Great to hear. I have the Standard Range Plus version, which does NOT have an existing subwoofer and amp. Would my fresh subwoofer install be any different than yours considering I don't have a stock sub or amplifier and all of the associated wiring that comes with those stock items?
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Model 3 subwoofer install.
- Thread starter SabrToothSqrl
- Start date
flashflooder
Member
Yes, you'd have to find somewhere else to tap into the audio signal. The front door woofers are a prime candidate, but are probably missing some of the extreme low end. You could use an LC2i or other LOC/DSP to compensate.
Thanks for those detailed instructions. I had a 2 ohm 12 inch P3 Punch laying around and decided to install it in my Model 3. Initially I was a big fan of the Model 3's premium audio (LR AWD), but I soon started to notice it lacks low end bass (below 40hz). I am using the same amp as yours, the 500 watt mono amp. I did a similar install process to yours, the easy part of the install is tapping into the 12v power from under the seat and getting the high level inputs from the factory amp. The hard part was finding a remote turn on connection for the amp. Initially I read you can use the VCLeft from the center console, I attempted to do that but it is pretty difficult to get in there and tried to find another way. My alternative method (didnt work) was just to use the under seat 12v power connection. I had noticed that the vehicle turns off the power to this connection after a couple minutes. I thought great, I don't need to use the VCLeft from the center console. After installing the system, I noticed my amp didnt turn off. I guess the car is detecting usage so it wont go to sleep.
Good thing I found your advice on using a LOC with remote turn on. I just ordered that on Amazon and will be installing that. I had initially just used the high level input on the aftermarket Amp with the high level output from the factory Amp. Anyone else doing this install, just get a LOC with remote turn on, it will save you a lot of time.
Had a question on the wiring. In step 20, you mention you reconnected he factory sub? Are you running both the factory sub and the aftermarket sub? Also for the wiring, I am using purple (positive) and brown (negative), it works fine, but should I use one vs the other. I read somewhere the sub may be wired in series with other speakers, not sure if that is the case.
Good thing I found your advice on using a LOC with remote turn on. I just ordered that on Amazon and will be installing that. I had initially just used the high level input on the aftermarket Amp with the high level output from the factory Amp. Anyone else doing this install, just get a LOC with remote turn on, it will save you a lot of time.
Had a question on the wiring. In step 20, you mention you reconnected he factory sub? Are you running both the factory sub and the aftermarket sub? Also for the wiring, I am using purple (positive) and brown (negative), it works fine, but should I use one vs the other. I read somewhere the sub may be wired in series with other speakers, not sure if that is the case.
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I'm hoping that somebody like JL builds a sub for the Model 3. I had one in my old car that fit perfectly in a similar space like we have in the left rear of the trunk.
When I find some free time... I'm going to design and build a specific sub woofer enclosure for the lower truck. May even sell a few once perfected!
I believe you use pioneer shallow 10” woofer. How does it sound? Does it reproduce very low 20-40 hz well?
Also can LOC be hooked up to a pre-amp wire instead of after. I presume it will be a cleaner signal.
silentsnow31802
Member
It sounds fine for me. I didnt want anything too crazy. I have not specifically measured what it sounds like at any specific frequencies.
We do not have usable pre amp signals. Its some sort of witchcraft the amp decodes and turns into speaker noises.
Thanks for the response. By the way if you use Spotify there is Audio Test Tones album by Audiolab. Could be an easy way to test it.
silentsnow31802
Member
I may do that this weekend. I have been meaning to use something similar to pinpoint a rattle. Keep forgetting about it until I get in the car and drive to work.
flashflooder
Member
the stock subwoofer peaks at around 45hz, and rolls off pretty significantly below that point. By the time you get to 30-35hz, the signal is barely audible (but it is there). I used the LC2i to boost the low end, and it turned out pretty well. It's not perfect, because I hate using bass boost on principle, but it's the best we're gonna get (for now, at least).
I wonder if connecting the stock sub to the new amp via LC2i would add missing 20-40hz?
flashflooder
Member
That's what I'm saying it does. It basically boosts the "barely audible", attenuated signal.
If you're talking about actually running the stock sub at these lower levels, I wouldn't recommend it. It's probably not designed to withstand that much power at those levels.
Settings I’ve done to improve the bass. I have a 12" rockford P3 in a ported box connected to a rockford 500.1 mono amp.
I noticed it is best to set the bass to the lowest setting on the car. So set the bass to -8. If the bass is set higher, I noticed the extra low bass (20-35hz) is way too low compared to higher bass (40hz and up). I connected a multimeter to the LOC and did some testing. Best results are if you set your bass to -8 on the car for the flattest response. It is still not flat, but much better than if its higher.
Do not use the bass boost setting on the amp. My rockford fosgate calls it the Punch and boosts at 45hz, the signal from the Tesla is the highest here, so additional boost here does not help the flattness curve.
Disconnect the factory sub. Running two subwoofers in the trunk runs into the risk of canceling out bass if the subwoofers are not playing constructively. You could try to mess with the phase switch, but with an aftermarket 10" or 12", it is just not necessary to use the factory sub.
Set the gain on your amp properly. Since the bass setting on the vehicle will be -8, you may need to raise the gain to where the sub blends in nicely to the rest of system.
I noticed it is best to set the bass to the lowest setting on the car. So set the bass to -8. If the bass is set higher, I noticed the extra low bass (20-35hz) is way too low compared to higher bass (40hz and up). I connected a multimeter to the LOC and did some testing. Best results are if you set your bass to -8 on the car for the flattest response. It is still not flat, but much better than if its higher.
Do not use the bass boost setting on the amp. My rockford fosgate calls it the Punch and boosts at 45hz, the signal from the Tesla is the highest here, so additional boost here does not help the flattness curve.
Disconnect the factory sub. Running two subwoofers in the trunk runs into the risk of canceling out bass if the subwoofers are not playing constructively. You could try to mess with the phase switch, but with an aftermarket 10" or 12", it is just not necessary to use the factory sub.
Set the gain on your amp properly. Since the bass setting on the vehicle will be -8, you may need to raise the gain to where the sub blends in nicely to the rest of system.
I decided to go for this shallow sub Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CyMSCb0Z182BY but when I compare to your sub in the picture yours looks visually smaller than given product size on amazon of 8.4x18.5x14.4. I would hate getting it and realizing it doesnt fit. Does your have a custom made enclosure or the actual size of the sub box is smaller than whats given?
silentsnow31802
Member
The one you linked is the same exact one I have in my car and the same one in the picture. No custom enclosures here.
For those coming from an S, you can simply play a file of a frequency, starting at 20Hz and see how poor the 3 sounds at low frequency.
Good thread, I appreciate the ideas -- But doesnt sound like 100% resolved if it is safe to tape 12V under seat or not - Can anyone say it isnt what caused the error on screen with confidence? It sure seems safe place..
Good thread, I appreciate the ideas -- But doesnt sound like 100% resolved if it is safe to tape 12V under seat or not - Can anyone say it isnt what caused the error on screen with confidence? It sure seems safe place..
Lived in Charlotte for close to 30 years, great city. I'm curious as to what this LC2i device is you're talking about, and how I'd go about getting one installed? Just took delivery of my M3 2 weeks ago, and while the premium sound system sounds great, the sub in the trunk is barely even audible, looking for a quick way to boost it until I can figure out a more audiophile-oriented solution. Open the trunk, and it's fairly decent sounding when you stick your head in. Close the trunk, it may as well not even exist inside the cabin in the front seats. From what I've read about the device you mentioned, seems like it'll at least boost it enough to somewhat hear inside.
SquirtCow
Father, Geek, DJ
Hi! Interesting thread! A few questions;
1. Does the Model 3 OEM Head Unit give line-outs for the subwoofer? If so, is it pre- or post filter?
2. Are there any specs on the OEM subwoofer amp and speaker element?
1. Does the Model 3 OEM Head Unit give line-outs for the subwoofer? If so, is it pre- or post filter?
2. Are there any specs on the OEM subwoofer amp and speaker element?
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