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MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track

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Of course, since you weren't pushing, it's hard to understand exactly but your data is very useful.

At maximum power level the decrease is minimal between lap 1 and lap 5, even with a 20% less SOC with the "battery" on green.

Even once it turns Red, albeit much lower, the maximum power appears to be constant.

One question: on the straight were you pushing or did you not use the full throttle?
I was using full throttle coming out of the corners and along the straights, was coasting a bit going into corners. This was late in the afternoon on a hot day in June, and I was being very cautious, as it was my first time taking the M3P on the track. My Lotus Elise engine had blown up that morning (rod cracked the block), so I'd had enough expensive stuff happen for the day. The other data I shared was from a cool morning in October, but the USB stick crapped out after 5 laps so I don't have the full session. Ready for next time I have a Samsung flash drive installed, will run softer tires, and hopefully will get some better times.
 
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OK I got it working. I'm not great with some of these github languages :(
This is the same session I posted the SMT graph from a few posts back. The battery graphic changed very quickly from green to red halfway through lap 8 and then I slowed and pressed stop, so the 1:26 laptime can be ignored. But it shows that for the first 7 laps, the car was performing well.

View attachment 603133

It's that sudden 'maxBattery temp" change from 71-102% I can't relate to the SMT data. I don't see any other temperature in the SMT data which leaps up by that amount around that time.
Very cool! Thanks for trying it out and getting it to work, I wasn't sure if I had enough info in the README to be helpful. There's some more data to add, and some plots to generate (it will save png files), when I get a bit more time.
 
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Very cool! Thanks for trying it out and getting it to work, I wasn't sure if I had enough info in the README to be helpful. There's some more data to add, and some plots to generate (it will save png files), when I get a bit more time.

adrianco/r-tesla-telemetry

I updated the summary to include acceleration and braking, and documented how to make basic plots like this one showing my out lap from the pits.
Rplot001.png
 
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I combined data from @Electric Dream - Tesla and SMT logs together.
View attachment 603261

My observations:
1. R/F Stator could be wrong marked in SMT - Rear motor obviously hotter by oil
2. Coolant radiator needs increased power - battery inlet temperatures can't keep up.
This is a nice visualisation of what's going on, but how is this "battery temperature" % derived? Even adding together all the stator & oil temps it doesn't account for the sudden rise we see.
 
This is a nice visualisation of what's going on, but how is this "battery temperature" % derived? Even adding together all the stator & oil temps it doesn't account for the sudden rise we see.
We can only speculate. My assumptions are:
1. It's complicated formula that takes some sensors not exposed in SMT
2. It's clearly has timer delay on going up and down to take into account thermal inertia.
3. It's not a pure math formula, but conditional, when something is something do this math, otherwise that math.

If SMT will update all temp sensors - we can try to see if we can reverse engineer how it's calculated. It's important to understand what to cool to prevent Tesla deciding on going into power cut mode
 
We can only speculate. My assumptions are:
1. It's complicated formula that takes some sensors not exposed in SMT
2. It's clearly has timer delay on going up and down to take into account thermal inertia.
3. It's not a pure math formula, but conditional, when something is something do this math, otherwise that math.

If SMT will update all temp sensors - we can try to see if we can reverse engineer how it's calculated. It's important to understand what to cool to prevent Tesla deciding on going into power cut mode
Yes, I think you're right. It's another algorithm of sorts and one question is what is a red battery trying to warn us about? Cooking the oil, frazzling the stators, frying the inverters? What would get damaged if we did continue to drive as hard as possible once the battery temp. goes over 100%? Would it eventually bring the car to a stop or throw up a warning we haven't yet seen?

(BTW I'm not going to be the first one to try this before anyone asks) :D
 
Yes, I think you're right. It's another algorithm of sorts and one question is what is a red battery trying to warn us about? Cooking the oil, frazzling the stators, frying the inverters? What would get damaged if we did continue to drive as hard as possible once the battery temp. goes over 100%? Would it eventually bring the car to a stop or throw up a warning we haven't yet seen?

(BTW I'm not going to be the first one to try this before anyone asks) :D
I'm sure nothing will happen. That is pretty much thermal throttling to prevent you from doing anything bad to it. Same as modern CPUs - you need to try hard to burn them - they just going to sleep as much as necessary to avoid overheating. Sebastien goes on the track with red battery all the time.
 
Got ready for this weekend TT, racing breaking oil,carbonteck pads, 245x19 front, 275x19 rear, aligned 2.3 camber front, 2 in the rear, OBDII connector, Laptimer and GoPro. I have no clue how that car will behave on the track or how I'll do with energy management and if I will be able to do all the sessions... :) Fun With Cars they say :)
 
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I have a theory that battery is just a largest visible indicator on the screen and they make it 100% to indicate general overheat so that driver would notice. Battery cells are nowhere near being hot. Stator temperature is way too high and oil way too low.

That's right ... if the data were really correct it would be a problem, because in this case the oil is not able to cool the stator. You can cool the oil as much as you like, but it won't solve the problem.
 
Got ready for this weekend TT, racing breaking oil,carbonteck pads, 245x19 front, 275x19 rear, aligned 2.3 camber front, 2 in the rear, OBDII connector, Laptimer and GoPro. I have no clue how that car will behave on the track or how I'll do with energy management and if I will be able to do all the sessions... :) Fun With Cars they say :)

If you have the chance try to do one or more fast laps with the SOC below 50% but with the car cold. It would be very interesting data, because it always arrives at that SOC when the car is hot, so we would actually see how much power can be available at low SOC without overheating.
 
If you have the chance try to do one or more fast laps with the SOC below 50% but with the car cold. It would be very interesting data, because it always arrives at that SOC when the car is hot, so we would actually see how much power can be available at low SOC without overheating.
I have done that plenty of times on track days. I'll dig out some data, but from memory it's not much different to a higher SoC. As in the time it takes for the battery to turn orange/red.
 
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