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I think all metrics in Model S/X are MPH and are calculated to KMH for the UI only.Yep EU cars also go to MPH in IC when Emmc is toast.
This seems shocking. In this day and age you would think all calculations would be done in MKS.I think all metrics in Model S/X are MPH and are calculated to KMH for the UI only.
Notice how the Trip Meter doesn’t gradually counts 0,1km (100m) while driving.
Rather offtopic, but it does explain why the IC shows MPH and not KMH.This seems shocking. In this day and age you would think all calculations would be done in MKS.
Add me to the list of failed MCUs. 2013 Model S, bought from Tesla a year ago so luckily still under warranty. Driving home last night the display screen froze, then showed the Tesla logo, then totally blacked out. Would not reset. Climate will not turn off from the app, nor will anything MCU-related work from the app. Just lock/unlock the car. Drove it to the SC tonight, left the key, and sent them a note. Hopefully it won't take long.
Thanks for the offer, you are providing a great service to people.If they are slow you can always contact us PM for more details. I'm @TonyT by the way, just using our new name.
Correct. The new one will likely last much longer since they are taking some steps. Be sure to contact us as soon as you seen issues over the next decade if you keep your car long.Thanks for the offer, you are providing a great service to people.
I did stop by the SC this morning, and sure enough the MCU is fried, luckily I am still under warranty, so will be covered. But for those out of warranty, it makes sense to go to a third party for the repair.
I am sure this issue will arise again with whatever they put in to replace my failed unit, because they aren't addressing the underlying issue.
Does anyone know how to upgrade the connection from 3 G to LTE?
Be aware, you need an LTE sim card with the board. The ones I saw on eBay were being sold without the sim card. Might be someone here at TMC that is parting out
Guys, can't Tony help with the LTE upgrade?
I was successful in removing my eMMC using Tony's guide. He has since downloaded and upgraded my chip, the board is on its way back to me for install.
The job is pretty straight forward. My car is quite a bit older than most, a 2012 Signature, so here are a few things I'll add:
These two pictures show the two problems I had. First, the electrical connector circled was stuck and ended up being very difficult to remove. Eventually, I got it disconnected it but broke the snap that firmly holds it in place. We'll see if everything works ok without replacing the connector.
The second problem was a real PITA. The bracket I have circled is used to hold the two halves of the MCU together with two screws per bracket. Unfortunately, this bracket broke. It has a nut on the back of the bracket that the screw threads into. As I was unthreading the screw, the nut broke free and the screw just turned freely, stuck. I ended up having to drill out the screw to get the MCU completely apart.
The takeaway is be careful when unscrewing the MCU. There are 12 screws and most of mine were quite stuck and difficult to turn. They would squeal, not wanting to thread out easily. One broke, fortunately none others. I'm looking into replacing the bracket. If not, I can probably get away with reassembling without one screw.
Also, tape the aluminum trim! I thought the suggestion applied to the carbon/wood trim but really it applies mostly to the aluminum edging. I scratched the dashboard's aluminum trim when pulling out the MCU because it sits awkwardly while you're getting it unplugged.