Wiki Model X Reset Techniques

[SMSMD]

Pinch = hold the door with the fingers on the outside edge on the metal and the thumb on the inside kind of where the arrow is on the pic and press your hand in a pinching movement

That area I have circled moves in and out a bit..it's a large button disguised as the inside of the door. When it is pressed (when the door closes) the car knows to pull the window up and when it is released (when the door is open) the car knows to roll down the window a little.

Thank you so much...Good muscle conditioning..will be so weird in public

 

[ohmman]

That area I have circled moves in and out a bit..it's a large button disguised as the inside of the door. When it is pressed (when the door closes) the car knows to pull the window up and when it is released (when the door is open) the car knows to roll down the window a little.

Programmer 1: "How many times is reasonable for a window reset?"
Programmer 2: "You mean on something like the steering wheel buttons?"
Programmer 1: "No, no. Ha ha. On the hidden pinch button in the door that's used for the window."
Programmer 2: "I dunno, 5 times?"
Programmer 1: "Sounds good. 25 times it is."

 

[K-MTG]

Programmer 1: "How many times is reasonable for a window reset?"
Programmer 2: "You mean on something like the steering wheel buttons?"
Programmer 1: "No, no. Ha ha. On the hidden pinch button in the door that's used for the window."
Programmer 2: "I dunno, 5 times?"
Programmer 1: "Sounds good. 25 times it is."

Just booked tickets for @ohmman stand-up comedy show. I suggest you do the same.

 

[xkwizit]

I am taking the reservations $10/person. Hurry before the seats fill up.

 

[K-MTG]

I am taking the reservations $10/person. Hurry before the seats fill up.

I heard that at the end their will be a raffle for a custom sunshade.

 

[xkwizit]

Thank you so much...Good muscle conditioning..will be so weird in public

While getting into the Model S this morning, I wondered that it should be having a similar mechanism for the window glass. It does seem like there is a button hiding in the door likely in the soft rubber near the top edge of the door.

 

[Aljohn]

There actually is a window button incorporated in the latch mechanism. It is the small plastic piece in the picture below. If the door is open, pressing the plastic piece "in" (toward the v) makes the window regulator think the door is closed and raises the window to its full height. Be sure to pull it out before attempting to close the door, so its not broken. I think that is what they were indicating. This is how window tint installers move the window to its full up position with the door open.

 

[Fonguy]

Recent experience with front passenger door that would not close because a plastic actuator was stuck in a fully extended position that would not allow the car to latch:

1. With left hand insert small screwdriver (about 4 inch long shaft) into latch opening in the door all the way toward the outside of the door. Press the screwdriver to the right.

2. Press against the outside of the door with your right knee to keep it from moving.

3. With right hand press the outside door handle in the middle to make it click.

The actuator recesses itself back into the door and the may now be closed.

Software engineer 1. " What about having them do something with the left leg?"
Software engineer 2. "So they will fall down? Great idea. Consider it done."

 

[Rdainer]

anyone have a reset technique for the spoiler?

 

[ssq]

Methods for resetting various features in the Model X:
Front Door Windows Calibration

Method 1
With the door closed, roll the window all the way down with a "soft click" (not the full down click). Hold the window down for at least 5 seconds after it is fully closed.
Roll the window back up with a soft click (not full up) and hold the window all the way up for at least 5 seconds.
​

Window tinted - failed calibration and glass hit door surface, door wont close and car beeps/alarms.
Did the above once and back in business. Thanks!

 

[systemcrashed]

anyone have a reset technique for the spoiler?

I wouldn't necessarily call this a reset technique, but this worked for me when my spoiler acted up once.

The active spoiler has three physical positions it can be in while set to active in settings, retracted (car off and locked), partially extended (speeds over 45mph), and fully extended (car unlocked, in park or driving less than 45mph or in reverse). It has two physical positions when in the extended mode in settings, retracted (car off and locked) and fully extended (car unlocked and all driving speeds)

When my spoiler acted up I noticed the fully extended and partially extended modes were reversed, and when the car was locked it would stay in the partially extended position and not fully retract.

To me, it seemed like the system was off by one step, so to correct it I had to teach it where it was. In the settings for the spoiler there are two options, extended and active. I switched it from active to extended while parked (the spoiler was already in the partially extended position) nothing changed but I knew the system thought it was already in the extended position since the car was on and it was parked, so I switched back to active mode and I proceeded to drive, once I reached a constant speed greater than 45mph the spoiler fully extended, so I changed the settings to extended at that moment and performed a scrollwheel reset meanwhile maintaining my speed above 45mph. When the system came back up I made sure the settings still said it was in the extended mode and the spoiler was still fully extended. I then slowed down and parked the car and locked with the fob, it fully retracted as it should and fully extended when I unlocked. So I returned the settings back to active and all was nominal.

This only happened once, I have not been able to confirm that it is a true reset technique. If your spoiler is reversed feel free to try and report back. Btw, this was while on firmware ver 2.24.30

If your spoiler is stuck in the fully retracted position and you are on a more current firmware 2.24.86 or later, I would try the scrollwheel reset with the rear hatch open, since the spoiler would be in the correct physical position but not recognizing it.

 

[Gwgan]

My spoiler setting is only available when in Park. If I change it to Ectended it changes back to Automatic on gear selection.

 

[Rdainer]

I ended up having to go to the SC for a "recalibration" - it was quick just took 30 minutes

 

[jeffreys]

Regarding falcon wing doors: Today, in high heat, both falcon wing doors refused to open. 3 beeps, whether the opening was attempted from the b-pillar switch, the exterior door switch, the touch screen, or the key fob. Push and hold on the touch screen didn't help. The doors were not partially opened. They were fully closed and latched. After being on the phone with Tesla support, here's what did help:

1.) On the b pillar interior switch hold the switch down for about 3 seconds. The FWD cracked open an inch or two. At this point, it was still non-responsive to the touch screen.
2.) Again on the b pillar interior switch, hold the switch down for about 3 second. The FWD closed.

After this the FWD responded normally to all control inputs. I had to repeat this procedure on the other side of the car.

 

[bobbykansara]

Does anyone have a reset technique for the audio/comms system?

Here are a few of the odd things my audio system is doing in the past few days (steering wheel scroll wheel reset technique does not help):

- cannot skip to next track. Next/previous buttons do not work regardless of the audio input: slacker; iPhone via Bluetooth, etc.

- slacker plays one song and then freezes.

- slacker and Bluetooth connection skip.

- slacker via wi-fi seems to work, but when I drive away from home, and the LTE connection should take over, the signal drops and the song freezes/slacker hangs.

Anyone else experience this or know how to reset to fix it?

 

[systemcrashed]

Does anyone have a reset technique for the audio/comms system?

Here are a few of the odd things my audio system is doing in the past few days (steering wheel scroll wheel reset technique does not help):

- cannot skip to next track. Next/previous buttons do not work regardless of the audio input: slacker; iPhone via Bluetooth, etc.

- slacker plays one song and then freezes.

- slacker and Bluetooth connection skip.

- slacker via wi-fi seems to work, but when I drive away from home, and the LTE connection should take over, the signal drops and the song freezes/slacker hangs.

Anyone else experience this or know how to reset to fix it?

I had this problem, it was related to the Tesla account login info for slacker. Check your settings/apps section. Log out then hit restore account. Had to do it a few times. Tech support can help you with this.

 

[Sigsegv]

Recently had my windows tinted, and needed to have my front windows calibrated. I ended up calling the Tampa Service Center, and they walked my tint guy through a modified Method #1...

1. Open Door.
2. Open Window Fully.
3. Close Door.
4. Inch window all the way up (Do not use the auto up).
5. Hold window switch full up for 30 seconds.
6. Repeat.

After the first cycle of the above sequence, the window dropped 4-6 inches when opening the door. We repeated the steps probably about 5 times, until the window dropped the correct amount. I had my tint guy do it, so that if the tint got messed up, he would re-tint the window.

Anyhow, just sharing my recent experience.

 

[Saxena]

Recently had my windows tinted, and needed to have my front windows calibrated. I ended up calling the Tampa Service Center, and they walked my tint guy through a modified Method #1...

Thanks so much @Sigsegv for sharing this! Saved us an early morning stop at the service center as we head out on a road trip tomorrow. Our window was stuck half-way up and wouldn't go any further. We also had to follow the steps you listed about 5 or 6 times for the window to stop going down 4-6 inches.

 

[Darryl]

I have had both driver and passenger wind noise problems since taking initial delivery ((January/February) over the last almost six months it has been in for service 4 of the 6 months. The last time it was in they replaced the windows and door seals. Even though not perfect the wind noise was to a reasonable level. I was so happy as I thought Tesla would never resolve this problem. This was two weeks ago.

Then a new problem has started after the last software update (Late July). Normally when the door shuts the window lowers about an inch and then after shutting it raises back to make a seal. It no longer does this and therefore the window is hitting the top frame and not sealing. I have tried lowering the Window with the door closed but when it reaches the top it automatically lowers on its own. This is sporadic and at times it works great and other it hits the frame. I am worried that the window is going to break. I have tried recalibrating as indicated in this post with no luck.

After reading the other postings it looks like to me this has happened to others probably related to the lastest software upgrade. Hopefully if anyone from Tesla is reading this post they can make the appropriate group aware the last update has caused a problem.

 

[systemcrashed]

I have had both driver and passenger wind noise problems since taking initial delivery ((January/February) over the last almost six months it has been in for service 4 of the 6 months. The last time it was in they replaced the windows and door seals. Even though not perfect the wind noise was to a reasonable level. I was so happy as I thought Tesla would never resolve this problem. This was two weeks ago.

Then a new problem has started after the last software update (Late July). Normally when the door shuts the window lowers about an inch and then after shutting it raises back to make a seal. It no longer does this and therefore the window is hitting the top frame and not sealing. I have tried lowering the Window with the door closed but when it reaches the top it automatically lowers on its own. This is sporadic and at times it works great and other it hits the frame. I am worried that the window is going to break. I have tried recalibrating as indicated in this post with no luck.

After reading the other postings it looks like to me this has happened to others probably related to the lastest software upgrade. Hopefully if anyone from Tesla is reading this post they can make the appropriate group aware the last update has caused a problem.

Sounds like your window has lost calibration. Follow the window recalibration steps in the Reset thread. There is more than one way to do this. Doing a good calibration will also reduce wind noise since the glass can be set to push on the seal harder when closing.