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You have an outdoor HPWC connected to smurf tube (ENT)? Or is that some other type of watertight conduit? Most inspectors I know would shoot that down right away (ENT doesn't have UV protection nor physical damage protection, and isn't listed for outdoor use).
Also, some earlier retrofits had an insulating card between the two fuses, was yours provided with one?
Also, some earlier retrofits had an insulating card between the two fuses, was yours provided with one?
I asked my service manager for them when I saw from this thread that it looked like they were available.
That said, I got my HPWC through my service manager (instead of direct from Tesla or as part of the purchase of the car), and as a result it appears I'm not getting updates automatically (e.g. the cable hanger).
Just spoke to the Rockville SC. They ordered the replacement fuses for me 10 days ago. They received one fuse, but not both or the new bracket. I guess they won't be coming out on Monday. I'm surprised the replacement parts aren't bundled into a kit with a single SKU.
Similar story at the Menlo Park service center. They have one of the fuses in stock, but not the other. I had the hanger mailed to me without making any special request.
A little bit off topic but I've requested a copy of the HPWC installation guide and instead I've got a PDF of HPWC leaflet. The interesting part is that the unit pictured in the leaflet was in red. Have you seen those?
Mayhemm
Model S P85+ "Lola"
Just as an FYI. You can get the new fuses (JJN-200) to work with the original bus bar in the same orientation if you cut away some of the "ribbing" on the inside of the HPWC housing. This gives just enough room for the larger fuse. Also I would place some insulating material (teflon, Kapton tape, etc) between the fuses and over the top fuse touching the HPWC cover.
There was a theory that part of the problem may have been that since heat rises, there was a buildup of heat at the top of the fuse when vertically oriented. I sort of wonder if continuing to mount them vertically would eventually cause a failure.
Frankly I believe that theory is wrong. There are many reasons for that. Conduction is the main mechanism for heat transfer here. Also the system is enclosed. Now because of that the temp could get high enough to cause a problem....lets see how the new fuses hold up.
I'd never rule out heat as the cause of failure in electronics but find it a little odd that the fix is to replace 100A fuses with 150A fuses when the device is max rated for a 100A circuit. When the heck would that fuse ever blow before the breaker popped? I wouldn't be surprised if this is the modern equivalent of putting a penny in the fuse holder... Note that I'm not implying it's unsafe but rather that the fusing the HPWC is a bit of belt and suspenders with the fuse becoming a high profile failure point. Look for the redesigned HPWC to have no fuses at all.
The first thing wrong with that hypothesis is that heat doesn't rise. Warm air (or other gases and fluids) rises but heat radiates in all directions, or conducts along a surface. No way that's going to be correct.
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