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I checked mine and there's about a 1mm gap there and no rust. I somehow dodged a bullet on this one.

The metal contact itself shouldn't necessarily cause the problem, it could be that the metals used in the two different components are not galvanized and are reacting causing this almost immediate corrosion.

Ninja, you are 100 percent correct. It is not just the paint, but the metal types, AND the galvanisation, AND the overall prep. Not all steels are the same, with the same composition and metallurgy.. They are not all cold pressed or cold phased pressed. 2000s Hyundais and Mazdas were nothing like Toyota, nor is Model S built with the same materials as Model 3. Model 3 is is CHEAPLY MADE where you may not think it matters.. You might get away with it in Chicago, in Arizona, and even in New Jersey. But keep the fol in mind. Have seen some Model 3s in Quebec, and they look atrocious after their ONE winter to date. French reports pretty much killed Tesla sales in Quebec. The entire car needs to be ppfe. It is less the cars own sanding doing the trick as opposed to salt projectiles thrown against the car by other cars. The rust I saw on one winter Model 3s reminds me of 2000s Hyundais and Mazdas- that bad. it is a combination of factors, including cheapo metal, cheapo paint, cheapo everything.

Some of the bodywork I do is cosmetic repair to stone chipped cars. Germans such as Audi BMW, with their ULSAB-AC steels, seen them shiny still 2-3 winters after the owner admitted seeing it first. And in Quebec and Ontario they use 24% salinity, twice the sea level rate. the cars swim in this for months, December to March. But the metallurgy is superior, period. The same as Honda metal sheets and not AMG, BMW or Porsche, nor is Model S like Model 3 (Al alloy being the primary difference). In my estimate, these Model 3s (and mine is not frequently driven in winter) will be serious garbage past year 5-6, when the battery impedance, as well as paint and rust will kill their residual value. So whereas a premium 50-80,000$ maintained car normally holds a good 10-20000$ value (or higher), the paint and rust issue on the Model 3 is a real serious liability.

If you have a dishwasher, I am sure you found out not all "stainless steels" are alike. Some cheapo ones corrode. Good ones never. Or they do but 1000 times slower than cheap steel.

What will happen, is what I forecasted a few years ago when all 2006+ Blue Black or Silver civics started peeling off. In the US it was Class Actioned and repainted. In Canada, not. However, Quebec now has a Class Action as of a few weeks ago, ALL Civics, 100,000 or so vehicle, some 240,000 million USD. Of course, Honda tried to buy off owners with 2000-3000$ cash incentive towards a new car, but owners massively refused. Looks liek Honda will have to pay for a full repaint. Consequently, the exact same thing will happen to Tesla in Canada. The issue is, however, residual sale. Once the car gets so much cosmetic repairs, its VIN gets tagged so -30% overnight depreciation. And yes, Scandinavian countries and Germany will hit hard as soon as ten owners report premature rust. IT SHOULD NEVER HAPPEN ON A PREMIUM VEHICLE. Unless, tesla is willing to admit that it has world leading EV pack, premium interior feel but shaved 10,000$ by giving a Lada grade subpremium subchassis and body? Time is telling us right now: Model S superior. Model 3 inferior. 90,000$ for an AWD in my country, owners will go bunkers with it rusting..

Now contrast this with 2000s BMWs, Mercedes (and they were outsold 100-1 by Japanese then), that still look today nearly as mint as when new, no rust. Then the Germans used ULSAB steels, galvanized, plus UBER THICK paint. even non-galvanized 18 yr old e3x e4x series, with repairs, rust progression would stop. Those were the last ungalvanized bavarians (keep in mind that galvanized German was superior to galvanized korean for example). After 2000s, the ULSAB standards migrated to mainstream premium Germans, so now mega resistance (we can thank Porsche for launching the consortium).. Audi switched a few years ago as well. Presently, BMW Porsche AMG, Volvo, Audi are using ULSAB AC, so basically 12 years for a Premium German does mean 12 years warranty, decades zero rust with maintenance. Top steels, top treatment, top primer, top thick paint. With Tesla is a flat lie: it is 12 year and 100% rejectable if you rust-proofed it, if you "did not clean the salts" or if you "neglected cleaning." In Germany 12 means 12 yrs unlimited, the entire panel gets replaced, the car repainted and heat baked to spec. When repainting my Civic nth time a few years ago, the one approved repaint centre in Ottawa told me having seen one German under warranty in 10 years. ONE. Lexus? Year 2. Yep, 80,000$ Lexus are rusting by their second winter... Infiniti? Year 5 6. Germans (minus VW?) statistically close to nil. In practical terms, given the way they survive winter, cuddos to German protection laws as they hold makers to account. but German HATE rust hence why their cars are awesome (FYI, WWII German tanks are still structurally sound even if rusting in Middle East and European exposed locations) FYI, in addition to our model 3, our two German cars have a combined 300,000 kms, 12 winters, 48 months of salt driven, generally weekly washes, and even wheel well painted areas, that thick German paint is still on. Or polishable.

The only real solution for Model 3 is a good ppfe. Not rustproofing as it voids the warranty. And keep a Model S...
 
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Anyone have experience with successfully stopping rust like this? I don't need it restored to new condition, I just want to halt the progress of the rust. Plus driving 5 hours and being without my car for possibly several days doesn't sound like a good time to me.

You cannot stop it, on this cheap metal. You can slow it down. Go to an experienced bodyworker, patch it and ptfe it with a very good film e.g. Suntek. That will UV, pressure, scratch and abrasion protect that area plus it will be invisible. You can order small transparent protecting film online. At a later date, additional mechanism will cover you once the manufacturer is reigned in on fixing this. But my eye tells me that this type of rapid onset rust eats through no matter what, even under the paint where not visible. A shame for a "premium car". I would also Suntek the hood, fenders, A pillars AND the bottom side. No salts or rocks will break through that invisible film.
 
Well my 2012 Audi A3 is rusting at some places. One in particular due to a design issue for evacuating water between front panel and drivers' door. I had the door corner fixed by Audi because the water frozed there and bend the corners' door.
However a year later, and in so precisely described quebecer's winters, the rockpanel of my Audi is rusting big time.

I went twice to Audi and twice they declined the fix. Even with their 10 years rust warranty.
It will be my trade-in for my Model 3.

Which I am planning to ppf, entirely. a 4000+ $CAD job. Half the FSD I would have prefer to commit to.

This is where I believe, Tesla made a poor design decision (thin paint, cheap steel) because it cannibalized their FSD sales. (or even me going LR instead of SR+)... Well, this is 4000+$ they won't see.
 
Just checked my car, June 2019 build, driver side rubbing with paint loss - no visible rust but there was some reddisf tint on the ruuber seal of the door so I don't know if it came from rust. Anyways, made a service appointment for next week.
 
I scheduled a service appointment and Tesla fixed it Nov 6. No questions asked.

Mine on the driver’s side was barely touching. There was some wear but did not appear to be enough to cause rusting. I loosened the uppermost bolt on the quarter panel, pulled it out slightly, and retightened. There's a bit of play. No need for a service appointment.

Similar fixes for my front bumper cover misalignment with the quarter panel and the trunk lid alignment with the C-pillar. I'm almost tempted to re-align my doors myself. Someone who's realigned their doors - feel free to PM me with the details of exactly how to do it!
 
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Mine on the driver’s side was barely touching. There was some wear but did not appear to be enough to cause rusting. I loosened the uppermost bolt on the quarter panel, pulled it out slightly, and retightened. There's a bit of play. No need for a service appointment.

Similar fixes for my front bumper cover misalignment with the quarter panel and the trunk lid alignment with the C-pillar. I'm almost tempted to re-align my doors myself. Someone who's realigned their doors - feel free to PM me with the details of exactly how to do it!

Sounds like a relatively easy fix. Might try it myself. How do you access the bolt you mentioned? Take out wheel well liner?
 
Sounds like a relatively easy fix. Might try it myself. How do you access the bolt you mentioned? Take out wheel well liner?

It is very easy and avoids any need to try to bend the sheet metal. No, liner removal is not required; it's accessible by opening the door (it's in the hinge area). I just used a socket and a standard ratchet. I think I used a deep socket but I really don't remember. Just have to be able to get on the bolt (you could use a standard socket and short extension too). You might want to wrap the bolt and/or the inside of the socket in tape to try to avoid flaking off any paint on the bolt head (not that that matters much).

I think it was a 10mm bolt - but I honestly don't remember that either.

After loosening, I simultaneously gently pulled out the fender to get the clearance I wanted, then tightened.
 
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It is very easy and avoids any need to try to bend the sheet metal. No, liner removal is not required; it's accessible by opening the door (it's in the hinge area). I just used a socket and a standard ratchet. I think I used a deep socket but I really don't remember. Just have to be able to get on the bolt (you could use a standard socket and short extension too). You might want to wrap the bolt and/or the inside of the socket in tape to try to avoid flaking off any paint on the bolt head (not that that matters much).

I think it was a 10mm bolt - but I honestly don't remember that either.

After loosening, I simultaneously gently pulled out the fender to get the clearance I wanted, then tightened.
Holy crap, that was the easiest 1 minute fix ever! Thanks for the advice!

My car is 5 months old. No rust, but it does look like the white paint is rubbed. I wonder if I should take a small paint brush and dab something on it to ensure rust doesn't happen? Any ideas what to use?
 
No idea...since I don't see any rust, I'm not worrying about it for now. If I see anything, I'll probably do some gentle sanding and then use touchup paint.

Thanks for the tip! I just adjusted my fender using your method and it is perfect now. 10mm bolt was exactly right. Took less than 5 minutes. No more rubbing and no trip to service center!
 
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Hopefully this is not Tesla trying to get itself off this issue.

Tesla Includes Rust Prevention In Updated Model 3 Owner's Manual

P.s. my Dec. 2018 has a couple millimeters gap.

I lived in snow country for a good part of my early life and was driving before I left. My dad would always get his car washed and underside sprayed off when the weather was condusive to do so. I also remember all the road salt that would be under the car when he pulled it out of the garage and the garage floor would subsequently get a good cleaning. So seeing something in the manual about removing road salt doesn't surprise me. Thought that was just common sense.
 
Mine on the driver’s side was barely touching. There was some wear but did not appear to be enough to cause rusting. I loosened the uppermost bolt on the quarter panel, pulled it out slightly, and retightened. There's a bit of play. No need for a service appointment.

Similar fixes for my front bumper cover misalignment with the quarter panel and the trunk lid alignment with the C-pillar. I'm almost tempted to re-align my doors myself. Someone who's realigned their doors - feel free to PM me with the details of exactly how to do it!

Mine aren't touching, but the panel could be aligned better. I'm going to try this, and maybe the front bumper on the passenger side later. Thanks!
 
When this thread first went up I went out and checked my 9/2018 built Model 3. The space was tight but not touching on the left (and yes more room on the right side), I did manually tug a little on the left side and I moved it slightly more away from the body with a more visible gap now there. Just thought I'd give a 9/2018 reference point.

I thought they were running two lines for the Model 3, one inside the factory building and one in the tent. Maybe that explains the difference in why some cars don't have the issue and others do?