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Performance not getting 310 miles promised
- Thread starter Dan_LA
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Set to low, like it cruises... I just plugged yesterday to charge 100%... it was 90%... today morning still 99% and saying 35 min to charge... so in 12 hrs basically to charge 10% and it didn't... pretty sure my battery is ****ed up since day 1... too discrepant compared to LR RWD... i know are two different apples, but still.
What's your wh/mi lifetime? And average now that we are on the summer?
now it's showing 100%... just opening the door and turning off a/c can drain 1% in 5 seconds? lol...
mal_tsla
Member
I think you're taking that % indicator way too seriously... there's no way to actually know the % charge of a Lith-Ion battery. It's an estimate based on voltage behavior while charging.
The only way to REALLY know precisely how much energy can be drawn from a lithium ion battery is to actually drain it to whatever your voltage cut-off is, and track what you've drawn along the way.
Everything else is an estimate. Your car is estimating the battery based on observations. Sometimes your % can actually go UP while the car sits parked. I've seen it go up 3-5%. Sometimes the % can drop more than you expect, because the battery is basically saying "yeah, what I told you earlier, that was wrong."
Anyway, the % is an estimate. The consumed wh/mile is a lot more trustworthy.
The only way to REALLY know precisely how much energy can be drawn from a lithium ion battery is to actually drain it to whatever your voltage cut-off is, and track what you've drawn along the way.
Everything else is an estimate. Your car is estimating the battery based on observations. Sometimes your % can actually go UP while the car sits parked. I've seen it go up 3-5%. Sometimes the % can drop more than you expect, because the battery is basically saying "yeah, what I told you earlier, that was wrong."
Anyway, the % is an estimate. The consumed wh/mile is a lot more trustworthy.
Having Regen set to low and then letting the car "coast" like that will absolutely kill your efficiency. Set your regen to standard and if you want to coast adjust your positioning of the accelerator pedal to the "neutral" spot to let it coast. (Or shift into Neutral.)
Jedi2155
Model 3 has Arrived.
Just let it sit charging to 100%, it helps "balance the pack" just make sure after it "completes charging" to bring it under 95% or so you don't hurt the battery. Also your Wh/mi would probably improve a lot if you set it to standard regen. For reference my lifetime is 275 Wh/mile and with the 24.4 update I'm now regularly getting 260 Wh/mi (stock 20" wheels/tires).
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Yea will be draining and checking it now carefully on Chill Mode and will set regen to standard now, but I think Alan told me that Low would be better cause either way the Standard would be "braking" somehow.. and then you are not coasting since you need to find the optimal pedal acceleration... but yea with my previous M3 LR RWD I always had set on Standard Regen and seems like the regen was getting back a lot of the energy... and I have read, regen can be responsible to up to 20-30% of the range? is that true folks?
I did that 100% time on my first M3 LR RWD... this one someone told me that doing that actually kills range? Since we are not "coasting" rather accelerating..? Dunno, not rock scientist here... will switch back to Standard now to try.
Will do now after 11k miles low regen... hope that helps. Thanks man! 275 is great! mine 321 sucks... 260 even better... can't even complain. Whats your aveerage mph since you are close to me, I can't keep up on 57, 60 freeway at 70 mph.. always need to go 75-80 ... mine is also 24.4 now.... didn;t notice big difference on efficiency.
Dr. J
Active Member
Regen doesn't work that way. Converting electrical energy from the battery to mechanical and back to electrical involves conversion losses. Each way is about 80% efficient, so that regenerated energy is ~64% efficient compared to where you started. So press the pedal to avoid the green line and the black line, and you'll be at peak efficiency.
Jedi2155
Model 3 has Arrived.
Chill doesn't impact your range that much TBH and I never turn it on. Its more to protect drivers who don't understand the power behind the car from going too fast too quickly.
Here's my typical route, I run autopilot most of the way adjusting between 65-75 mph most of the time. I'll accelerate as much as 80-90 mph at times but the average is pretty bad due to traffic. Typically 40-50 minutes for a 30 mile commute averaging 40-50 mph with a couple of stretches at 70-80.
Jedi2155
Model 3 has Arrived.
The problem with LA in particular is stop and go traffic and how quickly that occurs. If he's using a Low Regen setting and experiencing stop and go traffic as I imagine, he's not likely to be letting the car coast to minimize regen losses but rather burning up that energy in the brake pads. That is why I'd suggest he go standard vs. low.
ibGeek
Member
I have a Standard Plus with 18" aero wheels. Looking at the 20" wheels that Tesla uses, they seem to run very low profile tires. In fact the ride height is slightly lower (.5 in.) with the 20 inch wheels than the stock 17" wheels as long as you are on stock tires. I really can't see how that would affect your range that much. Make sure your re-gen is set to high (which you will learn to love if you stick with it for a week or two)
I really want to know how many miles your car says it has left when you battery is at 15% charge. That will tell you very accurately what your true range is.
I did some research and based on statistics I'm seeing you should be getting an average of 293 miles.
That is with an average of 500 lbs of cargo and 2% calculated battery degradation at 80°F Average speed of 65 mph.
These stats are from actual M3 performance owners. Unless you are in a much colder climate or regularly making massive altitude changes, these numbers should be fairly close for you as well.
For what it's worth, my average Wh/mi is: 263 So just a smidgen under 20% difference.
My car has a 60kw battery and I easily get the advertised 240 miles.
mal_tsla
Member
Regen is for slowing down. If you need to slow down, its better to regen than to make heat in your brake rotors.
If you don't need to slow down, press the accelerator enough to prevent slowing down.
No need to overthink coasting etc.
If you don't need to slow down, press the accelerator enough to prevent slowing down.
No need to overthink coasting etc.
mal_tsla
Member
There's no way a p3d is going to get 300 miles when driven typically. That is an EPA test result for the AWD model, which comes with low friction tires, not sticky PS4 michelins.
Whatever loophole allows Tesla to claim results for the p3d that don't match what it would get as-sold needs to be closed
Whatever loophole allows Tesla to claim results for the p3d that don't match what it would get as-sold needs to be closed
ibGeek
Member
I'm sorry but I believe you've been miss informed. Regen uses the motors to regenerate power and put said power back in to the battery. The resistance is the result of this process. I agree that regen is not going to give you a ton of battery back, but it most certainly does not cause you to lose it. Also Regen is disabled 100% when you touch the brakes on a Model 3, this is often overlooked.
Actually Tesla rates the mileage lower than the EPA tests for all of their cars. I admit that I am no tire expert, so I will concede that the tires could cause a range drop. That might also be why you can now get a P3D with regular wheels. I hear those low profile tires are prone to blowout and a bitch to find if you have one so I wouldn't want them on my car to begin with. Then again, I'm not planning to head to the track either.
ModelNforNerd
Active Member
It's more about the unsprung weight than it is about the tires.
Case in point: I have a P3D- (2018 style). I use the 18s with Primacies for my winter and spring tires.
I have 19's with Pilot 4Ss on them (same tires on the P3D+, but in 19" form). That set up is ~6.5lbs lighter per wheel than the P3D+ setup.
In the early stages after doing my seasonal wheel swap, I was running at about 271wh/mi with the summer setup. Now that the tires aren't brand new and some of the rolling resistance has worn off, I'm within 2wh/mi of my lifetime efficiency.
~21,000 miles on the 18s = 267wh/mi
~4,200 miles on the 19s = 269 wh/mi
Damn I think i found problem. My batterh is the 62kwh!!!!! I drove like grandma 165 miles, gave me 45 kwh spent at 270 wh/mi... charge shows 28%. Its simple math! Can someone confirm battery of model 3 performance from December 2018?!!
I am getting 220miles since day 1. How’s that? Figured out today I got the mid range battery...
Yep, the only way is I got the Mid Range battery 62kwh NOT the one I paid for 75kwh LONG RANGE. Huge mistake.
Another service scheduled in Buena Park, CA
Dude found the problem... I have the wromg battery hahaha 62kwh... not the 75kwh. And I did ordered Long Range. Someone screwed up badly.
Tesla Model 3 Performance owner here from November 2018. Still get 306 miles per 100% charge. This is after 35,000+ miles on the vehicle since then, mostly supercharging as I drive long distances (yes I charge at home and my destination at all opportunities, I even made a YouTube video going over charging). Maybe got a bad battery pack?
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