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Model Y Performance 21" Tires - Larger, More Comfortable Fitment Details and Experience - Michelin AS4's (With Photos)

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Went ahead with the 40s yesterday and have to say that visually they are incredible. I was a little worried that being an older driver, I wouldn't like the look of them but honestly pics do not do it justice. Haven't driven them enough to comment on ride quality or battery usage yet, but so far I'm really pleased with them.
 
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Went ahead with the 40s yesterday and have to say that visually they are incredible. I was a little worried that being an older driver, I wouldn't like the look of them but honestly pics do not do it justice. Haven't driven them enough to comment on ride quality or battery usage yet, but so far I'm really pleased with them.
Looks awesome! I get asked at superchargers all the time about them.
 
It’s not about larger or smaller tires, it’s about the delta between front and rear, or left to right for that matter. I’m curious if there is a potential binding issue or does the computer manage the delta for you?
You're overthinking it. the difference isnt big enough to have a noticable impact. get an alignment and there is no problem. I drive like a madman on windy mountain roads and highways as well as snow/rain/mud traction control is perfect, suspension is perfect. everything is in good shape with my car after running through a full set of these in 37k miles. wear was even too.
 
You're overthinking it. the difference isnt big enough to have a noticable impact. get an alignment and there is no problem. I drive like a madman on windy mountain roads and highways as well as snow/rain/mud traction control is perfect, suspension is perfect. everything is in good shape with my car after running through a full set of these in 37k miles. wear was even too.
Alignment has nothing to do with it. It’s about how the car functions to keep the wheels spinning at the correct rate. What you’re suggesting would prove detrimental on many vehicles with traditional transfer cases.

And the impact wouldn’t be noticeable, but it could prove to have a negative effect.

If you go in for warranty work for your drive unit(s) at some point and they realize that your motors had to spin at a different ratio front to rear, than what is programmed/expected, you might not be able to defend your claim.
 
Alignment has nothing to do with it. It’s about how the car functions to keep the wheels spinning at the correct rate. What you’re suggesting would prove detrimental on many vehicles with traditional transfer cases.

And the impact wouldn’t be noticeable, but it could prove to have a negative effect.

If you go in for warranty work for your drive unit(s) at some point and they realize that your motors had to spin at a different ratio front to rear, than what is programmed/expected, you might not be able to defend your claim.
Weird hill you are fighting on.. To be strictly speaking, as long as each drive unit has similarly sized wheels it will be fine.

Ergo, as long as your left and right is same model size, you'll be alright. Model y doesn't have mechanical linkage in middle connecting front axle to rear.

To reiterate, Model Y is fine if front and rear tire sizes are little different. If you swap out tires, just reset learned tire setting and have fun driving. Small differences are within design boundary condition.

So you are right about worrying about 'what is programmed/expected' and let me assure you, that the margin is fairly wide.
 
If I were to go for Pirelli P zero 295 35 21 whice would you choose? Looking on tirerack all of these are made specifically for other branded cars. Eg. Porsche, BMW, Maserati etc.
Thanks
I wouldn't. Pirellis will give you half the milage. they are not great tires unless youre on perfect freeways 100% of the time, or using them for track.

edit: pirellis arent bad tires. Their rubber is just softer. Michelin AS4's are one of the best tires you can currently buy for all road conditions, and you'll get 35k+ miles out of them. I dont now anyone who is as hard on tires as me and I get 27k this last set. replaced at 3/32. could of made it to 40k if I wanted to

But if it's requiring you to put in a car that has that size OEM, I had to select "2021 JAGUAR F-PACE SVR" for the 295s. when I showed up with my Tesla they dint have a problem with it. just made me sign a thing saying im aware that the 295 isnt the OEM fit for my vehicle.
 
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I dont know if it's the new beta version, or that the car thinks its going slower than it is, but ive noticed that on AP/FSDbeta, it is taking turns a little wider and sometimes touches the lines on the outer edge of the turn if im going above 50mph. I'm pretty sure it's the speed issue.
@Raurele , you still noticing the above or was the issue more related to FSD Beta version and the issue went away after some updates?
 
Weird hill you are fighting on.. To be strictly speaking, as long as each drive unit has similarly sized wheels it will be fine.

Ergo, as long as your left and right is same model size, you'll be alright. Model y doesn't have mechanical linkage in middle connecting front axle to rear.

To reiterate, Model Y is fine if front and rear tire sizes are little different. If you swap out tires, just reset learned tire setting and have fun driving. Small differences are within design boundary condition.

So you are right about worrying about 'what is programmed/expected' and let me assure you, that the margin is fairly wide.
How can you assure that? I know a lot of folks are running non factory staggered sizes, but I haven’t seen evidence that’s it’s, in Tesla terms, within spec.

I agree, with no mechanical link, there’s a good chance it’s safe, but I’m just wondering how much delta is ‘okay’.

If the car has any traction control, then it does check for specific ratio of wheel speed variation. This is where the limits start to come into play. The car could potentially be fighting it, constantly in a warning state. While I agree that it’s likely within spec, since it’s not reducing power on anyone, you likely closer to the point where it will start to engage a traction management algorithm.
 
So I've been trying to keep up with this thread and I see two primary variations in upsizing that people are doing. Trying to summarize:

StockOption A ("Upsize")Option B ("Supersize")
Front255/35/21275/35/21 (moved from OEM rear)265/40/21
Rear275/35/21295/35/21295/40/21
NotesIncreases sidewall height 0.27" and width 0.78" (rears)Increases sidewall height 0.86" and width 0.78" (rears)
Pros1. Better ride?
2. More "full"/square look on rims (less rubber band look)
3. Minimal (<1%) impact to speedo measurement
1. Great ride?
2. Visual heft/fills out wheel wells
Cons1. Ride isn't great
2. Tires look like rubber bands stretched over the rims
1. $$1. Significant (6%) speedo inaccuracy (reading 70 = 74.2)
2. $$$$

Does that about sum it up?

I actually am not sure I've seen direct comments on ride quality from people who have done Option A (Upsize), but maybe I just missed it because sometimes I'm trying to piece together comments across multiple posts to figure out who did what. The Supersize folks have definitely made it clear it improved ride quality significantly.
Is this the current consensus?
I just picked up a 23 MYP and I’m concerned about getting my rims getting curbed in NYC. I was thinking of something thicker to protect them…what’s the best move?