Purchased Tesla 2017 Model S 90D, Received 60D

[dannycamps]

Yeah, after reading through this, it's lawyer time - unless the dealer you purchased the car from unwinds the deal and makes you whole which means voiding the sale and either giving you back your original car or equal monetary value (i.e. what they paid you for it).

Do not let this go. The Model S you purchased has clearly had a rough life and has been abused a little. 100% fraud on the dealer's part by completely misrepresenting the car you purchased. These are the kinds of shenanigans I would expect from a sleazy local dealer who flips auction cars - not from a Mercedes-Benz dealership.

 

[ucmndd]

The dealer will have a hard time explaining why the decal is 90D in court when the software clearly shows it's 60D.

It’s about as easy to flip the 6 upside down on your 60D badge as it is to put a “///M” badge on a 328i. Just sayin.

My guess? That’s exactly what an previous owner did. Then they traded it in, somebody at an auction house or similar put it into their system as a “90D” without paying attention, and now it lives as such forever in these dealer inventory shadow systems that they all subscribe to.

As was pointed out upthread, there’s no actual model coding in the VIN.

 

[sjdaniels]

Just curious, but how much was the 60D?

I was sold a 90D… they even did the finance listing 90D at $33,041.00

I didn’t haggle, bargain or object to price in any way. Until… the curtain is as pulled back and I already owned the vehicle. They agreed to cut me a check back for $3000.00 if I accepted it as a 60D and I had been driving the car for a few days… so I accepted, but they have never provided the $3000.00

What I’m waiting for is the genius bargain of “We will use the $3000.00 to make the repairs we said we already did and are legally required to make.”

 

[Rascoe]

Personally, as others have said, I think you should unwind the deal get all your money back, which includes fair value for your trade in - not whatever they wholesaled it for. It will end costing you a whole lot more to fix the car than the paltry $3k they offered you to go away. You will always be guessing what else is wrong. Probably a good time to get a lawyer to write a letter.

 

[sjdaniels]

Agree but OP didn't mention BOS or title...
I've seen a lot of cars mis-advertized where wording didn't match pics...

According to the dealer, they owe me nothing but my money back and the cancellation of the sale. In their own words… “We made a mistake. It happens more than you may think. All we have to go by is the data we are provided within our systems. Our only legal requirement is to admit a mistake was made and refund your purchase.”

When I was told this I agreed. I foresaw nothing but problems ahead, and I was right. The problem was… they sold my mint condition Rover with 60K and warranty before they even washed it. I said, my trade was part of the sale… it’s in the paperwork because I still owed $750.00. And for some reason they rolled that in instead of using the 8K down payment or simply letting me give them cash out of my wallet to pay it off… and I asked if it was easier for me to just pay it off and they said “No”.

Well, to void that purchase… cancel the sale, they owe me something they can not provide… my trade.

So then I asked… “What the $&@/ am I suppose to do. I’m not using Uber every day”.

The GM said “We have other Teslas, we will just put you in one of those.”

I replied “All you have is three Model 3’s. Do you think I didn’t check? You sold me a Mustang and you’re asking me to settle for an Escort to make up for your mistakes. I’m not driving a golf cart with a 12” iPad glued to the dashboard.”

No offense to Model 3 enthusiasts, but that and the snow scoop front bumper, is what I see.

They then agreed to cut me a check for the KBB difference between Model S 60D vs Model S 90D. After viewing their input and stating “No! The 60D does not have a multi-disc CD player, and why would you select that on the 60D when you clearly didn’t on the 90D… this is the same vehicle, right? Same options, right? “ I was told, “Look, there’s a 5K difference and we’re not paying 5K.” I replied, “You don’t have the upper hand here, but I like the car… I will settle for $3000.00. They agreed, but it’s been over a week and no money.

Now… with the inspection fiasco, they won’t even answer my questions or return a call. They returned one email that stated “We have a problem”. I told them the inspection results and received a reply that it can’t be true. I replied to that, including the inspection report in PDF format and the mechanics GoPro footage from one of their other dealerships who also sent them the report… specifically to the GM, as I requested.

No Response! That’s why I’m leaning towards legal action, and it’s a shame.

FYI : I have also contacted Mercedes-Benz corporate in EU for the contractual obligations of the franchise license held by IRA in Massachusetts. May sound crazy, but I did have BMW revoke a license over the dealership selling my newly delivered 300D to another client who made a substantial cash offer, while informing me it was delayed in transit. When I complained to BMW corporate and they spotted the VIN as registered… everything started hitting the fan.

 

[cbdream99]

It’s about as easy to flip the 6 upside down on your 60D badge as it is to put a “///M” badge on a 328i. Just sayin.

All I am saying is exactly - someone is shady and swapped the badge ( I know how easily to swap it). In court, the dealer will be responsible; they cannot say they don't know; the original owner did that, though it may very well be the truth. They sold the vehicle, they are legally responsible for it. The buyer doesn't have to deal with who committed the original fraud.

 

[appleguru]

You should under no circumstances accept $3000.

if I were you, I would get a quote from tesla to install a 90kWh pack and demand that from the dealer to make you whole. It will likely be upwards of $20k.

Alternative resolutions I would accept:
1) them finding another equivalent model S with a 90kWh or greater pack and similar specs to offer to you at the same price
2) them unwinding the sale, including getting you back your traded in car or another car with equal specs/condition
3) A settlement no less than $10k

Sadly, it’s absolutely lawyer time… (or at least small claims court!)

A 3rd party, 057 tech is currently charging $21,299.98 for a 75D->100D upgrade (and they get to keep the 75kWh pack!)

Pop your VIN in and see if they give you a quote: Upgrade Your Tesla | 057 Technology

Also, if you haven’t yet, you really need to take a look at the battery sticker. If you actually have a software locked 75kWh pack, that’d be a fair bit better than if you actually have a 60kWh pack (which isn’t even a legitimate 2017 config). The 75kWh packs are actually quite good and retain their capacity a fair bit better than a similar vintage 90kWh pack.

 

[sjdaniels]

You should under no circumstances accept $3000.

if I were you, I would get a quote from tesla to install a 90kWh pack and demand that from the dealer to make you whole. It will likely be upwards of $20k.

Alternative resolutions I would accept:
1) them finding another equivalent model S with a 90kWh or greater pack and similar specs to offer to you at the same price
2) them unwinding the sale, including getting you back your traded in car or another car with equal specs/condition
3) A settlement no less than $10k

Sadly, it’s absolutely lawyer time… (or at least small claims court!)

A 3rd party, 057 tech is currently charging $21,299.98 for a 75D->100D upgrade (and they get to keep the 75kWh pack!)

Pop your VIN in and see if they give you a quote: Upgrade Your Tesla | 057 Technology

Also, if you haven’t yet, you really need to take a look at the battery sticker. If you actually have a software locked 75kWh pack, that’d be a fair bit better than if you actually have a 60kWh pack (which isn’t even a legitimate 2017 config). The 75kWh packs are actually quite good and retain their capacity a fair bit better than a similar vintage 90kWh pack.

I’m well aware of aftermarket solutions and was planning on it in the future. The only reason I will not go down that route yet is because the two most important parts… to me, are still under warranty. After the warranty expires, ABSOLUTELY. Did the same with my BMW 300D. When the warranty expired I had the whole thing reprogrammed. Complete honesty, the only reason I sold my 300D was because after programming it had too much torc for a rear wheel drive in a snow bound winter state.

Essentially I couldn’t even pull out of my driveway for the plow guy. I never even considered a Tesla until they had all wheel drive.

 

[cbdream99]

A 2017 MS 90D is probably worth around the 40k range, but since you already accepted the 3k offer, they must get their act together to avoid further publicity and hassles. I think a 60 can be unlocked to 75 for 2017; you may check with Tesla on how and cost now.

 

[sjdaniels]

A 2017 MS 90D is probably worth around the 40k range, but since you already accepted the 3k offer, they must get their act together to avoid further publicity and hassles. I think a 60 can be unlocked to 75 for 2017; you may check with Tesla on how and cost now.

Is that with 100K miles? Does that include an accident? Personally, I don't care. As long as the car can be made safe... pass state inspection... as it should, I would worry about specs later. That would be my problem, not the dealers, as long as repairs are made and the agreed upon difference ($3000.00) is actually paid. Even if they bought the car back, what do I do with all the equipment I had to order? Tesla Tire Kit (Emergency Repair, Because No Spare or Run Flats), Tesla Keys (Dealer only provided one FOB and no Cards, Tesla Portable Charger (Included In Original Sale, Missing From Vehicle), Parcel Shelf Assembly (Also Missing), Rear Trunk Load Floor Cargo Compartment Cover (Also Missing) and Tesla... Both Winter (All Weather) and Standard Floor Mats. Not to mention the Tesla Wall Charger installed and electrical work at my house. I don't think I'm asking too much.

 

[cbdream99]

Is that with 100K miles? Does that include an accident? Personally, I don't care. As long as the car can be made safe... pass state inspection... as it should, I would worry about specs later. That would be my problem, not the dealers, as long as repairs are made and the agreed upon difference ($3000.00) is actually paid. Even if they bought the car back, what do I do with all the equipment I had to order? Tesla Tire Kit (Emergency Repair, Because No Spare or Run Flats), Tesla Keys (Dealer only provided one FOB and no Cards, Tesla Portable Charger (Included In Original Sale, Missing From Vehicle), Parcel Shelf Assembly (Also Missing), Rear Trunk Load Floor Cargo Compartment Cover (Also Missing) and Tesla... Both Winter (All Weather) and Standard Floor Mats. Not to mention the Tesla Wall Charger installed and electrical work at my house. I don't think I'm asking too much.

Of course, the average price does not count into any accidents, mileage, and wear condition ... only you can judge whether the 3k is a fair deal, the market price is just for reference. But for any extra money you already spent, that's an unfortunate complication to your decision.

 

[sjdaniels]

To answer several arguments over charge rates and blah, blah, blah... @ 100% I get 210-230 miles. @ 90% I get 175 miles. My assumption was battery degradation on a 6 year old vehicle, not that it wasn't the right battery. I will say I was incredibly impressed with the accuracy. I can achieve approximately 238 miles actual, but I think this is because I use single pedal drive mode. The "EV Savings" crap means nothing to me because I am a contractor. I get .55 per mile. So gas or electric it's still lower than my deductions. Also I get 5% cash back on Superchargers with Bank of America and I qualify for the $7500 tax credit on a used EV.

 

[sjdaniels]

But for any extra money you already spent, that's an unfortunate complication to your decision.

Unfortunately for me, I agree.

 

[cbdream99]

To answer several arguments over charge rates and blah, blah, blah... @ 100% I get 210-230 miles. @ 90% I get 175 miles.

You probably set it to the ideal range displayed which won't be anywhere close to real-world range, check the display/unit in the MCU

 

[sjdaniels]

You probably set it to the ideal range displayed (check the display/unit in the MCU).

Nope. Ideal looks awesome, but not accurate. It says 340.
FYI : I have an Everlance Subscription for IRS documentation. 24/7 tracking. So I'm not estimating or relying on the Tesla applications.

 

[sjdaniels]

As someone else requested this privately, I will include the images for anyone curious.

 

[Doanster1]

238 real world miles on a 60? Then perhaps you really do have a 90?!?! What does the sticker on the battery say?

 

[sjdaniels]

238 real world miles on a 60? Then perhaps you really do have a 90?!?! What does the sticker on the battery say?

If you give me details on where to find that I can go take a pic.

 

[Doanster1]

If you give me details on where to find that I can go take a pic.

Right behind the right front passenger wheel. The sticker is visible without jacking up the car.
A 60D had an EPA 218mi rating hence 238 real world points to a bigger battery for you.

 

[cbdream99]

If you give me details on where to find that I can go take a pic.

Go to the front corner of the car on the passenger side, lay on the floor, and look for the label on the frame/cover behind the wheel well, looks like you may actually have a 90D but the software is not updated. It may not have been done by Tesla.