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MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track

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it was a combo of track mode (not reliable) and vbox. I used racerender to put it together

Thanks for sharing! Was that you driving?
I’m assuming the data came from the CSV that Track Mode saves.
What software was used to display the data overlay on the video?



a mix of the track mode data and my own vbox logger for g forces. I use racerender.
Thanks for sharing! Was that you driving?
I’m assuming the data came from the CSV that Track Mode saves.
What software was used to display the data overlay on the video?
 
Yeah, I wish there was a good way to isolate the battery heat issue.

Keep in mind the problem is not battery heat. What the UI is displaying is the limited amount of current the battery can discharge due to drive unit heat :)

Solution(s) are in progress!

It doesn’t matter. You will have less power with less state of charge anyway.

True, but not nearly to the degree that you are limited due to the drive unit overheating. I'll take a 10-20% power loss from low SOC compared to a 50% loss from thermal limits.
 
thanks I ordered a Samsung T7, and I’ll try dropping the pressure to 35 cold next time, and work up from there. The pressures were 41 cold and 43 hot on the track.
I have 3-4 psi pressure increase just with a city driving on 275 tires. Stock wheels on a track for me was doing +18 psi before I had to back off. CUP2 275 19r was 28->42 psi on a Nurburgring single lap.

I can't imagine how it's possible to do +2 psi on a stock tires on any track.
 
I'll take a 10-20% power loss from low SOC compared to a 50% loss from thermal limits.
I agree, this is exactly what I'd really like to see quantified. We have a good understanding of the % of power loss from SOC based on the methodology MPP used on their dyno runs (waiting an hour between each run to let things cool), but not from thermal limits. It would be great to isolate this and to get a better understanding of the interaction between the two factors.
 
This is data from lap 1 vs lap 4. At lower state of charge with a non heated up car, the car is slower, but recoverable. Problem is that once it heated up, it heats back up very quickly even after if you cool it for a lap or two. Before you are half way into the lap, the car is already losing massive amount of power. There is no coming back from that power deficit.



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At lower state of charge... it heats back up very quickly even after if you cool it for a lap or two. Before you are half way into the lap, the car is already losing massive amount of power. There is no coming back from that power deficit.

Great info, this result does seem to indicate that the battery heats up more quickly when running at a lower state of charge than it does when starting with a higher SoC. I'd like to try to quantify the this with Scan My Tesla data next weekend - if I can compel myself to not charge before one of the sessions.
 
I have 3-4 psi pressure increase just with a city driving on 275 tires. Stock wheels on a track for me was doing +18 psi before I had to back off. CUP2 275 19r was 28->42 psi on a Nurburgring single lap.

I can't imagine how it's possible to do +2 psi on a stock tires on any track.
Yes I agree with this. Data must be wrong.
 
I don't know if I agree with that statement 100% because I did one hot, one cool and one hot. Once again you could see how everything heated up way quicker than before. I will post a video shortly on it.

Great info, this result does seem to indicate that the battery heats up more quickly when running at a lower state of charge than it does when starting with a higher SoC. I'd like to try to quantify the this with Scan My Tesla data next weekend - if I can compel myself to not charge before one of the sessions.
 
I should clarify when it heated up, it doesn't necessarily mean it is pulling power. The dash just becomes red and orange quicker than before.
That's what I want to validate. I'd like to compare the power output at a given SoC with an overheated battery, and then start another session with a fresh happy battery at that same SoC. I don't think that a one lap cool down is enough.
 
I should clarify when it heated up, it doesn't necessarily mean it is pulling power. The dash just becomes red and orange quicker than before.
This is common of all cars on track though. Once the car has become heat soaked without significant off track cool down it will very quickly come back up to a high temp. That tells me that the cooling system is not anywhere near good enough on this car.
 
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Not try to harp on this but let's be consistent with our message, the battery is NOT overheating. The drive unit(s) are overheating, which is restricting the amount of power they can pull from the battery. The UI is very confusing, but dozens of data sets confirm the same thing - the battery temperature is not the problem.

I agree that the cooling system for the drive units is not adequate for long-term use on the track. I highly doubt this was a consideration when the Model 3 was designed. At the time, tracking the vehicle was likely not of any consideration. Fortunately, this condition can be resolved. We should have more information to share in the next few weeks.