Model 3 new USB C center console data hub from model Y?

[crackers8199]

If you're lost then don't form opinions without asking questions. VCLEFT is not the computer (mcu/ap, etc) it's the body controller on the left side of the car. You are pretty much saying what I'm saying because it's a +12v pin source. Been using this pin for over a year for my dashcam.

i know what VCLEFT is and i'm well aware of the pin you're talking about, thanks. i'm referring to the many discussions on the previous page about the wiring and voltage/amperage changes between the old USB-A hub and the new USB-C hub, and whether or not the wire gauge has changed, and discussions on having to solder new connectors, pictures of the entire assembly torn apart, etc. all of those discussions seem to indicate this is way more complicated than a simple direct swap.

 

[Durzel]

it takes literally maybe 5 minutes to pull the console. another 5 minutes to drill the hole, and maybe another 10 minutes to wire it to the existing 12v socket. at most half an hour of your time is too much effort, but going through all this nonsense to try to change out the harness or hub or whatever this has devolved into isn't?

you don't even have to add a 12v outlet up front if you don't want to go that route...you can just drill a small hole to pass the micro-USB through, and run the wire back to the existing 12v and under the bumpers into the console and plug in that way.

i have got to be missing something here. this is all way more work than just using what's already there...yet somehow people are seeing it as easier? what am i missing?

Quite simply, if it's not a massive undertaking I would like to upgrade my Model 3 to the current spec. That's it. I don't want to drill holes in things or "mod" the car to do something different.

 

[SageBrush]

anyway, this all seems like a ton of work when if you're already pulling the console, you can just cut an opening for a 12v outlet and put your own outlet in there that you can be 100% sure will work without messing around with anything else.

I'm also a fan of the 12v outlet. I have an adapter plugged into it all the time that gives me a USB-C outlet at up to 18W. It works great. If I used it often I would find its location under the center rest annoying and would be inclined to then snake a USB-C wire to the phone area.

 

[smatthew]

Good news! I made my harness adapter, and swapped in the new USB-C rear vent. I've got my phone charging on one port, and a USB-C battery bank charging on the other and everything appears fine so far.....

 

[cypho]

Great news. Please post a part list and pinout for your adapter.

 

[smatthew]

Here are the directions, but I'd recommend waiting a few days to see if I experience any problems.
If you're in the Bay Area, I have more crimp terminals and header strips than I can shake a stick at. Holler at me.

For each adapter you'll need:
6 x 2.8mm bare crimp terminals (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FNKNSTP)
6 x crimp terminal covers OR electrical tape OR heat shrink tubing. (included with above amazon link)
1 x piece of 4 pin .1" header strip (https://www.amazon.com/MCIGICM-pines-conector-Arduino-0-096/dp/B07PKKY8BX)
2 x 3" 18 gauge black wire
2 x 3" 18 gauge red or yellow wire.
Electrical Tape

1. Strip 5mm of insulation off one end of each wire.
2. Strip 10mm of insulation off the other end of each wire.
3. Crimp on a crimp terminal to the 5mm end of the wire. Make sure you follow proper crimping procedure. See image below:
   
   
   Notice that one crimp goes on the insulation, and the other goes on the conductor. If you don't have a proper crimp tool you can do it with needle nose pliers. Just take your time and crimp them as hard as you can. Don't be tempted to add solder. A crimp is a much better and safer electrical connection than solder.
4. Repeat this 3x. You'll end up with 2 red, and 2 black.
5. Slide a crimp terminal cover over the connector, or apply heat shrink tubing.
6. This end connects to the USB hub power input.
7. On the other end of the wires, hold the two black wires together, and wrap one wire around the other. Don't spin them together. You want one wire to stay straight and end up longer.
8. Slip a crimp terminal cover over the two wires. It'll be tight, just spin it on.
9. Crimp on a crimp terminal. This time, the "conductor crimp" will be on the long straight wire, and the insulation crimp will be on the two wires twisted together.
   
10. Slide the crimp terminal cover down to cover the terminal.
11. Repeat for the other color.
12. This end connects to the vehicle harness.
13. On the vehicle harness end, use pliers and crush mating section of the terminal slightly. If you crush it too much, use a tiny screwdriver or paper clip to open it back up a little. The connector should span two pins on the .1" header strip and hold tightly.
    I found it's easier to crush the connector without the pins in it, then slightly open it back up with a tiny screwdriver. That way they grip tightly.
14. Connect both vehicle harness ends to the short side of the .1" header strip.
    
15. Use electrical tape to fasten the crimp terminals to the header strip
16. Connect the long side of the .1" harness strip to the vehicle harness connector. Black to Black.
17. Note: On the devices, the positive terminals are closest to the L flange.
18. Note: On there harness, yellow is positive, and black is negative.

I'll add pictures later. My one finished adapter is already installed in the car.

 

[lUtriaNt]

would you be interested in making this harness for folks who dont have the wherewithal to do this?

 

[AxlxA]

@smatthew amazing job! You should just put these together and we'd gladly pay you for it. If you already have spare parts etc. Let's see in a few days/weeks how the voltages are etc. Do you have a USB volt/amp/watt meter? I'm very excited about your harness!

 

[Durzel]

Great job. Would love to know what sort of volts/amps you’re getting from the ports.

So to confirm - you’ve replaced the USB hub with the newer one with the L-shaped power connector with chunkier pins too?

 

[AxlxA]

Great job. Would love to know what sort of volts/amps you’re getting from the ports.

So to confirm - you’ve replaced the USB hub with the newer one with the L-shaped power connector with chunkier pins too?

Yep. He is individually attaching these pins looks like. I couldn't find the L adapter on any sites and I looked through maybe 500+ adapters lol.

I'm waiting for some pics. Also curious how big of a gauge our older harness uses vs these 18g wires he's using.

 

[Durzel]

Might be that a straight adapter would work too. The L part is really only for keying, after all.

...or an extreme option - presumably someone could 3D print it?

 

[smatthew]

Yep. He is individually attaching these pins looks like. I couldn't find the L adapter on any sites and I looked through maybe 500+ adapters lol.

I'm waiting for some pics. Also curious how big of a gauge our older harness uses vs these 18g wires he's using.

I used 18 gauge 'cause that's what I had lying around ;-} I feel like I looked through at least a thousand connectors. Pictures coming today.

 

[lUtriaNt]

soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo... you wanna hook a brotha up playa?

 

[smatthew]

You know, it's handy that school is starting up next week. Those little hands are perfect for intricate wire harness work. "You over there! You're not learning science! Go back to the assembly line and think about what educational opportunity you're missing"

Just kidding. Can't run a child labor camp virtually. Or can I?

 

[smatthew]

Here's a finished adapter. Hidden under the shrink wrap is:

 

[sonicP3D]

Are you getting a new "tub" so that the hole matches with the port?

Or are you leaving it as a TypeC port peeking out a TypeA rectangle hole?

 

[AxlxA]

Are you getting a new "tub" so that the hole matches with the port?

Or are you leaving it as a TypeC port peeking out a TypeA rectangle hole?

The stock console on new cars never changed the holes. They're rectangle on both ports. The data hub is also shaped with rectangle with a C port.

 

[AxlxA]

View attachment 573218
Here's a finished adapter. Hidden under the shrink wrap is:
View attachment 573219

What lead you to figure out the pins are lined up 2x2 like that?

 

[AxlxA]

@smatthew make a few from the kids. Tell them its how you teach them about electronics and how to use the voltmeter.

Btw when you sell one to me we can meet at Dublin supercharger. =p

 

[smatthew]

What lead you to figure out the pins are lined up 2x2 like that?

I used my multimeter and checked continuity. One set of pins connects to the grounds on the board - and that's the negative.

Should I just set up a little store in the supercharger lot and do installs? Or is this more of a you slip some money in my window and I pass you a baggie with the good stuff? TV would have me believe I should hire a small neighborhood child to be the runner and take the heat when the cops show up.