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No offense, the current card/phone setup is utter *sugar*

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I've had zero problems with iPhoneX - it has worked flawlessly. Sometimes i wonder if it even locks the car or not, as the car is always unlocked when i approach it.

you can't say "it has worked flawlessly" and the in the next sentence say "sometimes i wonder if it even locks the car." that's part of this.

if the car is never locked to begin with, then sure it'll seem like the phone key is working spendidly...
 
I took delivery of my Model 3 today and, now that I’m a total expert after having owned it for half a day, i can unequivocally state that the current locking unlocking methods are complete crap.

Locking and unlocking are not supposed to be beta things and one is not supposed to be content with these methods working “most of the time”. I have read all kinds of opinions here on this subject and I cant believe the apologists. Guys, face it, it’s crap.

After one solid afternoon of ownership I can say my phone can open the car with below 50% reliability (new Apple XS) while working perfectly with all my other bluetooth devices.

I was showing the car to some friends and the damn thing locked me out with the key card inside. I then tried to unlock using the app, but the car had disappeared from the app, leaving the app useless. Luckily I had previously lowered a window and i could reach inside and hit the unlock button. At this point, the car had not recognized any unlocking device and I had opened it by reaching in from outside, yet the alarm was not triggered. Does it even have an alarm?

Over the last hour or so I’ve been walking in and out of the garage to check on the charging (first charge, making sure the wiring is good and no wires are overheating). The car locks itself and then unlocks when i grab the door handle. I have no card or phone on me, nor is the phone close by. It just unlocks. That’s plain stupid, it shouldn’t let me open the door.

That Model 3 fob can’t come soon enough.
Really? My car locks EVERY time. I've only had it not unlock a few times. I just tried it again and it opened. No FOB for me.
 
it's still happening. it has happened to me more than once in the past week or so.

Ugh, I am very sad to hear that. I'd rather have a hundred failed unlocks than one failure to lock.

This should be a relatively easy fix, too. The BLE ranging code should see the device drop off, and even if it doesn't, it should be conducting periodic verifications of lock state vs authorized key devices detected.
 
Or be smart and get battery enabled locks on front and back doors in case of power outage.

<— no more keys needed. If phone battery dies I can still walk up to door and use battery powered deadbolt touch pads
Sure. Can also do the low-tech solution of just hiding a spare key somewhere outside the house, too. Or even just keeping a spare house key in the car. It was just tongue-in-cheek.
 
Ugh, I am very sad to hear that. I'd rather have a hundred failed unlocks than one failure to lock.

This should be a relatively easy fix, too. The BLE ranging code should see the device drop off, and even if it doesn't, it should be conducting periodic verifications of lock state vs authorized key devices detected.

it literally just happened to me just now when I went into the grocery store...so add another.
 
@crackers8199 now that I think about it, I just remembered that I did also take some other actions around the time the problem went away. I can't remember exact details but I had a suspicion that my iPad, which I set up as a key at once point to test, was POTENTIALLY causing some sort of issue even though it'd been removed. I think that I re-added it and then removed it as a key in some other way.

Might not apply, but if you have ever set up another device as a key even if it's not currently set up, I'm mentioning it just in case.
 
how could he have been advocating for a mechanical key? there's no lock...

I never meant anything about a mechanical key. But my 2011 Challenger R/T's key fob DID have a mechanical key integrated into it. If it was needed due to a low fob battery, just slide the spring loaded lock to the side and pull out a mechanical key and use it in the door lock. Tried it a couple times but never really needed to use it.

Another bad thing about the key card is when we hold the card up to the B pillar, people around us in the parking lot can see where we are holding it on the car, thereby taking away some of the mystique of having the Tesla.
 
@crackers8199 now that I think about it, I just remembered that I did also take some other actions around the time the problem went away. I can't remember exact details but I had a suspicion that my iPad, which I set up as a key at once point to test, was POTENTIALLY causing some sort of issue even though it'd been removed. I think that I re-added it and then removed it as a key in some other way.

Might not apply, but if you have ever set up another device as a key even if it's not currently set up, I'm mentioning it just in case.

the only thing i've noticed is that this seems to happen more often after a software update (which i did just get last night)...but it's not constant nor is it consistent. i keep saying i'm going to ditch the phone altogether and just go with the card, but having to get the card out and tap it every time is so annoying that i haven't done it yet. i'm also used to complete hands free because my chevy volt, which is 5 years older and cost $30k less than my model 3 somehow has a better entry/drive away system in place. that's really, really sad.
 
the only thing i've noticed is that this seems to happen more often after a software update (which i did just get last night)...but it's not constant nor is it consistent. i keep saying i'm going to ditch the phone altogether and just go with the card, but having to get the card out and tap it every time is so annoying that i haven't done it yet. i'm also used to complete hands free because my chevy volt, which is 5 years older and cost $30k less than my model 3 somehow has a better entry/drive away system in place. that's really, really sad.
You haven’t left the volt on and walked away yet? I have done that a couple times. Not a fan of push to start button anymore. Lol.
 
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You haven’t left the volt on and walked away yet? I have done that a couple times. Not a fan of push to start button anymore. Lol.

once, in five years. i came home one night sick and tired and just wanted to go to bed, and left it turned on in the garage. even plugged it in lol...either way though, the problem with that isn't the push button start - it's that the car is silent when running on battery. there's no way to know it's running unless you look at the interior staying on...

the triple beep if you get out and shut the door with the car still running has fixed that now.
 
once, in five years. i came home one night sick and tired and just wanted to go to bed, and left it turned on in the garage. even plugged it in lol...either way though, the problem with that isn't the push button start - it's that the car is silent when running on battery. there's no way to know it's running unless you look at the interior staying on...

the triple beep if you get out and shut the door with the car still running has fixed that now.
Yeah the beep helps. Then I have to sit back down because it didn’t detect the fob in my pocket when I reach across the dash to press the power button. Serious first world problems.

My wife just told me a story about how the Volt made her mad due to the doors randomly not unlocking. My talking about this post to her made her remember it. I am sure our children yelling didn’t help her any. Lol.
 
Just a followup to my previous message, I upgraded to the iPhone Xs and after logging into the tesla app and paring the new phone everything works as expected. Locks and Unlocks hasn't skipped a beat.

Yeah, the original hunch discussed here is correct. On iOS, it does indeed do background location tracking/validation. I did a bit more testing and it's bloody obvious from how it works or does not work when location access is set to "When Using". With this setting, it always works if you just open the app and otherwise it just happens to work at times, depending on how long ago and where the app was used (such that it would have had the chance to record the phone's location). The posts above explaining how/why it works like this under iOS are spot-on, i.m.o.

I also installed the app on another phone and noticed the message asking for location access. They say that setting the permission to "Always" is to optimize the key functionality, which is not accurate. It's not optimizing it, it's actually a requirement to make it work more than just sporadically.

So yes, it can work most of the time when the cellular network and GPS are accessible, that is if you're OK with Tesla tracking your every move and if you're OK with the car failing to lock or unlock when you have spotty coverage or you're in a parking structure that blocks either the GPS or the cellular signal.

I'm going with a fob, as soon as they become available. The phone will be a great back-up if I ever leave the fob behind, but it's indeed *sugar* on its own.



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Yeah, the original hunch discussed here is correct. On iOS, it does indeed do background location tracking/validation. I did a bit more testing and it's bloody obvious from how it works or does not work when location access is set to "When Using". With this setting, it always works if you just open the app and otherwise it just happens to work at times, depending on how long ago and where the app was used (such that it would have had the chance to record the phone's location). The posts above explaining how/why it works like this under iOS are spot-on, i.m.o.
[...]
So yes, it can work most of the time when the cellular network and GPS are accessible, that is if you're OK with Tesla tracking your every move and if you're OK with the car failing to lock or unlock when you have spotty coverage or you're in a parking structure that blocks either the GPS or the cellular signal.

Couple of FWIW, per the earlier discussion:
- Yes, you're theoretically giving Tesla permission to track your every move. You can see, however, in Location Services setup (hollow chevron vs solid chevron) that the app is using geofencing, not continuous location inspection. Certainly geofencing can functionally be used to capture near-continuous, but it's at least superficially only activating when you move.
- Location Services isn't wholly GPS and cellular dependent; it clearly also uses wifi sniffing and fixed-location-Bluetooth (e.g. beacons) and it may also use inertial movement inference.

(Also I'd be surprised if the location services wakeup was necessary for walk-away lock. Unlock, sure.)