smsprague
Member
The day before I made an appointment for my 50K service. Must be karma.
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The day before I made an appointment for my 50K service. Must be karma.
I've discussed my 12 V in previous posts. But to answer your question directly: Yes, I did replace mine when I received the warning. Got nearly 4 years from the original 12 V. But I was beginning to notice increasing vampire losses, and suspected these losses might be due to increased call for 12V charging..... although the Tesla Service Center folks pulled logs when I called them a few times (prior to getting the 12V warning message) and they stated there were no issues reflected in the logs .....
Cyclone
Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
dgpcolorado
high altitude member
My turn: got the "12V battery needs service" warning this morning. Just over two years since I bought the car with low miles (~6900) as CPO; May 2014 build and I've driven it about 38,600 miles since purchase. I'm guessing that it was the original battery, but no way to know.
The replacement will be done by a Ranger, since I am 300 miles from the service center.
I expect to be out of warranty by the end of this summer, so I'm glad it happened now.
The replacement will be done by a Ranger, since I am 300 miles from the service center.
I expect to be out of warranty by the end of this summer, so I'm glad it happened now.
Does anyone know if it is possible to replace a relay with a jumper somewhere on my facelift 2017 MS75D in order to keep the USB ports powered on constantly? I see on Page 9 of this form how to do it for pre-facelift but the fuse boxes are different in my car. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
dgpcolorado
high altitude member
A Ranger just replaced my 12V battery today and it appeared to be the original. So, 3 years 10 months for the 12V since the car was manufactured.
Impressive contribution of knowledge on this thread; great reading. I know this is a Model S forum but, as a Model 3 owner, I’m hopeful that your deep experiences might be helpful to me and my somewhat odd circumstance.
My car will soon be parked for 6 months in my summer home's unheated garage for the long winter. It’s a very long time of non-use and, while I understand that charging the traction battery to 50+% is advisable — which I will do — I am concerned about the best way to try preserving the 12v battery.
From reading this thread (and other sources), it seems that I’ve got several options. Is there a strong argument for one of these?
Option 1: charge the HV battery with my 60 amp HPWC. With no daily use, daily charge time will obviously be very brief.
Option 2: charge the HV battery with standard 120v household current via the mobile connector. Same effect as Option 1, except that the daily charging process will last considerably longer.
Option 3: trickle charge (or pulse charge) my 12v battery.
Any thoughts about which of these (or other) options would be appreciated.
My car will soon be parked for 6 months in my summer home's unheated garage for the long winter. It’s a very long time of non-use and, while I understand that charging the traction battery to 50+% is advisable — which I will do — I am concerned about the best way to try preserving the 12v battery.
From reading this thread (and other sources), it seems that I’ve got several options. Is there a strong argument for one of these?
Option 1: charge the HV battery with my 60 amp HPWC. With no daily use, daily charge time will obviously be very brief.
Option 2: charge the HV battery with standard 120v household current via the mobile connector. Same effect as Option 1, except that the daily charging process will last considerably longer.
Option 3: trickle charge (or pulse charge) my 12v battery.
Any thoughts about which of these (or other) options would be appreciated.
gavine
Petrol Head turned EV Enthusiast
Did you plan on remotely connecting to the car via the app? If not, there might be a way to shut the car down completely and then just hook the 12V battery to a trickle charger. Then again, if your garage gets extremely cold, you may want to keep the car plugged-in to the higher voltage charger so it can maintain the proper temperature. Keep in mind that a 120v outlet might not have enough power to warm the battery.
Uncle Paul
Well-Known Member
Can always hook up your 12v to a battery maintainer. That is what ICE owners have been doing for years when storing for long periods.
Option 1 - use the HPWC with the charge limit set to 50%. 120V doesn't give you enough to run the battery heater if it kicks in; your HPWC is more than plenty. Others will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the 3 and newer S/X have a small DC-DC converter inside the HV pack to provide standby 12V, minimizing cycling of the 12V
KArnold
Active Member
#1 and #3. If you only charge the HV battery without driving, the 12v will surely die somewhere along the way.
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
KArnold
Active Member
All I have is my own experience so it's anecdotal at best. My 6-month old MS is a daily driver but after 6 months I went out of country for 3 weeks. I did not do any online checks. It was plugged into a Nema 14-50 the entire time. The day I get back I get the "replace battery" message. That was 9 months ago.
Could have been a defective battery I suppose. But when I do that again I'll put a smart charge on it.
I have some experience with this. I use a CTEK battery maintainer on my 2013 Model S. I was preparing to do the same on my Model 3, only to discover when I tried to connect the maintainer to the 3, it kept ticking and wouldn't lock in. I suspected the voltage was too high on the car. Pulled out my voltmeter and measured 15.8 volts where I was trying to connect (on the 12v system, of course). Tried measuring the voltage a couple of other times, and it was always in that range. So I figured that they were using a different way on the 3 to keep the 12 volt system charged up...
If the car is never driven, the 12V is constantly cycling (this assumes no internal DC-DC converter to power the 12V subsystem while the car is off). While driven, the DC-DC converter is energized and powering the 12V subsystem, so the 12V battery is charged up and not cycled.
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