump stop by 20-25mm and rear by 25-30mm as well as paying close attention to torquing 5-7.5 more ft lbs at ride height (432mm front and 378mm rear).
I have an appointment with Tesla Service Center soon for a complete front and rear suspension torque check where the Hub Adapter and Underhoist Stand is used to simulate ride height. If my ride is still uncomfortable afterwards I am most likely reaching out to Reifen Reber for the comfort variant of the Special Active and using that with softer OEM Springs (E1D) instead of the E3 DM (Long Range) I am currently using.
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Wow you have been through a lot 
Do you think it's necessary to cut the bump stops , even going with stock spring? I have a LR from 2022
Do you think it's necessary to cut the bump stops , even going with stock spring? I have a LR from 2022
LightSaber
Member
It could be different for you, but with my 2022 long range springs (E3 DM) the usable gap for the suspension to travel before hitting the bump stop looks as though I was using lowering springs..Wow you have been through a lot
Do you think it's necessary to cut the bump stops , even going with stock spring? I have a LR from 2022
These springs are equipped on a 2021 Model 3 Performance so your mileage may vary. I don’t think our suspension differs in geometric mounting points compared to the 2024 ‘Highland’ so I reckon the results will be the same.
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