juliusb
Member
So you daily drive and track your M3 with the same and only mild -1.5°F/-2.0°R? What happend to "one needs at least 2.5° front camber for evenly distributed tire wear and temperature?"I'm keeping -1.5F, -2.0R. Optimal would be OEM specs. That one is a compromise for spirited driving.
I also don't use quick swap feature, since I'm lazy to do it, it gets stuck easy and you have to fix toe there and back. I just go like that street and track. It damages shoulder somewhat, but rubber would lose flexibility faster anyway
For sure you are a very sophisticated and experienced M3-track-master - so how did you find this mild front camber settings and for which tire size and brand?
Ok I see your point and welcome the possibilty for lower camber requirements. But why do you state -2.5°F here, and above just -1.5°F? Typo or different scenario / tire size?I dont believe that -3.5 is optimal for the track. At the time I checked that my optimal front was -2.5 based on tire temps at the pit lane.
Ok thanks! Why did you switch from 295 to 275? Care to share the whole story behind?3.5 is really more to fit 295 width front tires. But I don't use 295 anymore and use 275 35 19 everywhere and switching tires from 4S to Cup 2.
Ok, sounds good, but why do you suggest >2.0°R camber to me, but using "only" -2.0°R yourself? Sorry for the confusion...Your rear should be higher camber. -2.0 is within oem specs.
Very good advice, this was the size I planned for my dedicated track tire set with AD09. Sorry for my tenacity - but if 295/35 R18 was/is that optimal, why did you change to narrower 275/35 R19?295x35x18 is a reasonable track tires - pressure gets optimal, heat management is better. It also works well with harder springs
Yes I fancy! Taking into account your testimonial and the other recent posts re camber switching track/street, I may try 285/35 R19 or even 275/40 R18 with 11" wheels to get the maximum steering precision and minimum camber need out of this narrower/cheaper/easier to fit tires. All with Yoko AD09, as they seem to perform better than C2 and run longer/cheaper than A052...If you fancy dedicated track wheels - 295 35 18 and go through typical r-compound options, since they won't last for long anyway. Find what you like
Yes I agree! I planned to install KW V3 coilovers - which would you prefer and why? MPP Sports Coilovers + SS springs, or KW V3 combined with stiffer KW springs?Suspension matters a lot. I found that MPP SS springs are drivable on the bumpy street with 19 inch wheels and is certainly much more fun on the track. I feel like harder than that and daily would be annoying, so its a good balance. It requires MPP spring arm, though
I like KW cause there are very common in Austria/Germany, a lot of racing teams use them, it is a leading german manufacturer close to my home, and there is a rebound adjustment extension available for convenient access via frunk.
AFAIK MPPs supplier for their own coilover product is KW - so I´m wondering which of this similar solutions gives us the better tuning/package/experience IRL...
Thanks, after intending to apply UP FUCAs, arms & bushings in the first place, I may switch to MPP for quality and design reasons. It also makes sense to purchase as much as possible from one vendor, and AFAIK only MPP offers DU oil coolers (and maybe HV battery radiators) and Party Cooling Boxes.UP FUCA eventually got bolts completely fused, so I can't adjust it anymore.
P.S. I sold MPP FUCA for UP since UP allows caster adjustments. It was a mistake. MPP was less adjustable, but reliable
Re fused bolts and other stuck components: I painfully learned that lesson with my last Toyota Hilux overlander build: the threads for height adjustment of my very nice Nestle Performance coilovers got stuck after 2 salty winters. Since then I ask my mechanics to apply copper paste or some similiar synthetic alternative to any new movable part to prevent salt-corosion & fusing. Hope that'll do with the KW & MPP parts...
Thanks again for your sharing and patience!
Greetings to Prague - Julius