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Negative Camber in the Rear and Expensive Tires

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The adjustable links have been completed. They will come with the updated bushings already installed. The cost will be 800.00 plus a 200.00 core for your old links. I am attempting to attach a photo.

Depending on interest, BBC Speed And Machine will make whatever we need.
 

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Do note that the ones I did were 0.210" longer than the stock OEM parts. This was just about the limit of what I could do before I ran out of adjustment on the toe links. I did try some 0.250" longer parts but found I could not get toe in on one side of the car. We loosened the sub frame bushings and straightened the sub-frame with respect to the car which allowed me to get just a little tow in on both rear wheels but I found the car was not stable enough for my liking.

I think you will find that anything longer than the links from OpenEVSE may cause you a toe problem.
 
Do note that the ones I did were 0.210" longer than the stock OEM parts. This was just about the limit of what I could do before I ran out of adjustment on the toe links. I did try some 0.250" longer parts but found I could not get toe in on one side of the car. We loosened the sub frame bushings and straightened the sub-frame with respect to the car which allowed me to get just a little tow in on both rear wheels but I found the car was not stable enough for my liking.

I think you will find that anything longer than the links from OpenEVSE may cause you a toe problem.

My cars rear was off slightly from side to side. The ability to adjust for this was nice.I decided the extra couple of dollars was worth it. I like the idea of both sides being equal. Also I had the alignment mechanic get the most he could adjusting between toe and camber.
 
As near as I can tell, Tesla made the decision to have but one set of suspension geometry for MS to control the number of separate parts. When you lower a coil spring MS to air spring ride heights you get about one degree of camber gain. That extra degree makes for a bucket load more wear and sensitivity to toe variations. To be clear, this is pure speculation on my part and no one at Tesla has told me this.
 
Hey Champ, do you suppose that compliance or rubber bushing wear in the short integral-link below the toe-link at the leading edge of the rear suspension could cause the extreme inner shoulder wear that some have seen--what are your thoughts on that and the path for carrying thrust loads? Thanks, kenny

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do you suppose that compliance or rubber bushing wear in the short integral-link below the toe-link at the leading edge of the rear suspension could cause the extreme inner shoulder wear that some have seen

I don't think so for two reasons:

1) inside shoulder wear occurs in new cars where wear on said bushing has not yet occurred
2) compliance is always present, however, pre-mature inside tire wear is significantly, if almost completely eliminated when proper* alignment is achieved (as in my case, currently @38K with a projected 45-50K life expectancy on 21's with 2.5 tire rotations)

*subject to differing opinions/strategies depending on driving skill, driving style, road conditions, road surfaces, temperatures, anti-sway bar diameters, bushing(s) durometer, tires, tire pressure, front/rear toe and camber settings, spring rates, dampening characteristics, wheels, loads, ride-height, etc...., and the use of non-approved suspension componentry
 
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I have a 60 and don't do much crazy accelerating, but I'm facing complete replacement of the initial 19" Goodyears with fewer than 15,000 miles, due to the same inside treadwear problem documented on this thread. I haven't seen any discussion on this thread about the other cause of excessive rear tire wear in normally driven Teslas: regenerative braking. I'm diligent about letting regen handle almost all of my needed deceleration, because it saves electricity and has allowed me to keep lifetime average efficiency below 290 Wh/mile. But, unfortunately, that puts all of those forces on the rear tires alone. Wouldn't one of the biggest advantages of the dual motor configuration be that it more evenly distributes regenerative braking forces across all four tires?
 
I have a 60 and don't do much crazy accelerating, but I'm facing complete replacement of the initial 19" Goodyears with fewer than 15,000 miles, due to the same inside treadwear problem documented on this thread. I haven't seen any discussion on this thread about the other cause of excessive rear tire wear in normally driven Teslas: regenerative braking. I'm diligent about letting regen handle almost all of my needed deceleration, because it saves electricity and has allowed me to keep lifetime average efficiency below 290 Wh/mile. But, unfortunately, that puts all of those forces on the rear tires alone. Wouldn't one of the biggest advantages of the dual motor configuration be that it more evenly distributes regenerative braking forces across all four tires?

Most likely, the bias will be:
Acceleration: rear
Regen: front
High speed cruising: front

And yeah, you would expect more even wear because of this.
 
I have a 60 and don't do much crazy accelerating, but I'm facing complete replacement of the initial 19" Goodyears with fewer than 15,000 miles, due to the same inside treadwear problem documented on this thread. I haven't seen any discussion on this thread about the other cause of excessive rear tire wear in normally driven Teslas: regenerative braking.

Given that if you brake at Xg, there will be Y amount of wear on the tires. The only thing that regen will do is reduce the braking wear on the front tires and add it to the rear. The sum of all four tires' tread depths should be the same.

For the rear, toe is the big culprit. Camber just accelerates whatever problems there were in the first place. Kind of like speed by itself isn't harmful, but in an accident higher speed results in more damage. Reducing the negative camber makes the car more tolerant of toe. Unfortunately, many cars (of all makes) have their alignment messed up during transport, and it took Tesla a long time to get their alignment skills up to speed in the Service Centres.
 
On Thursday am I'm having SUPRKAR's adjustable camber link installed on my car along with the 20" wheels shown on this Ferrari fitted. Following Lolachampcar's advice rear camber will be set to -1.0. I'll report on the handling effects once I drive on those settings. SUPRKAR has told me the difference is not that noticeable and I greatly trust his judgment.

The wheels will be fitted with Bridgestone 245/40R-20 Potenza RE970AS Pole Position all-season performance tires. My 21's, after being re-powdercoated (too much road rash) will go back on the car in April when the weather gets better.

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I'm giving up my 19" Rial Lugano's after having them re-powdercoated (in my experience the finish on these wheels is not very durable). Perhaps I'll keep them in reserve or sell them.
 
Hey Rick, I ran the Bridgestone Pole Potenza RE970AS all season tires on my stock 19" wheels for two winters. After 10000 miles they won't pass inspection. I run the Conti Extreme summers in my 21" wheels and after 10000 miles of summer driving still have about half tread left. Also, I experienced about 20% mileage loss from the Bridgestones compared to others on the same long drive, same speed and conditions (convoy). Tesla engineers said they tested these Bridgestones among all others they considered and found that they had the worst rolling resistance of all they tested. They said a 20% mileage loss should be normal with these tires. I'm now running Michelin MXM4 Primacy all seasons in my new TST Sportline dark grey turbine 19" wheels and love them so far.
 
Hey Rick, I ran the Bridgestone Pole Potenza RE970AS all season tires on my stock 19" wheels for two winters. After 10000 miles they won't pass inspection. I run the Conti Extreme summers in my 21" wheels and after 10000 miles of summer driving still have about half tread left. Also, I experienced about 20% mileage loss from the Bridgestones compared to others on the same long drive, same speed and conditions (convoy). Tesla engineers said they tested these Bridgestones among all others they considered and found that they had the worst rolling resistance of all they tested. They said a 20% mileage loss should be normal with these tires. I'm now running Michelin MXM4 Primacy all seasons in my new TST Sportline dark grey turbine 19" wheels and love them so far.

Thanks to your post I arranged for TireRack to pick up the Bridgestones in exchange for 245/40R-20 Pirelli Cinturato P7 All Season Plus XL.

After your post I did a lot of research and concluded that these Pirelli tires were the best all around choice. They're highly rated for handling in the dry, wet, and light snow. And they're also tops in quiet and rolling resistance. It's really a touring not high performance tire, but perfect for the winter months.

Regrettably, delivery of the 20" Avantgarde M580 wheels was delayed until December so for I want be able to make any judgments about the Pirelli's until then. In the meantime I'm running my 19" Rials.