Lowering the Model 3

[mpt]

I am getting 20 mm hub concentric on the rear,(2) = $130.99 and 10 mm hub concentric (2) $99.99 for the fronts. The fronts will not have studs built in because of the thickness so I have a few options. When I get it worked out I will report back.

I'm sure you're got this but, just to confirm, they need to be both hub and wheel centric, most are and, without wanting to sound overly cautious, make sure they confirm that the 10mm of thread they eat from the lugs leaves enough to provide sufficient strength - it's a heavy car that turns quickly and expects the wheel nuts to be torqued pretty high. If you haven't run those questions by them.

 

[mpt]

I've compiled a walk around for Stock, Unplugged and TSportline to give a better impression of the differences.

 

[Mod Y Guy]

I've compiled a walk around for Stock, Unplugged and TSportline to give a better impression of the differences.

Much appreciated mpt! Definitely loving the stance with the TSportline springs and 15mm spacers!

Hey, how long did it take for your spacers to arrive after placing the order?

Thanks!

 

[mpt]

@DK21 The spacer order arrived in less than a week, which I thought was pretty quick!

 

[Mod Y Guy]

@DK21 The spacer order arrived in less than a week, which I thought was pretty quick!

Super quick! I look forward to getting my order soon. Can't wait to give "Midnight Lightning" the stance she deserves with the TSportline springs and BLOX Sport spacers.

 

[Nikola M3]

I'm sure you're got this but, just to confirm, they need to be both hub and wheel centric, most are and, without wanting to sound overly cautious, make sure they confirm that the 10mm of thread they eat from the lugs leaves enough to provide sufficient strength - it's a heavy car that turns quickly and expects the wheel nuts to be torqued pretty high. If you haven't run those questions by them.

Yes, the only option I will consider for spacers over 3mm is hub and wheel centric.

To get a 10 mm spacer for the front is becoming an issue. The hub protrudes 8.4 mm so it does not leave enough “meat” in the spacer for the wheel side hub protrusion on the spacer. Add to the problem is with the design of the 18” stock wheel. The 84 mm center bore in the wheel is 90mm for the first 3 mm deep. A 3 mm spacer is the thickest that can be used so the wheel hub will go through the spacer and into the wheel about 2.4 mm.

A unique profile can be made onto a 10 mm spacer using the 3 mm recess in the wheel to add “meat” to the spacer in that critical area.

If using a 10 mm spacer then the wheel studs will not be long enough. The fix for this is longer studs, a bit of work finding them and installing or I can use extended lug nuts that have a threaded sleeve below the taper to catch more threads. The extended lug nuts require boring the wheel holes to clear. The extended nuts are 13/16 not 21mm on the socket side so the plastic caps fall off.

There are options but none are “bolt on”.

 

[mpt]

@Nikola M3 Yeah, it's sounding like a 10mm 'plate' spacer is a difficult option. If you take a look at the spacers I fitted, they're not bolt through but rather like the rears you're planning to use - they bolt onto the hub then offer their own lugs that the standard wheel bolts onto. Altogether, very plug-n-play.

I'd looked at extending the lugs in the hub itself but that looked both tricky to do and difficult to reverse - incase you ever opt to buy wider wheels that don't need the extra offset.

Maybe I mis-read your comment but the bore is 64.1mm no?

 

[follow.johnny]

I've compiled a walk around for Stock, Unplugged and TSportline to give a better impression of the differences.

Thanks for the video! I'm planning on ordering the TSportline springs it's the perfect drop in my opinion.

 

[Nikola M3]

@Nikola M3 Yeah, it's sounding like a 10mm 'plate' spacer is a difficult option. If you take a look at the spacers I fitted, they're not bolt through but rather like the rears you're planning to use - they bolt onto the hub then offer their own lugs that the standard wheel bolts onto. Altogether, very plug-n-play.

I'd looked at extending the lugs in the hub itself but that looked both tricky to do and difficult to reverse - incase you ever opt to buy wider wheels that don't need the extra offset.

Maybe I mis-read your comment but the bore is 64.1mm no?

I measured the hub at 64.0, that was a typo sorry.

The shop advised me that the type you have at 10 mm is risky since the studs only have a small area for the knurled part of the studs to grab into.

 

[mpt]

The shop advised me that the type you have at 10 mm is risky since the studs only have a small area for the knurled part of the studs to grab into.

I've heard the same at 10mm. Part of why I chose 15mm.

 

[Limited]

Regarding the progressive springs for the rear, which direction is up? Does the tight coil go up (closest to the body of the vehicle)? Thanks in advance!

 

[dgaultiere]

Yes, the only option I will consider for spacers over 3mm is hub and wheel centric.

To get a 10 mm spacer for the front is becoming an issue. The hub protrudes 8.4 mm so it does not leave enough “meat” in the spacer for the wheel side hub protrusion on the spacer. Add to the problem is with the design of the 18” stock wheel. The 84 mm center bore in the wheel is 90mm for the first 3 mm deep. A 3 mm spacer is the thickest that can be used so the wheel hub will go through the spacer and into the wheel about 2.4 mm.

A unique profile can be made onto a 10 mm spacer using the 3 mm recess in the wheel to add “meat” to the spacer in that critical area.

If using a 10 mm spacer then the wheel studs will not be long enough. The fix for this is longer studs, a bit of work finding them and installing or I can use extended lug nuts that have a threaded sleeve below the taper to catch more threads. The extended lug nuts require boring the wheel holes to clear. The extended nuts are 13/16 not 21mm on the socket side so the plastic caps fall off.

There are options but none are “bolt on”.

This really helpful information. I've had a lot of trouble finding good information about spacer options for this car. My last car (E90 BMW) had lug bolts that threaded into the hub, so installing spacers just meant getting longer lug bolts. This is much tricker!

I ended up opting for 15mm front / 20mm rear, but I was originally planning around 8-10mm front so I'm glad I didn't go that route.

 

[dgaultiere]

PS – After seeing @mpt's car, I ordered the T Sportline springs yesterday and they came today! Amazing!

 

[Twincam23]

Picked up my TSportline springs yesterday. Will get them installed this Thursday. Pictures to come..

 

[odyuh]

Picked up my TSportline springs yesterday. Will get them installed this Thursday. Pictures to come..

Saw you're in SoCal...where are you getting it installed? Just picked my pair up yesterday and looking for a place to install.

 

[warrior15r]

Picked up my TSportline springs yesterday. Will get them installed this Thursday. Pictures to come..

I'm from Orange County and plan to get the tsportline springs too. Can you let me know where you had them installed and how much you're getting charged?

 

[Twincam23]

Getting it installed at Vibe Motorsports in Burbank for $400. They said it will take 4 hours to do. Need to remove a bunch of frunk stuff.
Only checked a couple of places and TSportline wanted $700 for the install. No thanks.

 

[warrior15r]

Getting it installed at Vibe Motorsports in Burbank for $400. They said it will take 4 hours to do. Need to remove a bunch of frunk stuff.
Only checked a couple of places and TSportline wanted $700 for the install. No thanks.

Cool! When you are done and are posting pictures, I would love to hear your experience and the quality of their work. And most importantly your specific setup and how you like the springs =)

 

[atlas310]

Getting it installed at Vibe Motorsports in Burbank for $400. They said it will take 4 hours to do. Need to remove a bunch of frunk stuff.
Only checked a couple of places and TSportline wanted $700 for the install. No thanks.

$700?!

 

[atlas310]

I want to get the tsportlines, but I'm curious to see how the Eibachs compare. If tsportlines are just rebranded Eibachs, then how come the Eibachs haven't been released yet? There has to be some difference.