Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

[zghome]

Delivery issues:
1. Carpet was misfit against center console. Fixed by mobile
2. Driver's side door gasket came out when I opened the door for the first time. Fixed by me
3. Center console door wouldn't latch open. Fixed by SC after nearly two months to get parts (replaced entire center console)
4. Center console shift bar doesn't work. Going to visit SC tomorrow
5. Charge port door doesn't open with any charging handle (home or charger or supercharger). Works fine with app or with controls on dash display. Going to visit SC tomorrow
6. See previous note on rear driver's side rattle. Still present.
7. Tiny window on passenger's door was loose and leaking. Fixed by SC.

What's going to happen when the warranty period expires?

 

[supervelous]

Also getting the bump and loud noises as if I ran over some debris when the wheel is turned hard and especially in reverse. Let me know what you all find out, and I will do the same. Model S LR Refresh

 

[KalJoMoS]

If you widen your wheel (as Plaid model would do) then it’s good to read this discussion as well. It’s all normal if the conditions described there will apply.

 

[PDawg]

If you widen your wheel (as Plaid model would do) then it’s good to read this discussion as well. It’s all normal if the conditions described there will apply.

Ahhh, and they put on summer tires (f 265/r 295) for this sucker sold in Chicagoland in the late fall. Thanks Tesla!

 

[joetr360]

Lost all autopilot and cruise control capabilities!

Looks like a potential radar sensor issue, I tried a hard reboot but it looks like there may be a sensor obstruction somewhere on the passenger sensor. I noticed the one in front of the passenger wheelwell is semi-exposed? Could debris get behind that area and give a false obstruction? I'm 200 miles away from home and can't even put cruise control on!

 

[KalJoMoS]

No, I don’t think so. That circle you see is the sealing of the sensor to sit thigh on the panel, only possible issue could be with the wires behind it. Or the sensor/face plate is damaged/obstructed

 

[joetr360]

No, I don’t think so. That circle you see is the sealing of the sensor to sit thigh on the panel, only possible issue could be with the wires behind it. Or the sensor/face plate is damaged/obstructed

I think I found the issue unrelated to this. My front bumper has been re-pained 3 times due to overspray and I wanted a smooth clear coat to have PPF applied to it. There is a radar sensor that is calibrated to work with <300 micron thickness (12mm) on the front bumper. Due to numerous coatings, it's thrown off the radar and my autopilot is still non-operating until I can get it scheduled to be sanded and repainted, or have the bumper replaced https://rts.i-car.com/images/pdf/oem-info/tesla/body-repair-tech-notes/33400.pdf

 

[Neil007]

Completely reproducible on my plaids. Driveway/street is clear. Addressing with service.

Same issue on the Model S refreshed with 21” wheels picked up on Dec 10th. Was service able to address this for you? Its completely unacceptable to have weird thump/thud sounds and skipping. Will appreciate any input you can provide from your service visit. Thanks

 

[cartwright]

I am getting a buzzing sound out of the from camera (behind rear view mirror) that sounds almost exactly like the yoke buzz. Anyone else?

 

[sbradbury]

less than 2000 miles on this plaid S and the dash sounds like this my 2015 S was so much quieter

 

[cwanja]

less than 2000 miles on this plaid S and the dash sounds like this my 2015 S was so much quieter

Sounds like an HVAC fan or mechanism is broke or spinning and scraping on something.

 

[sbradbury]

Sounds like an HVAC fan or mechanism is broke or spinning and scraping on something.

sort of does sound like that, but it definitely corresponds to bumps in the road and doesn't change at all with the HVAC settings.

 

[vberber]

2021 model s here, has anyone had issues early morning driving off trying to use turn signals on the yoke (mainly right) they are inoperable possibly in cold mornings? Then later they work again like normal.

 

[Sances]

The microphone activation switch on my 2020 MS steering wheel has failed - FOUR TIMES. Twice the failure has involved all three switches on the right hand side (plus the horn), and twice it's just the upper button which enables voice commands. I have a Ranger scheduled to come to my house for repairs in a few weeks. Have any of you had repetitive problems with the steering wheel switches?

Yes, I've replaced mine twice to date. Both in the last three months. I've owned the car 15 months. Mobile fixed once, took it in to service the second time (actually it happened after being serviced for something else so I turned around and went back).

 

[JediJD]

Lane change shudder/judder and charge port oddities. After about 1000m my 2022 MSLR is awesome, amazing and I'm a happy camper. The only time I even think about the yoke is when I'm moving between cars, then there is a minute or two of "Huh?" before I'm back in my comfort range. Two oddities and a comment. And I've tried to research these but haven't found duplicates.

1. I get a pronounced judder/shudder that feels like a wobbly tire (no, it isn't lane haptics) when I cross a highway median line or a small expansion joint. I can't isolate the wheel and every other time the car is solid and smooth. Just odd. It acts almost like lug nuts are loose...the shudder is that pronounced, but I've gone back and checked and they seem to be torqued properly. I have a service request...but any thoughts?​

2. My 2017 spoiled me with the charge port. I used my wall charger, got close, hit the button on the wand and the port opened. The MSLR...not so much. IF the car is awake, and IF I hold the wand right next to the port and IF I sacrifice a goat and the moon is full, the port opens when I hit the button. The Ranger came out and checked and said it is operating within specs...that the older model set off neighboring charge ports so everything was throttled back as far as broadcast reception in the refresh...but pressing the charge cover just isn't the same thing. That being said, it is blisteringly fast to charge at Superchargers...wow!​

3. Comment...the yoke seems much more responsive to touch. I travel long distances on lightly traveled highways, and hate the nag. We can disagree on solutions but I was very comfortable with a weight on limited occasion. The 2017 seemed to take about a pound of force in one direction or the other to satisfy the nag sensor, but the yoke seems to take a much smaller amount. Lightly resting my hand on the yoke horizontal plane seems to do the trick...and I'm thinking it is taking just a few ounces of input to satisfy the response requirements. It is so light that a weight seems unnecessary (plus there aren't any elegant ones yet). Just my $.02​

 

[cwanja]

The Ranger came out and checked and said it is operating within specs...that the older model set off neighboring charge ports so everything was throttled back as far as broadcast reception in the refresh...but pressing the charge cover just isn't the same thing. That being said, it is blisteringly fast to charge at Superchargers...wow!

That is pretty false. I can hold my charge cable near the middle of the trunk as I unwind the cable, press the button and the port opens. I did have some intermittent issues a few weeks / month ago where it was not opening regularly and actually first started at a Supercharger. But a few software updates and reboots late and it seems resolved or was never an issue to begin with.

Admittedly, I rarely prepare to charge while the car is asleep and rather plug-in right when I get home. But there is a long history of people having issues with the charge port not opening with the HPWC handles and thus getting the charge port wiring hardness replaced. Keep pushing this.

 

[wally5788]

Has anyone found a real solution to the “wind whistle” that occurs around the driver side window?? Well documented on others youtube reviews but haven’t found a solution yet. It becomes apparent at 70+ MPH and is super annoying! I have already had my entire door seal replaced but it still occurs. I am wondering now whether the driver side mirror is creating the sound…there are small gaps around the top assembly (where the mirror pivots) that I suppose could cause the noise.

 

[JRP3]

I am wondering now whether the driver side mirror is creating the sound…there are small gaps around the top assembly (where the mirror pivots) that I suppose could cause the noise.

Maybe cover them temporarily with electrical tape and see if the noise goes away or decreases. If not try the same with the window and door seams.

 

[kingkondo]

On the second day of MS LR ownership, I got a bunch of error messages telling me automatic emergency braking, regenerative braking, brake hold, traction control, and adaptive ride control were all disabled. The car was drivable, but the lack of brake hold made stopping on a hill a bit harrowing. The driver’s display showed the car at an angle the entire ride home too.

After I got home, I went back out to the car a few minutes later to take pictures of the error messages. The messages were there, but when I put the car in drive they went away. Haven’t taken the car back out yet (this was last night). I have an appointment with service on Saturday and will see if I can reproduce the errors before then.

 

[KalJoMoS]

Has anyone found a real solution to the “wind whistle” that occurs around the driver side window?? Well documented on others youtube reviews but haven’t found a solution yet. It becomes apparent at 70+ MPH and is super annoying! I have already had my entire door seal replaced but it still occurs. I am wondering now whether the driver side mirror is creating the sound…there are small gaps around the top assembly (where the mirror pivots) that I suppose could cause the noise.

I haven’t tried this yet but I did also got more appearance of the noise after the service changed broken upper door seal (that one that sits there by the roof line). The window now is pivoted more outwards and this is opening the sealing around this small triangular mirror glass. Try to find two rubber grommets on the lower part of the door, near the lower door sealing. Behind there are two fixing screws that can change the angle the door window slides. So with the change of the window angle you might be able to set the edge on the sealing more thigh…