Ah, so the car had 265s....that wasn't mentioned in the initial post ;-). I need to get somewhere so I can get experience with track mode. I was too chicken to try it on a spirited drive on Ortega Highway.
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Performance Model 3 slower than AWD? Autocross results!
- Thread starter Daniel in SD
- Start date
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Definitely save Track Mode for "closed courses." For all of us!
My biggest disappointment of the day was that even after that full charge in the morning, I noted that: Performance not getting 310 miles promised
My biggest disappointment of the day was that even after that full charge in the morning, I noted that: Performance not getting 310 miles promised
I wish I had left more time to hit a supercharger on my way it. I had a long drive, and though I drafted as much as possible on my way in, I was still below 70% SoC by the time I arrived and around 55% for the timed laps
Are the 3 brakes just like the newer electronic S brakes?
where it is pretty much not possible to left foot brake like you can on an old S?
where it is pretty much not possible to left foot brake like you can on an old S?
SammichLover
Banned
For Track Mode especially, since it is going to want to run the A/C flat out, that'll also eat at the battery. So far I've only run at a location about 30 miles from home, which is near perfect. Take it to 100% overnight and by the time I'm on location and the day goes by before getting to run I'm mid-80s, in the sweet spot of having full regen potential while still near full acceleration potential and can finish the day without reaching that power drop-off that is supposed to happen somewhere below 75% SOC.
Later this month I'm going to try road trip a good distance to an event. I want to find an adaptor to bridge my rear, side seatbelts together. It's kinda a pain getting in to clip the tires in, two aside, like they were a person. I want to be able to weave them together to clip all four in faster. They weight less than 200lb total for the four, so I think it should be good for restraining them in the event of an unplanned stop.
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but does it cut power instantly like it does on a P85D or can you actually use it like a RWD w/o TC on. I get the beeping all the time during autocross in my car but it does not stop rotation or power like it does on a D (brake pedal placement also kind of sucks when they moved it up higher after the early complaints about hitting both at the same time accidentally
)Is there a reason for having sooo many cones out there? Is it because the cones are so small or is that standard in other autocrosses? We usually use pointers and gates but not a fully bordered course. Maybe a perimeter or a channel in some areas if it is needed or part of a feature
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My guess is that it cuts power when you hit the brakes. What would be the advantage of left foot braking?but does it cut power instantly like it does on a P85D or can you actually use it like a RWD w/o TC on. I get the beeping all the time during autocross in my car but it does not stop rotation or power like it does on a D (brake pedal placement also kind of sucks when they moved it up higher after the early complaints about hitting both at the same time accidentally
Is there a reason for having sooo many cones out there? Is it because the cones are so small or is that standard in other autocrosses? We usually use pointers and gates but not a fully bordered course. Maybe a perimeter or a channel in some areas if it is needed or part of a feature
That's just the way the local BMW club does it. It is a lot of work to place them and take them down! The SCCA club uses fewer cones.
How about seat belt extenders? I was just trying to imagine how I'm going to get the wheels in the car, secure them, and save room for other items. Then I read your post, and it prompted me to consider seatbelt extenders so I could secure them, and not go through the grief of reaching down to buckle them (which are a PITA).
With LF braking you can approach a corner, use the brakes hard to slow before starting to turn, let off and as you shift weight back, hold the throttle at 0 and coast through the mid corner...at some point on one turn I am almost always on both at the same time just a bit and on occasion I have too much speed, while holding throttle at 0 I can either do a brake tap or let off and get a tiny bit of rear end regen pull. Also able to hold traction on the front a bit with brakes while getting the rear end out a couple of degrees in super tight situations. Probably not necessarily the fastest technique to use but I am usually trying to push my car hard and have fun. & with our typical 7-8 runs each day I can try a few different styles including TC on to check and see if I am trying to drive too hard...when TC on is faster you know
Cones...I was thinking about all the work setting up and taking down + resets if someone messes up bad.
sorry, electric hydraulic.. they are that right?
not just hydraulic like the classic S
brake feel is very different w/ the Bosch electric booster vs straight hydraulic.
Bosch feels very stiff
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AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Oh, there's a lot of that especially in the rain but the course was set up pretty wide for that reason.
What's really bad though is when someone shows up in an old BMW which then blows an oil cooler hose and spews oil over half of the track (literally). And then you have to try to sop it up with kitty litter, which is completely ineffective in the rain. Fortunately it rained heavily before the timed laps.
LionelHutz
Member
Shoulder wear on the tire looks similar to what a friend had with PSS on his S4–probably just what you’re going to see from throwing a heavy car around a tight track. What other cars were running with you and how did they fare?
SammichLover
Banned
That's probably how I'll end up going (though I'll be doing it the hard way again at least once more, due to time constrains, it works it's just an extra 5-10 min of futzing). Rather than tying the two sides together I'll just make the two females ends more accessible so I don't have to dig down to try unclip while I'm creating pressure on the belt by pushing the clipped in tires forward.
There's four difficulties at play. First, getting a sheet down to protect the seats from the tires and yet allowing access the the clip. Second is keeping the belt all the way out as you work on getting the tires clipped in, as you'll likely need pretty much the full length. Third is being able to get access to the clip without having the tires too far out, but you do need the 2nd set of tires out a little bit or you can't to the clip because, four it's going to be really tight fitting the tires across the back. I'm not even sure the stock tire height fits when they are perfectly side by side, stock height might need one set a little bit higher than the other to be able to close both doors?
An extender belt for each clip could help in that I could cut slits in the old, heavy cotton sheet I'm using to protect the seats and have them sticking through those holes. Right now I'm doing sort of a squish the sheet through the middle between them and pull it out to wrap around the tires. The sheet, a queen-size I believe, is big enough, but it's kinda awkward to set up and if the tires were dirtier than they have been it'd be easy to miss a spot and get scuffs on the seat.
I'm not sure a "universal" extender would work, but there's a few cheap ones of those out there that are under $10 for a pair. There's also a site with some that explicitly say they'll work on Model 3, "Seat Belt Extenders Pro", that are $20/each. I don't know enough about these things if the Model 3 explicit ones are the same deal, albeit it with somewhat shorter belts, but charging a "Tesla tax"?
StealthP3D
Well-Known Member
The white is a stray mark from me chalking the tires earlier to try get an idea about PSI. I think that was all just whizzing into the wind, though.
What pressures did you end up running with the MXM4's?
SammichLover
Banned
Where I've driven so far there are a few places that'll have a LOT of cones placed to keep people well clear on it. So many that they don't even bother to chalk the locations of individual cones because if you end up there you're probably taking 4 or 5 with you and there's no reason to quibble about specifics of penalty count.
It's partially on a sort of track complex. Around one turn there's a large skid pad to the inside of the turn. Course layout places a string of tightly spaced cones the whole way along this to make sure people stay off the skid pad, for what I think are obvious reasons.
Some times there are places where there's a rough spot off the edge of the pavement, or the apron slants away to the outside of the turn, and a flurry of cones are used in these areas to remind drivers to keep well clear of the hazards.Also depends on which club is running the event. Some clubs have more cones than others (this also can limit which venues certain clubs use).
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SammichLover
Banned
Front 48PSI, give or take. I had rear lower at 45 but that might have been an error, not sure. I tried to reset pressures between laps. My gauge at the time was of dubious quality and TPMS is near useless to try track that stuff. I borrowed a friend's quality gauge to set up prior when pumping up in the paddock, but once I was in grid I was just rough eyeballing it. Not sure it mattered that much though with those tires, other than it was enough pressure to keep the bead from blowing and sending me home on a flatbed.
If I had it to do all over again I would have ordered "proper" tires ahead of even the first event. The MXM4s are way out of depth here. But I did it all on a whim because a friend of a friend convinced me to try it, and didn't know if I'd like it. The new wheels only arrived a day after the second event, because they had been backordered.
P.S. I procured a 0-60 PSI Longacre now. Not an oil-filled but still precise and so far reliable (I think the oil-filled is more about longevity, we'll see). Also has a bleed button so really easy to keep the tire pressure on point.
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StealthP3D
Well-Known Member
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