Near annual replacement of 12V battery is typical according to Tesla Service Tech

[AudubonB]

Being someone who hates to think I can't change out a 12V battery, I've ripped out of our earlier non-D Model S (2013, #21451) all of the impeding panels other than the full-width, rear-most one through which protrude the wiper mechanisms.

This one appears also to be affixed in a male-female groove immediately below the windshield. That's something that doesn't make me happy.

Regardless, if I can remove the panel, I believe the battery will be fully exposed. Reading through 18 pages of this thread and skimming a few others, I've not found anyone who has extracted this, but I find that unlikely. Is there anywhere the procedure for extracting this panel?

 

[scottm]

I did see a video (in fast fwd motion) of a Tesla owner pulling off wiper blades and removing this panel, part of a12v replacement process (for early cars). I do recall a lot of "frantic looking motions" and lots of time spent in the video trying to pull the wipers.

Seems they're jammed onto their posts good... Which makes the case for maybe getting a special little puller tool that helps tug wipers off their posts - a generic tool from auto stores... don't know the applicability for Tesla wipers but maybe worth the $20 or whatever even if you use it once. Return to store if the need doesn't come up.

Cover the windshield with thick padded material in case you slip with a tool working in the area, don't whack the glass and crack it. Cracks also start really easily if you nick / chip the edge of the windshield or make impact of a hard tool on the part of the windshield that is glued to the metal frame..

So, ya, you can remove everything needed to get at the 12v.. Youtube search, or search around here on this forum, should turn it up. Haven't had to do the job yet, but.. will when it needs it.

 

[zwede]

Haven't replaced mine myself yet, but this video seems to cover it

 

[scottm]

ya, that video... thanks for finding it and posting it up in an appropriate thread!

 

[iwannam3]

That is insane to bury an item that needs more frequent replacement than any thing else on the vehicle including tires! I hope they come up with a better location and charging algorithm for the M3.

 

[scottm]

Newer model S than when the video was made have relocated 12v battery that is easier to access / change out.

 

[FlatSix911]

Here is the service manual guide Battery - Auxiliary - 12V (RWD) (Remove and Replace)
Battery - Auxiliary - 12V (RWD) (Remove and Replace)
FRT No: 17011002
Warning: If the 12V power supply is disconnected, do not attempt to open any doors with door glass in closed position. Failure to follow this instruction could result in door glass shatter.
Note: Before disconnecting the 12V power supply, ensure that the driver’s door window is fully open. Failure to follow this instruction could result in vehicle lockout.
Removal

1. Disconnect 12V power.
   • Rear wheel drive (RWD): Refer to procedure.
   • Dual Motor: Refer to procedure.
2. Remove the pollen filter rear housing:
   1. If equipped, release the 2 barrel clips that secure the HV harness to the bulkhead.
   2. Loosen the top right nut that secures the pollen filter rear housing to the bulkhead (torque 6 Nm).
      Note: It is not necessary to completely remove the nut; the tab on the housing is notched.
      
   3. Remove the remaining nuts (x3) that secure the pollen filter rear housing to the bulkhead (torque 6 Nm).
      Note: The 2 lower nuts secure the HVAC intake drain diverter.
      
3. Release the lugs (x4) that secure the battery fuse box cover. Remove the cover.
   
4. Remove the nut that secures the body harness connector to the battery fuse box (torque 6 Nm).
5. Remove the nut that secures the battery positive terminal to the fuse box (torque 12 Nm).
   
6. Remove the nut that secures the battery fuse box to the battery strap. Tie the battery fuse box aside (torque 6 Nm).
   
7. Remove the nuts (x2) that secure the battery strap (torque 3.5 Nm). Remove the strap.
   
8. Carefully lift the battery, turn it counter clockwise 90°, and remove it through the opening.
   
   Note: It can be difficult to remove C&D brand batteries because they do not have handles. It might be helpful to use duct tape in order to lift the battery high enough so that it can be supported from the bottom:
   1. Cut a piece of high-strength duct tape, approximately 18 in (45 cm) in length.
   2. Attach the ends of the duct tape to the long sides of the battery, leaving a large section of duct tape free above the battery. Twist this section of the duct tape back onto itself in order to form a handle.
   3. Using the handle, slowly lift the battery until it can be supported from the bottom.
      Warning: Do not use the handle to fully lift the battery out of the vehicle. Only lift the battery high enough so that it can be supported from the bottom.
      

Installation
Installation procedure is the reverse of removal, except for the following:

1. Ensure that the HVAC intake drain diverter is positioned properly when reinstalling the pollen filter front housing.
   Caution: Take care not to damage component(s).
2. If changing from an Exide to a C&D battery, update the vehicle's configuration with Toolbox.
   1. Connect a laptop with Toolbox to the vehicle.
   2. Select Views > Vehicle Configuration > Vehicle Configuration Update.
   3. In the "12V Battery Type" menu, select C&D.

 

[scottm]

great info! ..shame about the

not working from my browser

 

[AudubonB]

I got as far as pulling the ("battery" = passenger side) half of that final, windshield-adjacent panel away but, in that my wiper arm pullers are 3,400 miles away in Alaska, that's as far as I get. Those puppies are on there tight!, and I'm not going to pick up yet another duplicate tool.

So, in that the Model S is still under warranty and I still would need to go to a SvC to pick up a new battery...off to the SvC it goes.

 

[tga]

Those puppies are on there tight!, and I'm not going to pick up yet another duplicate tool.

I used to grumble about having duplicate tools at my two houses 150 miles apart. I think of they were 20x the distance, I'd have 2 of everything.

 

[AudubonB]

I agree....but I also am a hypocrite. As in "SvC will replace it under warranty".

 

[henderrj]

I'm looking I'm looking at a salvage title 85D. It has that lithium ion battery that replaces that lead acid 12-volt. Now I begin to see why!

 

[AudubonB]

You've been doing some very, very thorough looking if you've discovered that. Congratulations!

 

[Bridor]

Anyone in Southern California able to help me replace my 12 volt battery? Please???

Brent

 

[henderrj]

You've been doing some very, very thorough looking if you've discovered that. Congratulations!

LOL! Thank you, but no. He told me himself about it. A "Batmobile" battery. Strange name that I guess it works. He was certainly proud of it.

 

[ohmman]

I've had my S for about 3 years, my X for 10 months. I've never had to replace the 12V battery on either of them.

I apologize if it's been posted already, but I did read this interesting blog post a while ago which details the cycling of the battery. It looks as if it cooks the battery at times, and it certainly cycles much more often than it should. The DC-DC converter could be quite a bit smarter.

 

[Gizmotoy]

I've had my S for about 3 years, my X for 10 months. I've never had to replace the 12V battery on either of them.

I apologize if it's been posted already, but I did read this interesting blog post a while ago which details the cycling of the battery. It looks as if it cooks the battery at times, and it certainly cycles much more often than it should. The DC-DC converter could be quite a bit smarter.

It's kind of interesting how wide a disparity there is on these. My S is 3.5 years old, and I'm on my 3rd 12V. That's an ongoing, annual ~$400 expense.

 

[JRP3]

That's an ongoing, annual ~$400 expense.

You're still under warranty though, right? How much mileage?

 

[Gizmotoy]

You're still under warranty though, right? How much mileage?

You're right, I am. They've been covered by the warranty so far. Starting in November, it'll be on me.

It's a late 2013. 28k miles.

I'd probably have used that as an excuse to get the extended warranty, but it doesn't cover the 12V anymore.

 

[JRP3]

I'd definitely look into a lithium replacement at that point. Just make sure it has it's own voltage regulation because the spikes to 15.8V could be an issue if it's 4 cell LiFePO4 chemistry, which would be 3.95 volts per cell and that chemistry really shouldn't see more than 3.6V per cell.