Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Plaid Vibration around 38-42MPH....

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Yes, because it's not the same problem.
Correct. My first Model S had the shudder under hard accepleration. Front shafts fixed that.

The Plaid issue is not shudder under hard acceleration, but a vibration under gradual acceleration around 40-45mph.

I have personally experienced both in different cars. There is a difference.
 
Actually it is. Read first post. If that's not the problem, then what is?
From the first post...

1682717658422.png


This sounds like what I described.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WilliamG
Correct. My first Model S had the shudder under hard accepleration. Front shafts fixed that.

The Plaid issue is not shudder under hard acceleration, but a vibration under gradual acceleration around 40-45mph.

I have personally experienced both in different cars. There is a difference.
So I think I'm experiencing the same issue with the Plaid S I just picked up 3 days ago... It feels a bit like my old Volts starting the ICE engine to charge the batteries; I was thinking maybe it was the condenser kicking in to warm the batteries, or maybe a malfunctioning noise cancellation setup so I switched that off on the audio settings (and turned off the surround sound enhancements) but no difference. I feel it as slow as 25 and it can be pretty boomy (pressure on ears feels a bit like rear window being left open except it is a consistent booming low frequency - I feel the pressure in my ears and vibration on the floor more than noise in my ears).

I too have been in a couple of Performance X that had half shaft issues and this is not remotely like that as far as what I experienced.

Sounds like I'm just going to have to live with it?
 
Sounds like I'm just going to have to live with it?
Until Tesla decides to own up (and provide a solution), yes.

Just like other issues they choose not to fix. Such as excessive inner rear tire wear. They could easily change the rear camber arms to be adjustable which has been reported to fix this. Popular choice of replacement... NEW! N2itive SX-P2 Adjustable Camber Arms - Fixes Tesla X/S Crazy Rear Tire Wear!

There is likely a solution, but it is likely not inexpensive to implement. Some have stated that the height of the front motor mounting makes for steep angle drive shafts and that is causing an issue (seems unlikely to me). So be sure to run in Low for speed runs, but don't run in Low to minimize rear tire wear. Make up your mind Tesla...
 
For you guys who have done the N2itive cambers arms and lowering links on your MSPs, welcome your thoughts on my current situation. I had the links and arms installed on the same day I mounted my 20x10 ET 32 aftermarket wheels. I asked the shop to set the links at -5 all around. When they did the alignment, they unilaterally decided to not adjust camber to N2itive's specifications as they feared doing so would cause the rear wheels to rub the fenders. My tire size all around is 285/35/20. Wheel manufacturer says rubbing should not be an issue with this setup and I went with the least aggressive lowering I could to ward off the half-shaft issue, which I already have anyway.

So my question - anyone with a similar setup/specs, and are you seeing rubbing at the recommended rear camber setting? I was fine with the factory stance so the only reason I did any of this suspension work was to address the half-shaft vibration and mitigate the inner tire wear issue. I'm debating removing the lowering links at this point if this rubbing is a real concern. Car is borderline too low for me as it stands right now. My rear camber is currently at -1.80 or close to that, which does absolutely nothing to mitigate the rear tire wear issue.
 
Apparently from about the 15 pages of this thread I read, my LR was a unicorn. Smooth as silk at all speeds. My Plaid has the vibration exactly in the 38-42 mph range. I noticed it for the first time yesterday going up a hill.

While I haven't read through all the posts I want to make sure I understand it and maybe help others with a recap.

Possible root cause:
From what I read, it seems like the issue is likely with the front motor. Could be the half shafts, their angle or maybe some synchronicity problem between the front motor and rears. Is this an accurate summation?

Possible solution:
Run a lower ride height if possible? Track mode if with a Plaid with 100% rear bias. Has anyone tried something other than 50/50 or 0/100? Anything else I am missing?

Running with lowering links is not an option where I live. The city of Dallas has some incredible steep approach and departure angle where there are sort of drainage areas along the sides. So when you cross some of these roads, I literally have to crawl across slow enough with the suspension on max height (which limits me to 15 mph anyway) to not slam my nose while crossing.

If I am on the next level down from max height, my nose will be grinding into the ground on a lot of them. So lowering links aren't very viable for me. Not mention some of the highway are such crap, that I've been very close to the nose hitting when on low at 60 mph.

Then with the lower ride height, I then will have an even worse camber issue. We all know where that leads.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jebinc