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@DanDi58 Hold mode only uses the brakes to hold the car still, not to decelerate. See this discussion which matches my observations of Hold mode:
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/posts/6357213/
This is true for ANY new set of brakes, on ANY car.OP - "needed to use some brakes and she did NOT want to stop"
Most folk probably don't also know that ANY new tire on ANY car requires 100 miles (+/-) for the "release material" coating on the tire to wear off and for the tire to achieve maximum traction. Fact.
Soooo...add both those factors in, and you've got slightly slick tires, and brakes not at 100% yet. I find it strange that this isn't common knowledge, as both these factors are very real.
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If you drive how most people drive - nowhere near the limit of grip - then new tire greasiness isn't a problem. Plus even brand new cars usually have a few miles on them before they get into a customer's hands.
New tire greasiness IS real though. You can find it mentioned on many tire manufacturer websites and I experienced it myself recently when I forgot about it and took some ramps aggressively on a brand new set of tires, probably less than 20 miles on them (the afternoon after getting them mounted). Got the back sliding out real good when I didn't mean to at all. Now those tires stick GREAT, tons of grip...they were just greasy when brand new.
Edit: Also ICE cars have a break in period where even people who drive their cars hard, will take it easy. That's mostly for the engine but in practice I think people go gentle on the car overall.
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mspohr
Well-Known Member
The usual advice on bedding in brake pads is to go easy on them for a few hundred miles to allow for even wear, etc.
Don't do hard braking until they are bedded in.
Wow. That's NOT what I've learned driving for the past 45 years. In fact, quite the opposite. Firm, not aggressive, braking early on.
Break in period went out in the 1960's. Engines nowadays are made with such precision
norcalbowler94
Member
@norcalbowler94 TACC uses the friction brakes as needed, when regen is not sufficient.
If your Tesla has regular CC - Autopilot not purchased/enabled - I suspect that would only use regen when you reduce the set speed, even in an Autopilot capable car. (Though AEB could still kick in and that would use friction brakes.)
In my pre-Autopilot S (no AP hardware at all) CC can only slow down using regen of course (when I manually reduce CC speed). As best I know that car has no way to actuate the friction brakes on its own, I must press the pedal for them to ever be used. Whereas in my Model 3 with basic Autopilot using HW 3.0, TACC definitely uses the friction brakes as needed, stopping harder from highway speeds than it ever does using just one pedal driving (and will do so without AEB needing to kick in usually).
This raises an interesting question...is TACC allowed to use stronger regen than the car's normal one pedal driving mode? Like can it use up to the max regen allowed in Track Mode? (I need to get ScanMyTesla setup so I can answer these questions!)
Tevo Solutions
Former Vendor
Bedding the brakes on a new Model 3 or Y (or any car come to that) is essential as the OP says. Braking efficiency improves dramatically if you take the time to do this and it will also help keep your discs free of corrosion later if you use regen mostly.
I thought the brakes on my M3P were not great when I first got it, but after proper bedding and with a few hundred miles on them they were better the M-Sport BMW I still had at the time.
You can also swap the factory-fitted Brembo HP1000 pads for HP2000 (Brembo Sport pads) on the front and this will give you even better feel and bite.
I thought the brakes on my M3P were not great when I first got it, but after proper bedding and with a few hundred miles on them they were better the M-Sport BMW I still had at the time.
You can also swap the factory-fitted Brembo HP1000 pads for HP2000 (Brembo Sport pads) on the front and this will give you even better feel and bite.
Bedding in your breaks is also noted in their online support:
Model 3 Do It Yourself Guide | Tesla
View the Model 3 Do It Yourself Guide to learn more about self-service procedures for your Tesla.
www.tesla.com
Assuming that the brake pads are also from Brembo, here is Brembo's bedding/break-in procedure;
The discs are delivered with a thin zinc coating to prevent corrosion. Prior to beginning the bedding procedure, this plating must be removed from the braking surfaces by driving the car slowly (under 30 mph) and performing very light brake applications in order to remove the plating without generating heat. With too much heat or pressure, this plating can be deposited unevenly on the disc, and impregnated into the pad, further increasing the likelihood of judder development. Once the visual inspection of the braking surfaces confirms that the plating has been evenly removed, then the bedding procedure can begin. The entire bedding procedure must be complete before driving the vehicle as normal. It is especially important that this process is completed before any extended same-speed driving is done (i.e., freeway travel). Failure to follow these instructions greatly increases the likelihood of judder development.
After installing new pads and rotors, find a safe stretch of road and perform at least 30 brake applications of 3 second duration. Use light/medium deceleration with varying starting speeds. Leave at least ½ mile between each brake application.
o Do not brake so hard that the ABS is activated! Do not brake so lightly that the pads do not come up to temperature.
o Do NOT come to a complete stop! If you stop, then pad material will immediately be deposited onto one spot on the rotor, and you will get a
vibration!
The purpose of this procedure is to gradually increase the temperature in the components without thermal shock, and to mate the brake pad and disc friction
surfaces.
After the repeated stops, drive the vehicle for several miles with little or no braking in order to adequately cool the components.
The system is now ready for normal use.
Proper break-in of your rotors and pads is critical in maximizing braking performance and help extend the service life of your new components.
The discs are delivered with a thin zinc coating to prevent corrosion. Prior to beginning the bedding procedure, this plating must be removed from the braking surfaces by driving the car slowly (under 30 mph) and performing very light brake applications in order to remove the plating without generating heat. With too much heat or pressure, this plating can be deposited unevenly on the disc, and impregnated into the pad, further increasing the likelihood of judder development. Once the visual inspection of the braking surfaces confirms that the plating has been evenly removed, then the bedding procedure can begin. The entire bedding procedure must be complete before driving the vehicle as normal. It is especially important that this process is completed before any extended same-speed driving is done (i.e., freeway travel). Failure to follow these instructions greatly increases the likelihood of judder development.
After installing new pads and rotors, find a safe stretch of road and perform at least 30 brake applications of 3 second duration. Use light/medium deceleration with varying starting speeds. Leave at least ½ mile between each brake application.
o Do not brake so hard that the ABS is activated! Do not brake so lightly that the pads do not come up to temperature.
o Do NOT come to a complete stop! If you stop, then pad material will immediately be deposited onto one spot on the rotor, and you will get a
vibration!
The purpose of this procedure is to gradually increase the temperature in the components without thermal shock, and to mate the brake pad and disc friction
surfaces.
After the repeated stops, drive the vehicle for several miles with little or no braking in order to adequately cool the components.
The system is now ready for normal use.
Proper break-in of your rotors and pads is critical in maximizing braking performance and help extend the service life of your new components.
Just did mine. I charged the car to 95% and set the stopping mode to “roll”. There’s little regen when the car is charged over 90%. I did about 15-20 stops from 40-70mph. That’s when I started smelling the brakes I figured it’s was enough. Kept driving another 10 miles to cool down before making a full stop. This is what the rotors look like now for front and rear…
I tried using the brake and accelerator simultaneously and much to my surprise it worked. A nasty-gram appeared saying something like 'motor torque disengaged, manual braking only.' My rotors look like yours now.
Newer Mercedes and BMWs also lightly drag the brakes periodically when the rain sensors are activated to keep the rotors dry. Large open wheel designs, especially with large brakes, allow the rotors to get wet. I've scared myself a few times that way as well. On other cars, I've had to get slotted rotors to fix that problem.
I don't think so. If its quiet, you can listen to your car... When my car rolls to a stop, you can hear (and see the H) when the friction brakes engage. I don't see it engaging until after the car comes to a stop.
Tevo Solutions
Former Vendor
It doesn't. Brakes aren't used to slow the car unless using Autopilot or there's an AEB incident.
Also, just for clarity sakes, when you are bedding the brakes, you don't want to come to a complete stop. The instructions that came with my StopTech rotors said to do 50mph to 5mph stops. You do like 6 in a row, without letting the brakes cool, then you let the brakes cool for a minute, and repeat the process 1 or 2 more times.. It said the most important part is to not come to a complete stop. Its says if you come to a complete stop before completing the steps, the pad can leave uneven deposits on the rotor, causing vibrations. (It says you can repeat the bedding process if that happens)
