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MPP Front Rotors

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BBK is Big Brake Kit? If the rotors are larger, then what did you use for the larger calipers? I see they are red, are they performance calipers? Did you buy them off ebay or something?

Looks good!
Those are the standard calipers, they just get pushed out via machined aluminum brackets to fit the larger rotors. She has stock silver calipers painted red.
 
Does upgrading the rotors and pads make the P3D Stealth as performant on the track as the P3D with PUP (track mode aside since who knows we might get it someday)?

I can only say this - I've tracked a bunch of different cars, with and w/o upgrades. Aside from pure racing, what I found I needed to have fun, be safe and keep the car in one piece was:

- appropriate tires, properly inflated and in good shape
- appropriate brake pads, brake fluid reasonably fresh
- appropriate brake cooling
- car well maintained in general, stuff can't be falling off ;)

TL;DR

I've tracked a little turbo Fiat, it needed mildly better pads to make it last a day at Laguna Seca cause it's so light and even with chipping, not super fast. It did do it's best to eat some front tires..

My Audi TT Quattro needed Stoptech big brakes up front with racing pads and racing pads out back - it was a heavy car that just trashed the stock pads and stock floating calipers up front couldn't take the heat. One track day w/o these upgrades and there was literally nothing left out back (metal on metal) and tremendous brake fade keeping the fun down.. the front caliper dust seals looked kinda shaky as well..

Also took an A4 Avant (Audi's are heavy cars) to Lime Rock and it trashed it's brakes too; the cheap upgrade of the day was putting A8 front rotors on it and good pads all around, then it could survive an HOD day.. big difference..

Our race VW Golf was mostly gutted (so lightened) and it used stock brake calipers, upgraded (heat treated but stock size) rotors and racing (Porterfield) brake pads. That car was a hoot..

I wouldn't take the car on the track with the stock 18" tires though, they'd be chunked up too much too soon I'm thinking..
 
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Does upgrading the rotors and pads make the P3D Stealth as performant on the track as the P3D with PUP (track mode aside since who knows we might get it someday)?

Not quite, but you likely wont really notice the difference unless you're pushing the limits of the car and have stickier tires on.

Remember that tires determine your maximum potential braking force, so with something unaggressive it's fairly likely that the P3D- brake calipers are plenty strong enough. With a more aggressive tire, i'd bet that the P3D+ brake calipers start to have an impact on braking power and stopping distance - though the difference in lap time from this isn't going to be massive.

As @Msjulie said, you will get the most gain and fun from changing fluid, pads and rotors (in that order IMO).
 
Does upgrading the rotors and pads make the P3D Stealth as performant on the track as the P3D with PUP (track mode aside since who knows we might get it someday)?
I would say yes and even more performant if you also replaced the tires and wheels.

According to Sasha at MPP, the caliper differences between the P3D+ and P3D- are very small. Both are Brembo 4 piston calipers. They both have similar if not equal stopping power. The only difference is in heat management. The P3D+ with its larger rotors dissipate heat better than the P3D- stock rotors so they experience less brake fade on continuous use. The MPP rotors are bigger (365mm) than the P3D+ stock rotors.They are also slotted, vented, and lighter. So they stay cooler thwarting brake fade even better than the P3D+ rotors.

But to put that stopping power to the ground, you'll need better tires comparable to the Michelin PS4 that come with the P3D+ or better. And lighter wheels will also help. Getting some light 19" (minimum diameter to clear MPP rotors) will actually be better than the heavy 20" that come with the P3D+.
 
Both are Brembo 4 piston calipers. They both have similar if not equal stopping power. The only difference is in heat management.

That's not quite true though, they are both 4 piston but that doesn't mean the pistons/pads are the same size. The pad is definitely larger and that's one reason why we haven't seen any aftermarket ones from MPP yet (though UP has one and its bigger).
 
I would say yes and even more performant if you also replaced the tires and wheels.

According to Sasha at MPP, the caliper differences between the P3D+ and P3D- are very small. Both are Brembo 4 piston calipers. They both have similar if not equal stopping power. The only difference is in heat management. The P3D+ with its larger rotors dissipate heat better than the P3D- stock rotors so they experience less brake fade on continuous use. The MPP rotors are bigger (365mm) than the P3D+ stock rotors.They are also slotted, vented, and lighter. So they stay cooler thwarting brake fade even better than the P3D+ rotors.

But to put that stopping power to the ground, you'll need better tires comparable to the Michelin PS4 that come with the P3D+ or better. And lighter wheels will also help. Getting some light 19" (minimum diameter to clear MPP rotors) will actually be better than the heavy 20" that come with the P3D+.

Ok sounds like my kind of "good enough" mod. I usually wait to trash my stock brakes before upgrading them. My truck had known brake issues, the factory fix was slight thicker vented rotors but future years it was solved by them changing the wheels to 18's/19s instead of 17 and upgrading the calipers and rotors to a larger size. Rather than buy new wheels (I was fond of my 17" wheels with fat tires for floating over Sand), rotors and calipers, I upgraded the pads and switch to vented and slotted cryo treated rotors and never had another warping of my brake rotors. I was always jealous of the bigger brake kits though :p But well, I'm not planning on towing anything with my tesla.

I have not looked into changing brake fluid, I have done flushes in the past but I never feel like I get 100% of the old fluid out. Is there a special machine needed to switch to DOT4. Just curious, I'm not going to do that just yet.
 
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Can you take a picture of the clearance between the pad and rotor hat?

Not easily :) 2 front rotor pics

tires need rotating, if it stops raining for a day or 2 I'll takes pics then

rotor.jpeg
rotor2.jpeg
 
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I have not looked into changing brake fluid, I have done flushes in the past but I never feel like I get 100% of the old fluid out. Is there a special machine needed to switch to DOT4. Just curious, I'm not going to do that just yet.

No special machine. Just patience. I just did it and you suck out as much of the old stuff from the reservoir as possible with a turkey baster, then bleed bleed bleed. I bought a vacuum bleeder but I didnt like how it sucked air around the seals so I ended up having my son pop in the car and did it the old fashioned way. I used motul 600 which is much darker than stock so you can tell when you’ve gotten rid of the stock fluid