LightSaber
Member
Update: Turns out there was nothing wrong with the Koni Special Actives this entire time!
My rear subframe had a broken bushing that connects to the spring arm:
Broken
Not Broken
Despite going to multiple places for the following:
4 Complete Diagnostics
4 Suspension Changes
8 4-Wheel Alignments
4 New Control Arms
4 New Stabilizer Links
4 New Wheels and Tires
2 Front/Rear Torque Check
∞ Replacement Bolts/Nuts (for entire suspension)
None of the shops could locate the problem and at some point thought I was paranoid. It wasn’t until I went to a trusted local shop that started doing Tesla work did they figure out the problem. The mechanic also said that the rubber bushings on the front and rear stabilizer bars (sway bar) were glued during factory production so there is a constant preload being applied to the suspension when going in a straight line over bumps/dips. Thanks to @SLOspeed over from this thread I advise some of you to trim your bump stops in half and either get a new sway bar (perhaps thicker) with rubber or polyurethane bushings and apply grease around them during the install. I recommend Super Lube Synthetic Grease which has Syncolon®, a form of PTFE (Teflon) for friction/drying resistance. If you decide to stick with the OEM sway bar and mainly want to correct this problem, the bonded rubber can be removed with a utility knife and sandpaper (150 grit > 1000). The replacement bushing part number is:
Strut (Front):
Shock Absorber (Rear):
Moral of the story is learn something, try to know your car, the basic warranty ended at 50,000 miles, my car has 54,000 miles. Be your own warranty! Aside from people who like to walk, run, bike, public transport, our main method of traveling is by car or plane so for your own safety pay attention to every component within the suspension and don’t trust places like PepBoys, Firestone, or even Tesla Service Center to be observant with your
.
Even after I paid them $200 × 2 for suspension torque checks I learned to do it myself because I was out of ideas of why my suspension was so bumpy and found multiple bolts to be under-torqued specifically the subframe ones that are suppose to be at 95.9 lbs-ft and 121.7 lbs-ft.
Not even mentioning the 4 rear control arms which weren’t even corrected or correctly torqued at ride height. We know dealerships make a good amount of money from servicing but this is really no excuse. I will never go to them again.
For those wondering how I solved the problem. Let’s just say I was quoted $1500+ for a new rear subframe and another $1500+ for the installation. They even tried to charge me $155 for another Lower AFT Link (1044451-00-F) that connects to the bushing in question and advised that I should buy two just in case whatever bump that initially broke the bushing could have bent the metal tray/spring arm (Lower AFT Link) on the other side as well, and another $275 for wheel alignment. Do not that I was in no way compensated for their previous negligence.
Finally.. the Koni’s are great. The handling is amazing, the chassis has way less vibrations, the compression and rebound is leaps beyond the stock ones I had previously.. However to prevent Tesla Service Center from blaming my aftermarket dampers I had to switch to a new 2023 Model 3 Performance stock suspension so at this point I am too tired to keep paying a few hundred dollars at a time to switch things back and forth.
I’ve decided to go with either Öhlins or FPX’s from Redwood Motorsports with Swift Grand Touring springs later when I can afford it or make the grandiose decision of going air with OnAir or AirLift Performance. Because of that I am letting my Koni Special Actives go for a fraction of the price ($500). One man’s trash experience can hopefully be another man’s treasured lesson and prevention.
My rear subframe had a broken bushing that connects to the spring arm:
Broken
Not Broken
Despite going to multiple places for the following:
4 Complete Diagnostics
4 Suspension Changes
8 4-Wheel Alignments
4 New Control Arms
4 New Stabilizer Links
4 New Wheels and Tires
2 Front/Rear Torque Check
∞ Replacement Bolts/Nuts (for entire suspension)
None of the shops could locate the problem and at some point thought I was paranoid. It wasn’t until I went to a trusted local shop that started doing Tesla work did they figure out the problem. The mechanic also said that the rubber bushings on the front and rear stabilizer bars (sway bar) were glued during factory production so there is a constant preload being applied to the suspension when going in a straight line over bumps/dips. Thanks to @SLOspeed over from this thread I advise some of you to trim your bump stops in half and either get a new sway bar (perhaps thicker) with rubber or polyurethane bushings and apply grease around them during the install. I recommend Super Lube Synthetic Grease which has Syncolon®, a form of PTFE (Teflon) for friction/drying resistance. If you decide to stick with the OEM sway bar and mainly want to correct this problem, the bonded rubber can be removed with a utility knife and sandpaper (150 grit > 1000). The replacement bushing part number is:
- 1111754-00-B (Front)
- 1044487-00-B (Rear)
Strut (Front):
Shock Absorber (Rear):
Moral of the story is learn something, try to know your car, the basic warranty ended at 50,000 miles, my car has 54,000 miles. Be your own warranty! Aside from people who like to walk, run, bike, public transport, our main method of traveling is by car or plane so for your own safety pay attention to every component within the suspension and don’t trust places like PepBoys, Firestone, or even Tesla Service Center to be observant with your
.Even after I paid them $200 × 2 for suspension torque checks I learned to do it myself because I was out of ideas of why my suspension was so bumpy and found multiple bolts to be under-torqued specifically the subframe ones that are suppose to be at 95.9 lbs-ft and 121.7 lbs-ft.
Not even mentioning the 4 rear control arms which weren’t even corrected or correctly torqued at ride height. We know dealerships make a good amount of money from servicing but this is really no excuse. I will never go to them again.
For those wondering how I solved the problem. Let’s just say I was quoted $1500+ for a new rear subframe and another $1500+ for the installation. They even tried to charge me $155 for another Lower AFT Link (1044451-00-F) that connects to the bushing in question and advised that I should buy two just in case whatever bump that initially broke the bushing could have bent the metal tray/spring arm (Lower AFT Link) on the other side as well, and another $275 for wheel alignment. Do not that I was in no way compensated for their previous negligence.
Finally.. the Koni’s are great. The handling is amazing, the chassis has way less vibrations, the compression and rebound is leaps beyond the stock ones I had previously.. However to prevent Tesla Service Center from blaming my aftermarket dampers I had to switch to a new 2023 Model 3 Performance stock suspension so at this point I am too tired to keep paying a few hundred dollars at a time to switch things back and forth.
I’ve decided to go with either Öhlins or FPX’s from Redwood Motorsports with Swift Grand Touring springs later when I can afford it or make the grandiose decision of going air with OnAir or AirLift Performance. Because of that I am letting my Koni Special Actives go for a fraction of the price ($500). One man’s trash experience can hopefully be another man’s treasured lesson and prevention.
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