By the way, I had some issues with my OEM sub a long while back, and decided to try switching to a different sub just to see what would happen.
(The old OEM bass started to get weak, and it might have been a firmware/software issue, but it prompted me to try doing my own sub since the OEM placement seemed non-optimal to me.)
So, I cut a bigger hole in the rear deck and got to drilling and fabricating and ended up with this:
I don't do this sort of thing in a serious way, but I tend to just like to try things out to learn from experience.
When I first put the new sub (driven off the stock amp) it caused the metal screen above to vibrate at some frequencies. ( I used some bass sweep flacs to check it out.)
So I ended up applying some thick stick on foam sound mat onto the screen with cutouts for the new sub and stock midranges.
After all was said and done, I am happy with the results. I like the sound better in my 3 than stock 3s now. But I do tend to like "punchy" bass, but this "free air" set-up seems more uniform than the stock tuned-port.
Even though it can get loud, punchy bass, it seems fairly flat and clean (at least compared to stock.)
Anyways, not a "pro level" sort of effort, but thought you folks might get a chuckle from an amateur dabbling in this sort of thing.
Oh, and my new set-up is optimized for rear seats up, whereas I see some postings elsewhere suggesting to leave the seats down so that the stock sub can get more air pressure to you. Maybe more true on newer cars without the rear deck cut-outs. I don't want to have to leave my rear seats down...
This was done as a low budget exercise (spent all my savings on the car!). It was an inexpensive sub, but has a dual voice-coil that uses similar inputs to stock sub.
Now that my subwoofer is in the middle, I don't have to mention if my car is RHD or LHD since the experience should be similar for both driver and passenger.
Some related details on these threads:
Adding Aftermarket Subwoofer
Sound system lost it's "punch" after latest update
Back speakers and Sub not working.
(The old OEM bass started to get weak, and it might have been a firmware/software issue, but it prompted me to try doing my own sub since the OEM placement seemed non-optimal to me.)
So, I cut a bigger hole in the rear deck and got to drilling and fabricating and ended up with this:
I don't do this sort of thing in a serious way, but I tend to just like to try things out to learn from experience.
When I first put the new sub (driven off the stock amp) it caused the metal screen above to vibrate at some frequencies. ( I used some bass sweep flacs to check it out.)
So I ended up applying some thick stick on foam sound mat onto the screen with cutouts for the new sub and stock midranges.
After all was said and done, I am happy with the results. I like the sound better in my 3 than stock 3s now. But I do tend to like "punchy" bass, but this "free air" set-up seems more uniform than the stock tuned-port.
Even though it can get loud, punchy bass, it seems fairly flat and clean (at least compared to stock.)
Anyways, not a "pro level" sort of effort, but thought you folks might get a chuckle from an amateur dabbling in this sort of thing.
Oh, and my new set-up is optimized for rear seats up, whereas I see some postings elsewhere suggesting to leave the seats down so that the stock sub can get more air pressure to you. Maybe more true on newer cars without the rear deck cut-outs. I don't want to have to leave my rear seats down...
This was done as a low budget exercise (spent all my savings on the car!). It was an inexpensive sub, but has a dual voice-coil that uses similar inputs to stock sub.
Now that my subwoofer is in the middle, I don't have to mention if my car is RHD or LHD since the experience should be similar for both driver and passenger.
Some related details on these threads:
Adding Aftermarket Subwoofer
Sound system lost it's "punch" after latest update
Back speakers and Sub not working.
Last edited: