There is a lot of truth to this, however situations are very specific. It does not impact our repair process.
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Preventive eMMC replacement on MCU1
- Thread starter widodh
- Start date
There is a lot of truth to this, however situations are very specific. It does not impact our repair process.
So what part is true?
What kind of access have they closed?
What about changing the modem form 3G to LTE?
I'm going to have my emmc replaced by LuckyLuke very soon (as soon as my extended warranty expires) and i'm still on 2019.32.12.7, because (luckly) i have an issue with a door handle that unable's me to make any updates, so i'm really interested in knowing what have they close with 2019.40
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.40 "there are lots of security fixes" We wont have issues upgrading your eMMC when your ready. LTE should upgrade fine.
Duke-U
Member
Just today replaced my eMMC by @LuckyLuke while on 40.2.5 without a problem. Everything running smooth, did a factory reset and the car is like new!
Off topic: In my last post I mentioned replacing the 12V battery. I did that yesterday, here is an image. Nothing is ever straight forward, the terminal screws are M6, the original lead acid used what look like M5 screws so rather than modify the terminal adaptors (more involved than just drilling out those holes to 6mm) I turned up a couple of new brass ones. Both batteries have the same footprint but the new one is 11mm taller and because the terminal polarity is reversed they end up further forward. Old battery 33Ah, new battery claims 40Ah. The frunk bucket still fits which is a relief. New battery cost $450 AUD.
On topic: eMMC fail symptoms still persist (no surprise there). If Tesla did the fix would the replaced MCU still have an 8GB chip or are Tesla using 16GB chips these days ?
Off topic: With the frunk bucket out I noticed the AC condensate hose was dirrecting water onto the floor of the frunk (the glued on P clip had detached) so today's job is to re-plumb that to a better place (probably the right hand wheel arch).
On topic: eMMC fail symptoms still persist (no surprise there). If Tesla did the fix would the replaced MCU still have an 8GB chip or are Tesla using 16GB chips these days ?
Off topic: With the frunk bucket out I noticed the AC condensate hose was dirrecting water onto the floor of the frunk (the glued on P clip had detached) so today's job is to re-plumb that to a better place (probably the right hand wheel arch).
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Tesla replaces with same 8 gig chip. 3rd party is only way to get upgrade.
possum22
Member
Where did you get the battery from/link? My car is 5 years old now, don't know how old the battery is, maybe it will need replacing soon?
My car is a 2015 RWD with the battery near cabin bulkhead, I think there maybe enough room back there to allow for the extra height.
eBay.
Here is a link: 12V 40AH Lithium Battery LiFePO4 Rechargeable 4 Golf Buggy Caravan Kayak Fishing | eBay
In case the link does not survive moderation searching for '12V 40AH Lithium Battery LiFePO4 Rechargeable 4 Golf Buggy Caravan Kayak Fishing' should find it. Current price $449 AUD with free shipping from Heidelberg west, Victoria, Australia. You can get 12V LiFePO4 batteries from the US designed for the job but they cost about $1000 by the time they get to Australia (search YouTube for installation videos from the folks selling those).
Please be aware I don't know what I'm doing so my car could catch fire and burn down my house or the DC to DC converter might expire in a small cloud of blue smoke (should either happen I'll make a post on TMC). I have no idea of the quality of the product but it does claim to have a built in BMS (I should jolly well hope it does). It has been working faultlessly for 12 hours now (damming by faint praise perhaps).
I think just like with the battery Tesla replaces something under warranty after it fails. They don't tend to do repairs based on a predicted failure.
Typically they replace it when they can no longer read the value (meaning failed part.)
I was under the impression my eMMC chip was starting to fail. The symptom that made me think that was that after entering the car and pressing on the brake pedal the 'P' would not always come up immediately as I'm used to, sometimes a delay would occur of 20 seconds or so (it varied) before the car would display the 'P', after which I could select 'D' or 'R' or 'N'. The whole problem was intermittent although it seemed most likely to occur after the car had sat overnight, plugged in, in my garage. It's summer here, the weather is always mild or hot.
However a fortnight ago I changed the ageing (at least 4.5 years old) 12V battery. I have not had the fault (described above) since.
Question: is it possible what I was attributing to a failing eMMC was just a symptom of a failing 12V battery ?
However a fortnight ago I changed the ageing (at least 4.5 years old) 12V battery. I have not had the fault (described above) since.
Question: is it possible what I was attributing to a failing eMMC was just a symptom of a failing 12V battery ?
GlmnAlyAirCar
Active Member
Here’s a slightly unusual symptom of emmc failure. Prior to having mine replaced, I would often play 2048 on the mcu while waiting in car line to pick up the kids. Once the line started moving, I quickly exited the game, but it took like what seemed forever before the car would be ready to drive. A huge gap would open in front of me and people would be getting annoyed behind me.
After replacing the emmc, the car is ready to start instantly after quitting the game. Now I’m a good carline citizen.
After replacing the emmc, the car is ready to start instantly after quitting the game. Now I’m a good carline citizen.
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