Cyclone
Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
Ahhh. Aka, more aggressive driving than I would ever do, even with the "still works when hot" benefit of ceramic. Thanks! My S85 will be fine
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out of warranty, brakes need replaced
- Thread starter demundus
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- Driving Dynamics Model S
Ahhh. Aka, more aggressive driving than I would ever do, even with the "still works when hot" benefit of ceramic. Thanks! My S85 will be fine
dabbler
Member
Gizmotoy
Active Member
The design of the calipers should be instantly recognizable to anyone who's had Brembo brakes in the past. Tesla just used Brembo as their brake supplier. The pads are Brembos as well, right down to the slow initial bite when wet. There are likely dozens of cars with the same pads.
Here's some detailed pics from artsci (notice the Brembo logo on the back): A detailed and revealing photo tour of Tesla's Brembo brake calipers
No one has brought up where the brake fluid reservoir is?
You need to pop the cap to make it easier to spread the pistons in order to get the new pads in.
You may want to invest in a caliper spreader. Looking at the calipers, it has a bridge, so it should be pretty easy to change out the pads if you can get the pistons to retract.
Nope, that's a typical MSRP for Brembo front and rear big brake kits.
You can usually get them for around $6,000.
Ceramic kits would be more like $8,000 per axle.
You need to pop the cap to make it easier to spread the pistons in order to get the new pads in.
You may want to invest in a caliper spreader. Looking at the calipers, it has a bridge, so it should be pretty easy to change out the pads if you can get the pistons to retract.
Nope, that's a typical MSRP for Brembo front and rear big brake kits.
You can usually get them for around $6,000.
Ceramic kits would be more like $8,000 per axle.
Brake fluid resivor is on the drivers side right underneath the plastic cover at the base of the windshield.
See pic here: http://insideevs.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Want-to-know-what-it-really-looks-like-under-the-hood-Imgur.jpg
Gizmotoy
Active Member
Could be. I was once tracking an Acura TSX I didn't own when a pebble got lodged in a pad. The sound was toe-curling, but I'm told the view was spectacular as sparks shot out 5' or so from my front wheel as I slammed the brakes coming off a straightaway. Track officials poked it with a stick and got it out after I limped to the pits. That rotor was probably toast. I'm glad it wasn't mine.
As others have said, this sounds like a pebble or perhaps anti-rattle clip. Regardless, just check out RockAuto - they show any number of brands for the Tesla with prices ranging for anywhere from $12 to $50 set (front or rear). You could also call Tesla to ask them what a set costs (if you can even get a set from them - the great "parts mystery" with Tesla). Doesn't look to be anything particularly special about Tesla's brake setup.
freeewilly
Member
Tesla OEM brake pads make so much brake dust, you should take the opportunely to look for low dust brake pads.
Vince Cobelo
Member
Just remember when you put it all back together use the proper torque for everything from the bolts that hold the calipers in place to the lug nuts. Not sure where you can get all of that information but it's gotta be out there somewhere.
chriSharek
Member
I'm surprised at this too - that the brakes need to be replaced. I just put new tires on my Volt with 85k miles and they said there was 76% of the pads remaining! The regen should reduce the wear on the brakes significantly.
If you have never done brakes before I would suggest getting your normal mechanic to do it if you have one. While brakes are not that hard if you know what you are doing trying to them not having tools jacks, jack stands, and general knowledge of a braking system sounds like a terrible idea. The brake replacement at a normal shop will not be that expensive. Attempting your first brake job on a 100k car just sounds like a recipe for disaster lol.
How many miles do you people who need to change pads have on their cars? I thought the goal is to try NOT using your brakes?
I have essentially no dust on my wheels when we wash the car because we barely use the brakes.
As for pads, consider Stoptech Performance pad, but it does need proper bedding in to work really well. The Stoptech PosiQuiet don't bite as hard but work ok.
They're WAY cheaper that the EBC above and are available in many Brembo sizes.
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I have essentially no dust on my wheels when we wash the car because we barely use the brakes.
As for pads, consider Stoptech Performance pad, but it does need proper bedding in to work really well. The Stoptech PosiQuiet don't bite as hard but work ok.
They're WAY cheaper that the EBC above and are available in many Brembo sizes.
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Alysashley79
Active Member
I have 76k on my odo and on my third set of pads (counting the set that came with the car) even had to have the e brake pads replaced at around 60k. I'm not heavy footed on the brakes either I have a Prius with about the same amount of miles and still have 80% of the pads left. Who knows.
TaoJones
Beyond Driven
Pads are fine at 38,000 miles (1mm wear iirc from the annual service a couple of months ago), and tire wear is great (still a fair bit left) but I'm on my 5th set of rotors.
One differentiator seems to be whether one has an AP car or not.
That said, I tend to have a surprising amount of brake dust on the right front rim and not much elsewhere. I use TACC often. Probably 75% of miles driven are highway miles. I attribute at least one set of rotors being replaced due specifically to TACC updates early on that noticeably changed the level of aggressiveness related thereto. But 4 replacement sets in a year? I've never shredded rotors in any car, new or old, driven aggressively or not, at that rate. Not even close. And if I drove poorly, which I don't, one would think it would show up in tire wear. But I might get all 45,000 miles out of the OEM set, so it's presumably not that. Hard to blame the car, but if it's not TACC, then what is the cause?
I had thought initially that something might be misaligned. SvC says no, and has said they replace a lot of rotors. Go figure. So... there ya go. Fortunately for the next owner, rotors have a 1 year parts and labor warranty. So no worries there, as I haven't had a set last past 3 months yet.
But the pads? Holding up great, yeah.
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One more thing - forgot to note another theory put forth at the last SvC visit: There were a lot of road trips last year - easily 2/3 of the mileage. Charged to an average of 90% during at least half of that time. Anything over 80%, and SvC said there's less/no regen. Aha! This, they said, puts the load upon the other set of calipers. Seems plausible. To test this theory during the "off season" (no multi-day trips scheduled Jan - Mar), I've tried to keep the average between 70%-80%. Will find out next month how the rotors are doing. Other owners have said they do this normally (they don't do many road trips), and are still going through rotors, so who knows. Another constant is that most of the non-AP owners with whom I've spoken are still using their original rotors and they're holding up just fine. Brake pads, too.
One differentiator seems to be whether one has an AP car or not.
That said, I tend to have a surprising amount of brake dust on the right front rim and not much elsewhere. I use TACC often. Probably 75% of miles driven are highway miles. I attribute at least one set of rotors being replaced due specifically to TACC updates early on that noticeably changed the level of aggressiveness related thereto. But 4 replacement sets in a year? I've never shredded rotors in any car, new or old, driven aggressively or not, at that rate. Not even close. And if I drove poorly, which I don't, one would think it would show up in tire wear. But I might get all 45,000 miles out of the OEM set, so it's presumably not that. Hard to blame the car, but if it's not TACC, then what is the cause?
I had thought initially that something might be misaligned. SvC says no, and has said they replace a lot of rotors. Go figure. So... there ya go. Fortunately for the next owner, rotors have a 1 year parts and labor warranty. So no worries there, as I haven't had a set last past 3 months yet.
But the pads? Holding up great, yeah.
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One more thing - forgot to note another theory put forth at the last SvC visit: There were a lot of road trips last year - easily 2/3 of the mileage. Charged to an average of 90% during at least half of that time. Anything over 80%, and SvC said there's less/no regen. Aha! This, they said, puts the load upon the other set of calipers. Seems plausible. To test this theory during the "off season" (no multi-day trips scheduled Jan - Mar), I've tried to keep the average between 70%-80%. Will find out next month how the rotors are doing. Other owners have said they do this normally (they don't do many road trips), and are still going through rotors, so who knows. Another constant is that most of the non-AP owners with whom I've spoken are still using their original rotors and they're holding up just fine. Brake pads, too.
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Cyclone
Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
That's complete BS (by the SvC, not you). You are not regen limited at "anything over 80%". Now, maybe at the same time it was so cold that your battery, even when charged above 80%, is too cold to let you have full regen, but even then, its the temp and not really anything to do with SOC (state of charge). Even then though, I doubt that is the case and you would have noticed the limited regen on your energy panel.
Something is really wrong, and I'm not sure it's with he rotors. Do you have traction control turned off? Frequent rotor changing is not a problem with the Model S. Pictures of the supposedly bad rotors would help.
The right front with a lot of brake dust sounds as if one of the calipers are sticking. I have over 65K miles and the brakes are like new.
An AP car shouldn't matter.
And Cyclone is correct. What you were told was complete nonsense. You won't see any regen limits and 80 or 90%. At 100% yes, but even then you'll get regen after a very few miles (like ten) of driving. You can also get regen limiting if the battery is cold--and that has nothing to do with the SOC--the limiting doesn't last very long either because there is a heater to warm them up (or you can set the timer so that the charge cycle ends at about the time you start to drive, and you can also preheat using the App).
No they are not. They don't include anything in annual service anymore. Just visual inspection and fluids changing. And a key fob battery and wiper blades. Not brake pads though.
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