Thanks! Yeah, super surprised how quiet and smooth the Toyos are. I've had Duratracs, KO2s, and Ridge Grapplers on my previous rigs (RGs being the quietest) and I do like how these sound and feel in the first 20 miles. I should be able to put about 500 miles on them in the next week, so we'll see how they do!
Is 245/55/19 the largest diameter (29.6") tire you can have without hitting the front knuckle regardless of whether it's lifted or not? Also, does that tire size work with the OE Gemini wheels and their +45 offset vs the OZ Rally's that look to be +38 offset?
Thanks P3D-R for the offer. My apologies for not responding earlier.. It's making a TON of noise at all times right now. Loud creaking/squeaking from both sides in the front, and rattles/clunking when going over even small bumps. I'm in contact with UP and have one last appointment at a local exotic shop recommended by them next Wednesday. If it's not resolved this week, the plan is to move over to MPP coilovers and lift kit. I've told UP that I expect a full refund, but am hearing through the Interwebs that they have refused refunds to others.
i have.. it does look a little odd IMO but i plan on keeping it that way till the stock tires are done... its still functional (10 inches of snow yesterday here).. i have the geminis btw
Do you happen to have any pictures of how it looks? My car is getting delivered in a week with the geminis so would be great to see it
FYI, I have a lift kit I don't need so hmu if you make the shift. We ended up bagging our Y with some custom UAS stuff and now I have the lift kit sitting unopened on my office shelves. In regards to UP, the way that the upper spring perch references the factory upper mount and the way the rear lower spring perch sits on the lower spring arm with a small O ring separating contact between metal, are indicators of potential noise. If these two small aspects of their kit are revised I don't see why it cannot be noise free. Other areas to check are the locking collars for the lower brackets on both the front and rear dampers. In the rear, the single locking collar can come loose so I put a drop of blue loctite to mitigate the chances of that. The independent ride height and spring preload of the UP setup is not "idiot" proof, whereas the KW/MPP setup IS. That's the beauty of most European coilvoers. They are fixed length threaded dampers so height adjustment and spring preload all come from the same perch. In reality, that's how it should be. Damper lengths should be fixed and I can only assume that UP indicates that in their instructions or at least I hope so. They must be telling people how long the dampers should be like Redwood does with their Ohlins kits. With that said, you would set front and rear dampers to the recommended length. Then all height adjustments are done at the spring perch. Add preload to raise the vehicle and reduce preload to lower the vehicle. Considering you're raising your car I cannot imagine why you would have any spring clunking. My only thought is the sway bar link might have some slop at the damper attachment point or the uppermount is not tightened down to the shock shaft. One quick way to isolate the sway bar from the equation is to completely disconnect the sway bar endlinks. If it was my shop, that's what I would do first, aside from double checking all the locking collars. Remove the endlinks, takes 10mins, go for a drive, see if the front and noise disappears. If it doesn't disappear then I'd move to the next option which is the uppermount.
You have to contend with axles and CV's as well. You're talking about a lot of custom work to get it beyond those limits. You also want to make sure the vehicle will remain safe to drive so tread lightly and beware of the rabbit hole you might send yourself down.
The problem is the front upper knuckle limiting tire/wheel size, the five ways to ago about it are:
