MPP Coilover installation verification

[CoolBuddy]

I just had MPP Comfort Adjustable Coilovers installed on my 2018 Tesla Model 3 Performance. I wonder if they actually made any adjustments so wanted to verify they configured to the recommended initial spec for my car. What are some simple things I can do on my own? It seems to me the car is sitting lower than expected and I noticed it bouncing going down the freeway a little when going 75 MPH. When going 60, I didn't notice any bouncing.

Here is a picture with it lowered. Note it is on 245/45R18 tires so the wheel diameter is slightly larger. The height from the ground to the jack point is now 3" front and back. I believe it was around 5" before and the recommended settings would only lower it about 0.5" roughly if I remember correctly. Does that sound like they maybe forgot an important step or selected the wrong settings from the page?

I figure I'll call MPP tomorrow (as well as probably the garage and ask them to make the adjustments and realign for me but want to know I'm not crazy here.

 

[CoolBuddy]

Ok, I have another issue as well. How bad is it if they obviously didn't use a puck and the hole normally used for a puck is torn? I'm really nervous about what this damage done to the jack point. Sorry it is so blurry. I had a hard time taking the picture. The others are undamaged.

 

[puffdaddy]

That is definitely lower than the recommended setting from MPP! They say to shoot for 4" battery height to ground to make sure you are still get the full range of damping from the shock. Raising it an inch would be a necessity it you have any speed bumps or steep driveway inclines.

Have you tried to adjust the damper settings on the shock? The MPP page has starting points on how many clicks from full firm they recommend. Even if you're not mechanically inclined, you can check that (and adjust to taste later if needed). I have the MPP sports adjusted very firm and don't have any high-speed bounciness. Hit a bump...one down and one up then flat. Perfect damping. Don't worry, Jesse will get you, or the shop, shorted out.

The jack point is concerning...I honestly don't know what can be done about it, but I wouldn't be happy

 

[MP3Mike]

Ok, I have another issue as well. How bad is it if they obviously didn't use a puck and the hole normally used for a puck is torn? I'm really nervous about what this damage done to the jack point. Sorry it is so blurry. I had a hard time taking the picture. The others are undamaged.View attachment 841704

Are you sure that it wasn't already like that? It looks more like someone used it as a tie down point when towing the vehicle.

 

[CoolBuddy]

Are you sure that it wasn't already like that? It looks more like someone used it as a tie down point when towing the vehicle.

I'm relatively certain it was this shop, but I didn't inspect after Firestone replaced one of the TPMS sensors. It goes to show that it is important to 1. Always remember to put the pucks in the front seat where they can't miss them 2. Take photo evidence before the appointment and 3. Inspect after the appointment.

I DID put the pucks in the front seat at the last Firestone visit and the one before that. I do know that they were undamaged before that. But I don't have any proof. So I'm not going to pursue any legal action against them, but if I have to submit an insurance claim, I'll definitely present all the facts and let them do whatever they want.

I suspect with the puck pressed in there, it should get enough distribution of weight when lifted to not be a major issue, but I'm not a structural engineer either haha.

 

[Lindenwood]

“Bouncy” to me sounds like they could increase the rebound damping a bit. If you have a jack, you can lift the rear of the car (from the jack points) and turn the knobs toward the “+” a few clicks. But, the real best answer is to ask @MountainPass as they have been very responsive to my inquiries.

Honestly for a shop to booger your jack point up that much—or not even notice and report if it was indeed already like that—makes me a bit nervous about how much care they put into it.

But yes, you should be more like 3.7-3.9” to the jack points at MPP recommended settings (about 4.2” to the bottom of the battery near the jack points further inboard).

 

[CoolBuddy]

I knew something didn't seem quite right and should've occurred to me when I picked it up, but I had just rushed there to pick it up at the end of the day. I think the height is a dead giveaway. By battery height, is that height between jack point and ground?

 

[CoolBuddy]

But yes, you should be more like 3.7-3.9” to the jack points at MPP recommended settings (about 4.2” to the bottom of the battery near the jack points further inboard).

I was looking at the settings for the battery height and wondering if that is from the jack points. I'll get clarity tomorrow, but also of note is that I have aftermarket wheels with 245/45R18. It references factory 18s, which I think are 235/45R18 so the diameter increase is 0.4" for my tires, which should lift the battery by 0.2" while also bringing the tire 0.2" closer to the top of the wheel wheel if I'm not mistaken, so I think I should probably adjust down by 5 millimeter on the battery spec, not sure about the hub spec. Again, I'll talk with Jesse tomorrow. I've talked with him a couple times and he's been great.

 

[Lindenwood]

I was looking at the settings for the battery height and wondering if that is from the jack points. I'll get clarity tomorrow, but also of note is that I have aftermarket wheels with 245/45R18. It references factory 18s, which I think are 235/45R18 so the diameter increase is 0.4" for my tires, which should lift the battery by 0.2" while also bringing the tire 0.2" closer to the top of the wheel wheel if I'm not mistaken, so I think I should probably adjust down by 5 millimeter on the battery spec, not sure about the hub spec. Again, I'll talk with Jesse tomorrow. I've talked with him a couple times and he's been great.

Ah, didn’t catch that. Yes, you would adjust for more like 113mm or so on the battery-to-ground measurement (0.2” higher). This puts the damper at its recommended height range.

 

[MountainPass]

I would definitely check the damper settings yourself, as shops often adjust them backward or assume that they are preset when they are packed in the box! The lowering amount if the shop followed the instructions would be 0.7 inches.

Here is a video explaining which way to turn them, and yes, we get this question a lot

The battery height is measured near the jack points, but on the flat portion of the battery, not the jack point itself.

Let us know if you have any other questions and email is best, we only check here a few times a day!

 

[CoolBuddy]

Thanks for all your help. It doesn't seem to be exactly the right height from the suggested, but it is relatively close - about 4.75" via tape measure. That's much better in Ohio than 3" I cranked up the rear of the car and made the adjustments to the rears. Will have to get my impact driver and sockets back from a friend to adjust the fronts (to remove the frunk plastic to get to the adjustment points). I personally like this look better than when it is way lower. It feels off somehow to me when the gap above is so much lower than the gap on the right and left of the wheel. This looks more natural imho.

Now I just need to get it wrapped and tinted for the 63,000 mile makeover to be complete haha.

 

[subieworx]

What part of Ohio are you in? If you need some help with the car I own a performance shop in Cincinnati that does a lot of work on Teslas. I have the same coilovers on my personal Model 3 that I track regularly and know the cars very well. Let me know if I can help.

I have deviated a bit on the ride height settings on my coilovers in that I am about .25" lower in the front that recommended. Works fine for me, but I have the car corner balanced specifically for the handling I am after. On the street I run compression and rebound at full soft and find that is the most comfortable.

 

[CoolBuddy]

What part of Ohio are you in?

I'm in Norwalk (just south of Sandusky). It seems rhe shop did make the adjustments correctly the second pass, but it did seem to be off on one of them so it was good I got the jack out.

When the snow and ice come around, I want to ensure I have decent clearance. I may switch it up when switching out my snow and all seasons though starting this spring and lower a little more in the spring and max height when. Putting the snow tires on. That will cost me two alignments a year but may not be.a bad idea to get alignment done more frequently anyway.

 

[TacoSteve]

Thanks for all your help. It doesn't seem to be exactly the right height from the suggested, but it is relatively close - about 4.75" via tape measure. That's much better in Ohio than 3" I cranked up the rear of the car and made the adjustments to the rears. Will have to get my impact driver and sockets back from a friend to adjust the fronts (to remove the frunk plastic to get to the adjustment points). I personally like this look better than when it is way lower. It feels off somehow to me when the gap above is so much lower than the gap on the right and left of the wheel. This looks more natural imho.

Now I just need to get it wrapped and tinted for the 63,000 mile makeover to be complete haha.
View attachment 841972

If you changed the height you are going to need to do another alignment. Toe and Camber will change.

 

[CoolBuddy]

If you changed the height you are going to need to do another alignment. Toe and Camber will change.

The shop fixed the height and did another alignment.