I don't have any experience in a BEV let alone a Tesla. I've had a Prius and a Prius plug-in. But not apples to apples. Anyway, what are the common issues on the MYLR? I heard front suspension ball joint fails quite frequently? anymore I should look out for? Any preventive measures I can do on a regular basis? Thanks for your insight!
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new to Tesla and have a MYLR on order, what are the common issues and preventive measures for the MYLR?
- Thread starter E46M3
- Start date
SkyDog
Member
Don't charge the battery to 100% unless you really need it for a long trip. Letting the car sit at 100% charge is not good for battery health.
whisperingshad
Active Member
27,500 miles on my Y. 18 months old. I haven't even rotated the tires - wear is excellent. I wash the car weekly (the lack of brake dust is awesome). I've had zero need for service of any type. Won't go back to internal combustion.
bluenycom
Member
The only "difficult" maintenance I have done was the cabin filter replacement. Why don't engineers ever design an easy pop out/pop in without tools or contortion yourself so you can see what you're doing. I rotates my tires every 10K miles and replaced wipers blades after 30K miles. That's it unless you count refilling windshield wiper fluid.
whisperingshad
Active Member
Figure out your charging scheme early and get it installed, if possible. Or at least order parts.
The simplest thing to do is to hook the car up to a 120 VAC outlet somewhere using the included Mobile Connector. However, the best these things do with 120 VAC and 12A (on a 15A circuit) is about 5 miles of charge per hour. And, if it's cold, like below freezing, this might get reduced to one or two miles of charge per hour, since the car tries to get the battery up to temperature, and the 1.4 kW or so from the 120 VAC circuit may not be able to cut it, especially if the car's outside or in a cold garage.
A better bet is to hook the car up to 240 VAC. The Mobile Connector can connect to any number of 240V socket types, the NEMA14-50 being vaguely preferred. You'll need to check with your delivery specialist as to what adapters for what sockets come with the Mobile Connector that comes with the car, then order the appropriate 240 VAC adapter.
There's been quite a bit of commentary around the forums here that, if you've got typical electrical building codes, you'll need (a) a 240 VAC circuit, (b) some kind of GFI safety feature on the socket, and (c) a high-quality 240 VAC socket, since the cheap ones found in Home Depot are known not to last. After one has paid for all this, it turns out to be slightly less expensive or a wash to actually buy a Tesla Wall Connector. Buying one of those, with the right breaker size and wire for 60A, will get you the maximum charge rate for the car, around 45 miles of charge per hour, and zero issues regarding charging in cold weather. Although that last would also be true for any 240 VAC circuit, Mobile or Wall Connector.
Thing is, though, that you'd like to have 240 VAC. Now, my place, it's relatively new construction, and it came with 200A service. Adding a 60A 240 VAC breaker to the collection was Not A Problem. But I've personally seen much older homes with, what, 75A service and no or single additional breaker spots in the breaker panel. What this means: You'll probably want to hire an electrician to put in the 240 VAC circuit. The cost in labor and materials can vary quite a bit. In my case, the breaker box happened to be in the garage, making things dead easy. Other people have the breaker box in the basement on the far side of the house from the garage or, worse, the car's parked in a shed with either no service or very little.
All of which means: Line up your electrical contractor sooner than later and Get Estimates. Tesla at one time kept a list of contractors who were more-or-less Tesla Certified; don't know if they still do, or if they do where you are. It's not a biggie if you use a non-Tesla guy or gal, but make durn sure whoever you get is state-licensed, and not some gonzo who takes shortcuts.
The simplest thing to do is to hook the car up to a 120 VAC outlet somewhere using the included Mobile Connector. However, the best these things do with 120 VAC and 12A (on a 15A circuit) is about 5 miles of charge per hour. And, if it's cold, like below freezing, this might get reduced to one or two miles of charge per hour, since the car tries to get the battery up to temperature, and the 1.4 kW or so from the 120 VAC circuit may not be able to cut it, especially if the car's outside or in a cold garage.
A better bet is to hook the car up to 240 VAC. The Mobile Connector can connect to any number of 240V socket types, the NEMA14-50 being vaguely preferred. You'll need to check with your delivery specialist as to what adapters for what sockets come with the Mobile Connector that comes with the car, then order the appropriate 240 VAC adapter.
There's been quite a bit of commentary around the forums here that, if you've got typical electrical building codes, you'll need (a) a 240 VAC circuit, (b) some kind of GFI safety feature on the socket, and (c) a high-quality 240 VAC socket, since the cheap ones found in Home Depot are known not to last. After one has paid for all this, it turns out to be slightly less expensive or a wash to actually buy a Tesla Wall Connector. Buying one of those, with the right breaker size and wire for 60A, will get you the maximum charge rate for the car, around 45 miles of charge per hour, and zero issues regarding charging in cold weather. Although that last would also be true for any 240 VAC circuit, Mobile or Wall Connector.
Thing is, though, that you'd like to have 240 VAC. Now, my place, it's relatively new construction, and it came with 200A service. Adding a 60A 240 VAC breaker to the collection was Not A Problem. But I've personally seen much older homes with, what, 75A service and no or single additional breaker spots in the breaker panel. What this means: You'll probably want to hire an electrician to put in the 240 VAC circuit. The cost in labor and materials can vary quite a bit. In my case, the breaker box happened to be in the garage, making things dead easy. Other people have the breaker box in the basement on the far side of the house from the garage or, worse, the car's parked in a shed with either no service or very little.
All of which means: Line up your electrical contractor sooner than later and Get Estimates. Tesla at one time kept a list of contractors who were more-or-less Tesla Certified; don't know if they still do, or if they do where you are. It's not a biggie if you use a non-Tesla guy or gal, but make durn sure whoever you get is state-licensed, and not some gonzo who takes shortcuts.
No spare and no run flats so carry a compressor, plug it, needle-nose pliers and a pair of coveralls. If you're not familiar with the process watch a YouTube video so you're ready just in case. Over 28K on mine without a flat but YMMV of course.
TacoSteve
Closed
-Get an alignment done right after delivery, most of the cars that we've seen right out of the factory have had pretty terrible wheel alignments. You'll save on tires if you make sure to keep up with alignments and tire rotations
-Premature Suspension Bushing failure. Start checking them around 20k miles. Here's a video on it:
-Stock suspension is terrible. Might want to look into aftermarket options if you are sensitive to the ride quality. This channel has a few video's on different options: https://www.youtube.com/@zevcentric/videos
That's all I can think of off the top of my head.
-Premature Suspension Bushing failure. Start checking them around 20k miles. Here's a video on it:
-Stock suspension is terrible. Might want to look into aftermarket options if you are sensitive to the ride quality. This channel has a few video's on different options: https://www.youtube.com/@zevcentric/videos
That's all I can think of off the top of my head.
ZenRockGarden
Active Member
Severe curb rash on the stock wheels is probably your biggest risk - for efficiency they have basically zero tire protecting the rim.
Other than that - set the "battery remaining" display to percentage, plug it in when it gets low and treat it like a big wheeled iPhone.
Other than that - set the "battery remaining" display to percentage, plug it in when it gets low and treat it like a big wheeled iPhone.
Wouldn't you notice uneven tire wear if the alignment is out? Where do you get an alignment done - can any alignment shop do it? I have a 2021 MY and only got 19,000 miles on my first set of tires and I'm a gentle driver. I rotated every 6,000 miles.
I broke down and rotated the tires at 18,000. Nearing 33,000 now and probably won't again.
You mentioned the lack of brake dust. Whoa ... the car has brakes?
Previous car was a Prius. It, too, had regen brakes, but in a way it's a lot less obvious: Hard braking and slowing down when below 10 mph or so. Or if the car feels a skid coming on and wants 4-wheel ABS or something.
I used to hang out on a Prius forum. There were quite a few punters who were into using clay on the car's finish to do some kind of deep cleaning; these types would complain incessantly about the brake dust on the finish. Something about how abrasive it was.
Tesla's have regular brakes, but I get the impression that, what with one-pedal driving and very aggressive regen braking, I'd say that brake dust isn't a major contributor to Tesla grime.
Yes, you would, eventually. I'm at 33,000 miles on the original OEM tires and mine show no sign of misalignment. My tread wear is fairly even.
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