-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Plaid 21” rear tire woes - factory defect?
- Thread starter KOL2000
- Start date
MFrunkerOG
Active Member
Awiner
Member
Wow. Take some photos. I thought roads here couldn’t get worse but apparently I’m pretty fortunate.
I'll see if I can get some photos to give you an idea. I just drove all over the LA metro area the past 2 weeks and didn't see anything like I deal with in my area. I was as far north as Santa Barbara down to the OC and east as far as Inland Empire. I think we drove close to 1k miles where there. I think they use some of the roads like culverts or drainage ditches. While there are some areas that are due to tire wear, most of this looks intentional.
The first day I drove my S out of the house, the same way I drove my Y, the nose of the S slammed into to the opposing side of one these steep approach/departure events that the car literally almost came to a stop. The entire car shook from the impact. The Y cleared all the time but I had no idea how much it actually cleared. I immediately set the suspension on very high and told it to remember.
All was good for a while until the car "forget" to raise itself and I repeated the nose dive into the upraised side of the road. Now every time I get in the car, part of my preflight checklist is to check the suspension is in the very high mode when leaving the house. I also double-check when coming home if I return the way I normally leave.
Awiner
Member
You may actually benefit from finding a set of the older N2itive links that allowed a suspension raise over stock.
MFrunkerOG
Active Member
Hmm. I didn’t know that existed.
But be careful about raising too much. The front plastic skid plate isn’t flat to the ground. It’s sort of raised in the front and that causes lift in the front.
Awiner
Member
Hey everyone, I’m new to this thread and read all 56 pages after searching for solutions to a premature tire failure on my 2021 Tesla Model S Long Range with 21” Arachnid wheels and Michelin Pilot 4S tires. Pic attached with failure at about 10,000 miles.
I have filed a warranty claim request with Michelin and I’m awaiting their reply.
I have also filed a report with NHTSA given the potential severity of a negative outcome if the tire blows out at speed.
I am also considering the N2itive camber arms and alignment at the “Low” setting after the camber arms are installed. I am also considering the lowering links to stave off front half-shaft issues, but I am concerned about lowering the car too much and bottoming out and scraping. My Model S also doesn’t have acceleration shudder, so probably don’t need the lowering links anyways.
I am interested in hearing any lessons learned or advice from other forum members that have installed the the N2itive camber arms and lowering links.
Thanks!
I have filed a warranty claim request with Michelin and I’m awaiting their reply.
I have also filed a report with NHTSA given the potential severity of a negative outcome if the tire blows out at speed.
I am also considering the N2itive camber arms and alignment at the “Low” setting after the camber arms are installed. I am also considering the lowering links to stave off front half-shaft issues, but I am concerned about lowering the car too much and bottoming out and scraping. My Model S also doesn’t have acceleration shudder, so probably don’t need the lowering links anyways.
I am interested in hearing any lessons learned or advice from other forum members that have installed the the N2itive camber arms and lowering links.
Thanks!
Attachments
I came into MSP ownership prepared to replace rear tires every 7-10k miles with OEM 21s. Yea, sht sandwich, but world class power is world class power.
I’m leaving mine bone stock. Yes, a little lower than low would look siq on a set of HREs, but you’re introducing aftermarket variables to a bagged suspension/chassis that’s more software driven than anything this side of M/AMG/911 to date which many of us know so well. KW, JRZ, Nitron, rose joints, rear trailing arm tabs, Guards LSDs, the list goes on and on.
The last air suspension car I owned was a Range Rover Sport Autobiography. I lowered it ~”1 via lowering module on 22s and it sucked for ride quality and reliability. Could never trust it and I’m the same way with Tesla’s mechanical components so while under f warranty, best to keep the knowns… known.
With that said, I will keep my eyes peeled on this thread. Fight the good fight!
I’m leaving mine bone stock. Yes, a little lower than low would look siq on a set of HREs, but you’re introducing aftermarket variables to a bagged suspension/chassis that’s more software driven than anything this side of M/AMG/911 to date which many of us know so well. KW, JRZ, Nitron, rose joints, rear trailing arm tabs, Guards LSDs, the list goes on and on.
The last air suspension car I owned was a Range Rover Sport Autobiography. I lowered it ~”1 via lowering module on 22s and it sucked for ride quality and reliability. Could never trust it and I’m the same way with Tesla’s mechanical components so while under f warranty, best to keep the knowns… known.
With that said, I will keep my eyes peeled on this thread. Fight the good fight!
Last edited:
Hayseed_MS
Spreader of "Endless Non Sequitur"
Speak from my experience on current set of OEM (T2 marked) 21"': Approx. 8k miles in 2 months. Down to an even 5/32". Normal wear on inside edge but no sings of delamination coming and no air loss. Car is completely stock.
Eatsleepboost
Member
I tried other shims. I loosened the bolts then used a 3ft pry bar between the lower control arm and the car body to get the leverage needed to pull down so the upper arm then comes away from the mounting point to create enough room to slide the shims in.
Been lurking and read 30pgs of this thread and will add my experience and pictures too...
I don't even have a Plaid, just a Long Range 2022 Model S on 22" stock arachnids. I also drive smooth and slow in Chill mode. Never used "Low" suspension setting because I would scrape my driveway if I do that.
Like most of you, I am very OCD about tire pressure and tire wear so I check it all the time and noticed at 14-15k on stock tires that the rear tires were leaking air.
I don't even have a Plaid, just a Long Range 2022 Model S on 22" stock arachnids. I also drive smooth and slow in Chill mode. Never used "Low" suspension setting because I would scrape my driveway if I do that.
Like most of you, I am very OCD about tire pressure and tire wear so I check it all the time and noticed at 14-15k on stock tires that the rear tires were leaking air.
When you go over 70mph, the car automatically goes into the low setting, and when you get below 70mph, the car automatically raises back to medium.
I think most of us here now agree it's mostly because of too much toe out, not camber. But, the excessive camber does exacerbate the toe wear.
Please send these pictures as part of a recall input here--Michelin and Tesla need to get these tires off the road before someone gets hurt:
Report a Safety Problem | NHTSA
File a complaint with NHTSA if you experienced a vehicle, tire, car seat or equipment safety problem that could be a safety defect.
Only takes a few minutes.
Thanks!
Yes, toe has a bigger effect than camber, with regards to tire wear. That's why it's best to have an indy shop do an alignment in the "low" setting.
You can message Macboost on Facebook to help you out. He had me use a heavy duty screw driver as a pry bar. Stuck it in the top side of the rotor and pulled with full body weight. Had a second person work the shim in place. It took a few tries and I was concerned that I was going to break something. But working with Macboost I pulled harder and harder until I got it worked out. Second side was easier.
If referring to the Macsboost shims, "gently" use a prybar or very big screwdriver to make some room after you have loosened everything up a bit. Reach out to Macsboost as well, they have been responsive to me in the past.
Similar threads
