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My house has a 125A circuit, and I was able to fit in a full 50A circuit for a 14-50 outlet. It all depends on your particular setup, what your load calculation looks like, how much you currently have used, etc. Load calculation is the main thing.I am thinking about doing this, but curious what is the size of the main for others who have done it? My panel has a 125A and think that's probably too low to add another breaker
No, sheathed cable in conduit is not allowed.Can you run a sheathed cable through conduit? I thought wires in conduit had to be individual wires?
It is OK if done for protection - you can sleeve romex with conduit for physical protection where exposed to damage (unfinished garage walls, for instance). You have to leave the outer sheath on if the inner conductors are not marked with type info.No, sheathed cable in conduit is not allowed.
Can you run a sheathed cable through conduit? I thought wires in conduit had to be individual wires?
Hmm, perhaps I can get the code input of @eprosenx who's been reading NEC a lot. I was pretty sure it's forbidden to do the sheathed cable inside of conduit because you're double trapping the heat. If it's going to be trapped inside conduit with no air flow, I think that's why it needs the wires to be laid in there loose, instead of also having their heat trapped all next to each other inside the extra rubber sheath. There isn't cooling room if it's sheath + conduit.It is OK if done for protection - you can sleeve romex with conduit for physical protection where exposed to damage (unfinished garage walls, for instance). You have to leave the outer sheath on if the inner conductors are not marked with type info.
Romex often has THHN/THWN inside, but the insulation on the wire isn't labelled. If you remove the outer sheath, you loose the manufacturer's certification info.
Just to mention, it is almost certainly against local regs to have a non-licensed electrician install this without a permit. Not something people should emulate.
I am thinking about doing this, but curious what is the size of the main for others who have done it? My panel has a 125A and think that's probably too low to add another breaker
Yes, if you're working on your own home. But if someone is being paid to do the work on someone else's home, the person doing the work usually has to be licensed.Depends. Everywhere I've lived allows people to perform electrical work on their own home. Some places require a quick test. Some don't require anything. It's not complicated.
Yeah, but - Can Romex (NM-B) be run through conduit?Hmm, perhaps I can get the code input of @eprosenx who's been reading NEC a lot. I was pretty sure it's forbidden to do the sheathed cable inside of conduit because you're double trapping the heat. If it's going to be trapped inside conduit with no air flow, I think that's why it needs the wires to be laid in there loose, instead of also having their heat trapped all next to each other inside the extra rubber sheath. There isn't cooling room if it's sheath + conduit.
To be extra clear: it would be a code violation & safety hazard to put a 60A breaker on a 50A outlet.
Wait, seriously? I ask, because I'm not sure if my HPWC will be here in time and was thinking of having our electrician install a 15-50 outlet with a 60a breaker and sufficient wire gauge for 60a so I can later swap in an HPWC on the same wiring:
What NEMA plug/outlet wiring is closest to HPWC (for later upgrade?)
Is there not a good way to do this? I know it's SORT OF splitting hairs, but if I have the panel capacity, I'd really rather be able to charge the car at 48a vs 40a. I mean, nobody ever complained about having too much horsepower, right?
Cost me about $200 in Oklahoma and Arkansas to have a licensed electrician install the NEMA for me.
Materials included? Either way that's incredibly exceptional. That's what is would cost to install the face plate in most areas
Yes, for the most part. I supplied the Receptacles in both cases (they were pretty cheap at Home Depot) and the wire in Arkansas (again, pretty cheap, since it did not take much--the outlet was installed within just a few feet of the breaker box). I think the big difference in location, Arkansas and Oklahoma.
Hmm, perhaps I can get the code input of @eprosenx who's been reading NEC a lot. I was pretty sure it's forbidden to do the sheathed cable inside of conduit because you're double trapping the heat. If it's going to be trapped inside conduit with no air flow, I think that's why it needs the wires to be laid in there loose, instead of also having their heat trapped all next to each other inside the extra rubber sheath. There isn't cooling room if it's sheath + conduit.
Breakers are cheap. ~$10-$20. Just install the #6 wire with a 50A breaker for the 14-50 then swap the 50A for a 60A when you get the HPWC.
My house has a 125A circuit, and I was able to fit in a full 50A circuit for a 14-50 outlet. It all depends on your particular setup, what your load calculation looks like, how much you currently have used, etc. Load calculation is the main thing.
Breakers are cheap. ~$10-$20. Just install the #6 wire with a 50A breaker for the 14-50 then swap the 50A for a 60A when you get the HPWC.
Hmm, perhaps I can get the code input of @eprosenx who's been reading NEC a lot. I was pretty sure it's forbidden to do the sheathed cable inside of conduit because you're double trapping the heat. If it's going to be trapped inside conduit with no air flow, I think that's why it needs the wires to be laid in there loose, instead of also having their heat trapped all next to each other inside the extra rubber sheath. There isn't cooling room if it's sheath + conduit.
It is perfectly acceptable to run sheathed cable inside conduit. I don't know where the contrary notion came from, but boy is it pervasive.