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Model 3 - LR AWD Waiting Room

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That makes a little more sense. I could not imagine importing them from China and not adding the freight to the final price. Thanks for the clarification.
Within the US, we get charged a destination fee which pays for rail and truck transport from the factory. In Europe, they get charged a shipping fee for transport by ship and truck. It works out that the two fees are about the same. Cargo transport by ship is remarkably inexpensive. If it wasn't, we'd never have developed a global economy.

Your particular vehicle will be built in Fremont, California, sent by rail to Chicago, Illinois, then sent by truck to your pickup location in Indianapolis, Indiana.
 
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Within the US, we get charged a destination fee which pays for rail and truck transport from the factory. In Europe, they get charged a shipping fee for transport by ship and truck. It works out that the two fees are about the same. Cargo transport by ship is remarkably inexpensive. If it wasn't, we'd never have developed a global economy.

Your particular vehicle will be built in Fremont, California, sent by rail to Chicago, Illinois, then sent by truck to your pickup location in Indianapolis, Indiana.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I feel I should know this given my profession. Then again my company tends to always air freight everything.
 
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Most cars I've owned or driven rattles here and there. Nissan Altima, Hyundai Elantra, Toyota Sienna, Mercedes CLK & SLK. They all rattle at some point. That's just the fact. The car will flex somewhat driving along especially with the amount of plastic components within a car. It's bound to happen. Even if the car is parked you can hear clicks and pops from the materials expanding and contracting due to temperature fluctuations.
add to that the fact that different materials have a different thermal coefficient of expansion, they will expand or contract unequally and often cause squeaks, creaks and sometimes rattles. Best solution? Identify those spots and add some $2 felt between them. That is what Mercedes and Lexus dealers do when I get my cars in for those issues. Now I do it myself.
 
I think most people have forgotten that Tesla is a tech/software company that happens to make cars.
Green shell brings up a great point when they mention Lexus. Every Car Company has one or two core tenants by which they build cars.
Lexus=reliability/durability
Ferrari=sex appeal/sportiness
Porsche=Obtaining perfection
Volvo=safety
Etc

Tesla=bleeding edge tech and software.

There is always one or two main reason a car company is chosen over another. I would say for the most part, we chose Tesla because we value the tech more than the “QC”.

Teslas top priority is obviously not QC, but there isn’t a car company out that can claim they prioritize every aspect of what makes a car company great. If there was, we would be buying from said company.
I wouls specifically say that Tesla focuses on technology QC ie all internal components that are functional have great QC. If not, we would be seeing a GM/Chrysler style powertrain failures every other day.
 
On the Tesla website, it shows and Estimated Delivery Date range that is 2 months earlier for black/blue/red colors vs white/midnight silver. Is this likely to be accurate?

I liked the Midnight Silver, but bought a black model 3 (because I liked it as well and it was $1000 cheaper at the time). That car was totaled and so I'm looking at ordering new. this time around, midnight silver is $1000 cheaper, but 2 months might be worth the price increase.
 
On the Tesla website, it shows and Estimated Delivery Date range that is 2 months earlier for black/blue/red colors vs white/midnight silver. Is this likely to be accurate?
To date, base configurations have been about 2 weeks slower to deliver. I suspect that the longer wait shown on the website has encouraged people to get into upgraded configurations, causing that queue to be almost as long as the base configuration queue. Some people even upgrade to the Model 3 Performance so they can get a car almost immediately.
 
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Curious if anyone has recently switched from LR to P, then back to LR? What did it do to your EDD?

I have no current plans to do this. I switched from LR to P once it became apparent that I was likely going to miss out on a sales tax incentive my state offers for selling my previous car. Here in AR, we have 60 days before or after the sale of a vehicle to apply that value toward the purchase of another vehicle and offset its sales tax accordingly. Having to pay the sales tax on the LR pushed its price tantalizing close to the P with no sales tax, and people who recently switched were sometimes getting matched with a car within days to a couple of weeks. But recent changes in P EDDs have me concerned that it, too, might get pushed out too far to use that incentive. Womp womp. If so, that will tack another ~$4100 onto the cost of the car and make the delta between the LR and the P maybe less worthwhile.

Just wondering if I would need to expect a ridiculously pushed out EDD if I ended up switching back. Tesla assured me over the phone yesterday that I would still get it at the price I locked when I originally ordered the car on 5/10. This actually kinda surprised me. I thought if you made *any* modifications such as color, model, etc. you get the new price. Apparently nope, I can switch back to LR and even change the color from white and I will get it at the price it would have cost on 5/10.
 
Curious if anyone has recently switched from LR to P, then back to LR? What did it do to your EDD?

I have no current plans to do this. I switched from LR to P once it became apparent that I was likely going to miss out on a sales tax incentive my state offers for selling my previous car. Here in AR, we have 60 days before or after the sale of a vehicle to apply that value toward the purchase of another vehicle and offset its sales tax accordingly. Having to pay the sales tax on the LR pushed its price tantalizing close to the P with no sales tax, and people who recently switched were sometimes getting matched with a car within days to a couple of weeks. But recent changes in P EDDs have me concerned that it, too, might get pushed out too far to use that incentive. Womp womp. If so, that will tack another ~$4100 onto the cost of the car and make the delta between the LR and the P maybe less worthwhile.

Just wondering if I would need to expect a ridiculously pushed out EDD if I ended up switching back. Tesla assured me over the phone yesterday that I would still get it at the price I locked when I originally ordered the car on 5/10. This actually kinda surprised me. I thought if you made *any* modifications such as color, model, etc. you get the new price. Apparently nope, I can switch back to LR and even change the color from white and I will get it at the price it would have cost on 5/10.
We did this same thing with our M3 order. We ordered an SR+ in February. After passing on the $70k price tag of a Model Y we changed our M3 to an LR and it kept the February pricing. This accelerated the EDD and we are picking it up next week.
 
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Curious if anyone has recently switched from LR to P, then back to LR? What did it do to your EDD?

I have no current plans to do this. I switched from LR to P once it became apparent that I was likely going to miss out on a sales tax incentive my state offers for selling my previous car. Here in AR, we have 60 days before or after the sale of a vehicle to apply that value toward the purchase of another vehicle and offset its sales tax accordingly. Having to pay the sales tax on the LR pushed its price tantalizing close to the P with no sales tax, and people who recently switched were sometimes getting matched with a car within days to a couple of weeks. But recent changes in P EDDs have me concerned that it, too, might get pushed out too far to use that incentive. Womp womp. If so, that will tack another ~$4100 onto the cost of the car and make the delta between the LR and the P maybe less worthwhile.

Just wondering if I would need to expect a ridiculously pushed out EDD if I ended up switching back. Tesla assured me over the phone yesterday that I would still get it at the price I locked when I originally ordered the car on 5/10. This actually kinda surprised me. I thought if you made *any* modifications such as color, model, etc. you get the new price. Apparently nope, I can switch back to LR and even change the color from white and I will get it at the price it would have cost on 5/10.
You are in Arkansas which means you need rail shipping. If you don't have a VIN and shipping confirmation yet you are looking at August at the earliest. Switching will within a make ( model 3) will not affect your OD and you will retain your place in that new line based on your original OD
 
Noobie question here. My OD is 7-4 and EDD is 11/7-1/2/23.

Do EDD streams [not individual but blocks of orders] ever shorting or do they only remain static or lengthen?

Something I could envision, for instance, production runs producing faster than expected; sort of like the opposite of maintenance shut downs.

I get indvidiual orders can change because of cancellations.

Thanks
 
Noobie question here. My OD is 7-4 and EDD is 11/7-1/2/23.

Do EDD streams [not individual but blocks of orders] ever shorting or do they only remain static or lengthen?

Something I could envision, for instance, production runs producing faster than expected; sort of like the opposite of maintenance shut downs.

I get indvidiual orders can change because of cancellations.

Thanks
I'm going to give the short answer but someone may be able to give the long answer and/or provide some prior posts from the archive addressing this.

Based on your location and OD November at the earliest is when you can reasonably expect the car. Your EDD is likely accurate. Things can get shortened or lengthened and yes in rare cases you may steal a car way way earlier then expected. But prepare to be wait until at least Novemember at the moment.