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Purchased Tesla 2017 Model S 90D, Received 60D

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2017 60D is rated at 218 miles fully charged, based on the OP on the fully charged range, it looks like the car already been unlocked to 75, otherwise the degradation doesn't add up.
It adds up perfectly based on the one piece of actual evidence OP has provided, which is a picture of the car showing 175 miles at 90%. The projected range numbers on the energy screen are useless.

If the car was unlocked, it would show on the screen as a 75D, without question.
 
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This story is getting stranger and stranger.
My money is on a failed 60 pack that got replaced with the 75 pack and the previous owner got a case of badginitis and bought new badges to add value to the car when selling.
However, the car should’ve been under the factory battery warranty so Tesla should’ve done the swap and updated the firmware accordingly to represent the new facts. Perhaps ask that specific question to Tesla? They won’t respond if you ask for full service history, but may answer the specific battery replacement question.
That’s what I said to the GM when he relayed the “Error on battery so Tesla downgraded it for safety compliance” BS. I opened my Tesla app and said “It’s under warranty. Why wouldn’t they just replace it?” He laughed and said “Yah, it’s under warranty.” While chuckling and I showed him. He disappeared for about an hour.

I plan on a more detailed conversation with Tesla, but my Tesla appointment isn’t until 9/29. That was the first available appointment when I created it on 9/6.

I created it because the software update kept crashing during download. Even on my WiFi with a fiber gigabit connection. It has since updated… but I kept the appointment.
 
Every once in a while, Shift has one that pops up that qualifies. Right now they have a Bolt and a Kona (didn’t realize Konas qualified) in my area:

View attachment 972326View attachment 972327
That’s odd. The Hyundai Kona is listed as twenty-three variants, is classed as a Small SUV and is built in Korea.

They have since announced a new facility in 8/23/23 - Czech Republic.

As for the Bolt. Not sure. But I do believe most manufacturing is done by LG in Korea. “Assembled in U.S.A.” I could be wrong, it’s just an odd one to qualify.
 
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That’s odd. The Hyundai Kona is listed as twenty-three variants, is classed as a Small SUV and is built in Korea.

They have since announced a new facility in 8/23/23 - Czech Republic.

As for the Bolt. Not sure. But I do believe most manufacturing is done by LG in Korea. “Assembled in U.S.A.” I could be wrong, it’s just an odd one to qualify.
There is no US-manufactured requirement for the used EV tax credit. Pretty much every PHEV/BEV sold used for under $25k qualifies.

 
Here’s an UPDATE. The Rover that’s “Sold”, according to the dealer, just sent me a statement that my next bill will be automatically drawn on 9/21 - Shouldn’t this have been paid already?

You should turn off any automatic billing you have for that vehicle (you should have done that before you sold it, actually). Of all the things that have been reported in this thread, this one is the least worrying since its not at all unusual for these type of payoffs etc to take a bit to cycle through.

Its also not unusual for a company to take a car in and take a bit to pay it off, and then pay off "whatever the payoff is" when they request it, vs what it was when the deal was negotiated, leading to headaches for people chasing down money.

TL ; DR, turn off any auto payments on that car the minute you read this message, if you havent already.

As for the rest of the thread, the situation seems "strange". OP you have made decisions I certainly would not have (like accepting the dealers 3k offer for the car downgrade).

Good luck with it working out however you want.
 
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There is no US-manufactured requirement for the used EV tax credit. Pretty much every PHEV/BEV sold used for under $25k qualifies.

That’s awesome!
You should turn off any automatic billing you have for that vehicle (you should have done that before you sold it, actually). Of all the things that have been reported in this thread, this one is the least worrying since its not at all unusual for these type of payoffs etc to take a bit to cycle through.

Its also not unusual for a company to take a car in and take a bit to pay it off, and then pay off "whatever the payoff is" when they request it, vs what it was when the deal was negotiated, leading to headaches for people chasing down money.

TL ; DR, turn off any auto payments on that car the minute you read this message, if you havent already.

As for the rest of the thread, the situation seems "strange". OP you have made decisions I certainly would not have (like accepting the dealers 3k offer for the car downgrade).

Good luck with it working out however you want.
I get what you're saying. I agree 100%. The problem is... their credit won't be effected by a non-payment, mine would. Even though legally I have the standing ground... it's another fight.
 
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Unless you own or represent a dealership, the used car tax credit can't be claimed on a private party sale...
We used KeySavvy to facilitate the sale - basically an escrow service that is also a licensed dealer. Worked great, would highly recommend.

 
That’s awesome!

I get what you're saying. I agree 100%. The problem is... their credit won't be effected by a non-payment, mine would. Even though legally I have the standing ground... it's another fight.

I mean, I get that. I would feel the same way (most people who have good credit scores are aware of, and focused on, making sure they dont get dinged for missed payments etc).

Still, getting that notice has nothing to do with whether the car was actually sold or not, which is what it seemed you were implying. I am just telling you its common for payments / payoffs etc to take a bit, or even show on the financial institution that holds the original financing, and I also have seen automatic payments taken in this exact circumstances, and a fight to get it back.

Im not a tesla or auto industry insider or anything, I just have been on a few different car forums over the years and seen this type of thing (regarding the payoff).
 
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If the dealership has offered to refund you, you should take that and walk away. The dealership definitely screwed up and they clearly don’t know a damn thing about teslas etc. get your money back. Buy a car from somewhere else and move on.

If they did sell your Range Rover to another person or dealer they can’t get that car back. The next person owns the car legally even if your loan is not paid off yet. That is relatively normal and you’ll get a refund check in the mail from your lender for that extra auto payment once the loan is paid off.
 
This story is getting stranger and stranger.
My money is on a failed 60 pack that got replaced with the 75 pack and the previous owner got a case of badginitis and bought new badges to add value to the car when selling.
However, the car should’ve been under the factory battery warranty so Tesla should’ve done the swap and updated the firmware accordingly to represent the new facts. Perhaps ask that specific question to Tesla? They won’t respond if you ask for full service history, but may answer the specific battery replacement question.
It was a 60D from the factory.
 
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The battery capacity is not tied to the Vin.
Correct. But the vehicle value "is" and the VIN shows 90D in every situation, but Tesla. Examples, Good Car, KBB, Been Verified, Dealer Only Software, Car Fax, State and Federal Agencies (MA Title, NH Title) so Progressive requires insurance coverage on "90D". The price difference is only $71 per year on insurance, but if I'm paying for 90D insurance and 90D registration costs with the state... my payout better be based on 90D values.

Am I wrong?
 
This is the reason i never buy from a dealer, moreover trade anything in ...
Not sure why its so attractive to ppl but private sale gets us much more money than trade in for a little extra work.

A 2017 MS 90D is probably worth around the 40k range,
Unless ur very lucky i'll doubt u ever get that in current market...

what do I do with all the equipment I had to order? Tesla Tire Kit (Emergency Repair, Because No Spare or Run Flats), Tesla Keys (Dealer only provided one FOB and no Cards, Tesla Portable Charger (Included In Original Sale, Missing From Vehicle), Parcel Shelf Assembly (Also Missing), Rear Trunk Load Floor Cargo Compartment Cover (Also Missing) and Tesla... Both Winter (All Weather) and Standard Floor Mats. Not to mention the Tesla Wall Charger installed and electrical work at my house. I don't think I'm asking too much.
yes u are... thats on u, don't rush into getting accessories...
even Teslas used inventory doesn't have charger n some other originally included things... downside of getting used car...

Correct. But the vehicle value "is" and the VIN shows 90D in every situation, but Tesla. Examples, Good Car, KBB, Been Verified, Dealer Only Software, Car Fax, State and Federal Agencies (MA Title, NH Title) so Progressive requires insurance coverage on "90D". The price difference is only $71 per year on insurance, but if I'm paying for 90D insurance and 90D registration costs with the state... my payout better be based on 90D values.

Am I wrong?
unfortunately everyone just lists what the car came with from factory but Tesla decided not to even include battery capacity into VIN since it can be swapped later in life (makes sense to me but def a headache for ppl that don't understand)
only way for buying used is to verify capacity via CAN (scan my tesla etc...), even rated range at 100% could be misleading if degradation is huge but still useful. Can't really trust a pack label either since remans can have wrong labels or again fraud...
 
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Best course of action at this point is to get a full refund from the dealer. Not getting your old vehicle back is inconvenient, but you already wanted Tesla. Get a refund, keep your accessories, and find another Model S. Rent a car for a few weeks while you look if you can't borrow one.
Easier said than done. I've been shopping for 6 months and even units I convinced myself to settle for sold in 24-48 hours. This was the only unit in FULL black interior. If I wanted beige pillars or ceilings with black leather seats I would buy a Dodge. No working sunroof is essentially a panoramic sweat tank. I need the winter package because I often use heated steering wheels more than climate controls. I don't like the "Peanut Butter" interior or any Wood or Carbon Fiber. I'm extremely picky... yes. But I learned a long time ago, if I'm paying for it... make sure it's what you want.

Don't get me wrong, what you say makes perfect sense. I'm just not a guy that lives on sensible.
 
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