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Model 3 12v battery dead

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Have you looked at an autoparts store? I haven't been able to have on pop up on their online catalog. $85 over the counter at Tesla, no core.
Yes, the battery will not show up on the catalogs. But it's a Group Size 51R and you can find AGM versions at auto parts stores. They are more expensive than the OEM purchased from Tesla, but it doesn't matter to me. I live 2 hours from the nearest Service Center and don't want to have a spare on hand (nor do I want to replace my 12v battery until it fails).
 
Yes, the battery will not show up on the catalogs. But it's a Group Size 51R and you can find AGM versions at auto parts stores. They are more expensive than the OEM purchased from Tesla, but it doesn't matter to me. I live 2 hours from the nearest Service Center and don't want to have a spare on hand (nor do I want to replace my 12v battery until it fails).
Why do you think it is an AGM? It has a vent on the side connected to a hose. NOT a sealed battery. It is not inside the cabin like a Prius or Mini cooper which are AGM to prevent hydrogen gas from entering the cabin space.
 
It's not AGM, the OEM is $85, and that's way too cheap for an AGM. Plus, the OEM specs, I think Hankook, indicate it's not AGM.
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I don't know if it's an AGM because the manufacturer doesn't use the same part number nomenclature as their other AGM batteries (KenC posted the relevant page from their North American catalog). But I would replace it with an AGM based on the charging and float voltages that I monitored on my Model 3 a while back. They fit the same specs as an AGM battery. Of course, Tesla can and has changed the charging behavior with updates, and recently I've found my car behaving a little differently while charging the 12v battery. Could be due to the car knowing our detecting it's age or condition as well. By the way, I installed a shunt and battery monitor on my Model 3 12v battery and can see the voltage, current, Ah, and state of charge. Can see if the current is negative or positive. I'd anybody is wondering about how deeply Tesla cycles the 12v, not much. I've never seen mine cycle more than 10% since I've been monitoring it starting this summer. Again, could be different based on the age or condition of my battery (April 2018 and 70,000 miles).
Why do you think it is an AGM? It has a vent on the side connected to a hose. NOT a sealed battery. It is not inside the cabin like a Prius or Mini cooper which are AGM to prevent hydrogen gas from entering the cabin space.
 
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I had been worried about the 12v dying soon since I'm planning on making many ski trips this winter and don't want to get stranded up there. It finally happened- 06/2018 LR RWD @ 26k miles. It lasted 3 years, 3 mo. which seems about average (?)

I was relieved that my wife received a notification, while at home rather than finding it dead. However, because there's so much variance about how long the 12v lasts after receiving the notification, I was afraid to let her drive it somewhere and have her get stuck. I hopped in the car and drove straight to the SC and thankfully they were able to fit me in and swap in a new one within 45min.

In the future, what is the best process to deal with this? Since it seems like you're not guaranteed to receive a warning beforehand, should you just have a (charged) jump starter in the frunk and carry a 9v battery with you at all times to get into the frunk?
 
I had been worried about the 12v dying soon since I'm planning on making many ski trips this winter and don't want to get stranded up there. It finally happened- 06/2018 LR RWD @ 26k miles. It lasted 3 years, 3 mo. which seems about average (?)

I was relieved that my wife received a notification, while at home rather than finding it dead. However, because there's so much variance about how long the 12v lasts after receiving the notification, I was afraid to let her drive it somewhere and have her get stuck. I hopped in the car and drove straight to the SC and thankfully they were able to fit me in and swap in a new one within 45min.

In the future, what is the best process to deal with this? Since it seems like you're not guaranteed to receive a warning beforehand, should you just have a (charged) jump starter in the frunk and carry a 9v battery with you at all times to get into the frunk?
I think the best process is how I plan on doing it when mine dies. I stashed an A23 battery in a ziplock bag behind the tow hook cover. The battery is a tiny 12v battery and two fit perfectly where you screw in the tow hook (you only need one, but two gives you a backup). Use the A23 battery to pop open the frunk using the two wires behind the tow hook cover. I carry a lithium iron phosphate jump starter in my frunk that I can use to jump start myself. If that fails, I also put a small 10mm wrench in the jump starter pouch so that I can replace my own 12v battery with a group size 51R battery purchased from any auto parts store or big box store.
 
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I don't know if it's an AGM because the manufacturer doesn't use the same part number nomenclature as their other AGM batteries (KenC posted the relevant page from their North American catalog). But I would replace it with an AGM based on the charging and float voltages that I monitored on my Model 3 a while back. They fit the same specs as an AGM battery. Of course, Tesla can and has changed the charging behavior with updates, and recently I've found my car behaving a little differently while charging the 12v battery. Could be due to the car knowing our detecting it's age or condition as well. By the way, I installed a shunt and battery monitor on my Model 3 12v battery and can see the voltage, current, Ah, and state of charge. Can see if the current is negative or positive. I'd anybody is wondering about how deeply Tesla cycles the 12v, not much. I've never seen mine cycle more than 10% since I've been monitoring it starting this summer. Again, could be different based on the age or condition of my battery (April 2018 and 70,000 miles).
Is it documented that they changed the software for charging the 12 V? there were rumors a while back.
 
I had been worried about the 12v dying soon since I'm planning on making many ski trips this winter and don't want to get stranded up there. It finally happened- 06/2018 LR RWD @ 26k miles. It lasted 3 years, 3 mo. which seems about average (?)

I was relieved that my wife received a notification, while at home rather than finding it dead. However, because there's so much variance about how long the 12v lasts after receiving the notification, I was afraid to let her drive it somewhere and have her get stuck. I hopped in the car and drove straight to the SC and thankfully they were able to fit me in and swap in a new one within 45min.

In the future, what is the best process to deal with this? Since it seems like you're not guaranteed to receive a warning beforehand, should you just have a (charged) jump starter in the frunk and carry a 9v battery with you at all times to get into the frunk?
April 19 Model 3 I plan on changing battery every 3 years unless the rumored change to the 12 v BMS improves the life. There must have been a reason that the new S & X have a Li battery like they couldn't get long life with the lead acid BMS.
 
I had been worried about the 12v dying soon since I'm planning on making many ski trips this winter and don't want to get stranded up there. It finally happened- 06/2018 LR RWD @ 26k miles. It lasted 3 years, 3 mo. which seems about average (?)

I was relieved that my wife received a notification, while at home rather than finding it dead. However, because there's so much variance about how long the 12v lasts after receiving the notification, I was afraid to let her drive it somewhere and have her get stuck. I hopped in the car and drove straight to the SC and thankfully they were able to fit me in and swap in a new one within 45min.

In the future, what is the best process to deal with this? Since it seems like you're not guaranteed to receive a warning beforehand, should you just have a (charged) jump starter in the frunk and carry a 9v battery with you at all times to get into the frunk?
Ha, my 3 is a little younger than yours, and I've been waiting for that sudden failure since it passed its 2nd birthday. Yes, I carry around a 9V in my pocket! And, there's a Noco starter in the frunk. As well as, wrenches to change the battery, and I bought a 51R at SamsClub for $85 on sale. It's currently starting my standby generator. If it fails at home, I can swap out the battery, since I'm 3hrs away from the closest SC.

I carried the fresh 51R in the space in the trunk when I went on a 4400 mile trip this Fall. Didn't want the 12V to fail in the middle of the trip stranding me in the middle of nowhere. Yeah, I could have changed it preemptively, but I did want to see what the car would do when the 12V starts to go sour.

Oh, I also got one of those 12V testers to check on the battery. All seems good.
 
How did you try to jumpstart? What did you use? Did disconnect the dead battery? Did have the rotten egg smell?
Every post I’ve seen about people not being able to jump start their car, didn’t disconnect the affected battery. I agree with @android04 that if the battery is shorted there is something going on that doesn’t let you jump the car while the shorted battery is still connected. Disconnecting it and applying a sufficient 12v source should allow you to jumpstart and drive as long as you want. As long as you don’t let the car sleep and there isn’t anything wrong with your dc-dc converter.
So if the DC-DC converter is OK and you turn on Sentry, the car will not sleep and you'll therefore be 'fine' until you get the battery replace?
 
This seems to be the best strategy.
1. Hide a 12v A23 battery behind the tow access cover, so you can open the frunk if your car's 12v is dead.
2. Keep a battery jump starter in the frunk, to allow you to start the car and drive to a service center,

Stowing an A23 battery behind the tow cover may shorten its life in cold climates. Instead I carry it with me in a makeshift wallet insert. See attached pics:
 

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The latest Teslas are coming out with Lithium 12V batteries. These are supposed to last much longer than the old ones. Can you get the new 12V batteries from Tesla?
I'm wondering the same thing. I have seen photos online of the new Lithium 12V batteries in model 3s and it looks like the cables that connect to the positive and negative posts are completely different so it would probably require some sort of hardware upgrade to be compatible with the new lithium batteries.

My car will be two years old in May and my intentions are to have the two year maintenance performed (change cabin air filter and have brake calipers lubricated since I live in a snowy climate) and to preemptively change the 12V battery at that time. I live two hours from the nearest service center, so I don't want to take a chance on the 12V going dead unexpectedly.
 
The latest Teslas are coming out with Lithium 12V batteries. These are supposed to last much longer than the old ones. Can you get the new 12V batteries from Tesla?
You will probably be able to buy them from Tesla eventually, but they are not plug and play into vehicles that didn't come with them. And it's not likely that Tesla will do retrofits, because other parts and harnesses will need to be replaced.
 
The latest Teslas are coming out with Lithium 12V batteries. These are supposed to last much longer than the old ones. Can you get the new 12V batteries from Tesla?
NO, they would require a very different BMS which is in the main battery pack to supply charging voltage which is very different than lead acid. I would think the BMS would need different hardware components, but maybe? they could do it with software magic?
 
The latest Teslas are coming out with Lithium 12V batteries. These are supposed to last much longer than the old ones. Can you get the new 12V batteries from Tesla?
In the parts catalog but given all the problems Ohmuu is having to keep from throwing errors, there is no way slapping in any old LI battery is going to work. Tesla BMS is expecting a lead acid resistance and voltage curve which is quite different for a Li battery.
 
I'm wondering how will this new Lithium 12V battery handle being charged in real cold climate (like -20C and below). From what I read, it doesn't have a heater.
Maybe when it is cold Tesla reduces or turns off the DC to DC converter output and draws all the low voltage from the new lithium ion "12v" battery until it warms up enough to safely charge. Ingeneerix did a teardown of the new low voltage battery from a Plaid Model S on YouTube and there was no dedicated heater on it. So the only way to warm it might be to draw energy from it.