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Percentage is 79.
I don’t know exactly. I think we can say NFP is more a projection/estimate of what you would have at 100%, while the nominal remaining is what the BMS actually guessed/measured in a particular charging event. NFP adjusts over time in response to various charging events, it seems.Inspite of charging to 79.5 my NFP still is listed at 79.1.
How is this number calculated or measured?
From my information from research posted a few days back, we know that high SOC and high temps will cause the calendar aging to continue, and to level out much later.Yeah about 75kWh. So perhaps 7% capacity loss depending on where you started.
If this happened suddenly there is a chance it is just a glitch and it may recover somewhat. We’ve seen that.
Hard to know how you will fare long term, but capacity loss will slow. I’d guess 10-15% (total) in another 2 years. And then fairly flat from there for a while. As I said, expectations depend on where you actually started.
I could add, that by now members that did read my recebt posts know that time is/can be much worse then miles.
For @clerks this means that you could compare your ar with others, with the same age more or less regardless of the miles.
Miles/cycles have some impact but less than time, specially at high SOC.
Theres cars on the average line with the same age having the same range as @clerks.
that time is/can be much worse then miles.
Yes, thats right: no you can not.Maybe I'm missing something, but it's unfortunate that you can't plot range by vehicle age in TeslaFi, instead of vs. mileage. I guess it's harder for TeslaFi to determine the build date and have that data be "clean."
Yes, thats right: no you can not.
Both the age issue, but mostly I’d say that people do not really know about calendar aging. If most people think miles is the only important factor thats what they want to see, and thats what the teslafi will show. Theres a high probability that the teslafi guys also do not know that much about calendar aging.
I guess that in the most cases the batteries behave like in the research reports. = We can predict how the battery will degrade from ”onest” data.
In the opposite way, but from same data, as calendar aging is the dominant degradation in the early battery life, we also could have the table sorted as per your idea with age instead of miles. If the average resting SOC was marked with colors we would have different lines for different average SOC as per the calendar aging grapghs in my earlier posts. There would be minor variances caused by the different ODO-readings.
If the average resting SOC was marked with colors we would have different lines for different average SOC as per the calendar aging grapghs in my earlier posts. There would be minor variances caused by the different ODO-readings.
I'm not seeing a lot of cars with 10k km with my range. I do see some. My assumption is most of them with that low mileage are probably newer than mine. My commute is about 30 miles round trip. I guess I'll start charging to 75 just before departure which will keep me between 60 and 75. Does that sound like a reasonable compromise? Or should I be aiming lower?I could add, that by now members that did read my recebt posts know that time is/can be much worse then miles.
For @clerks this means that you could compare your ar with others, with the same age more or less regardless of the miles.
Miles/cycles have some impact but less than time, specially at high SOC.
Theres cars on the average line with the same age having the same range as @clerks.
Its a numbers game. More cells mean a dead cell counts less towards degradation. Wait till the 4680s have a dead cell. It will have a massive drop in range. Hence 18650 is better, but more expensive.My S has half the degradation and double the miles of my 3. I like the Panasonic 18650's better than the 2170's. 2170 was all the rage, but no numbers to back it up. Now it is starting to show.
The button just dragged everyone back in like a hook with a worm on it that a bass couldn't resist.
If you hit 69%, they give you a pack 75% just so they dont have to swap it out in a few days. You dont get another 100% pack.This has been bothering me. If the threshold for warranty is 70 percent, what's the point of tesla giving me a new pack at 70 percent? How does that help someone and how much money could tesla actually save versus a new pack? Strikes me as really unfair.
What's the point of giving me a 75 pack if I hit 69? So stupid. Don't bother.If you hit 69%, they give you a pack 75% just so they dont have to swap it out in a few days. You dont get another 100% pack.
If you hit 69%, they give you a pack 75% just so they dont have to swap it out in a few days. You dont get another 100% pack.
So that you get above 70% at the time the warranty ends. That's all Tesla is guaranteeing, nothing beyond that.What's the point of giving me a 75 pack if I hit 69? So stupid. Don't bother.
I suspect it won't be quite that bad. They need to factor in the cost of labor and the math/worry that the refurbished part fails. Refurbished parts should carry there own warranty as well....So that you get above 70% at the time the warranty ends. That's all Tesla is guaranteeing, nothing beyond that.
This is the replacement pack warranty:I suspect it won't be quite that bad. They need to factor in the cost of labor and the math/worry that the refurbished part fails. Refurbished parts should carry there own warranty as well....
Then there's also this:
- Vehicle High Voltage Battery*: 4 years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first
Vehicle WarrantyAny Parts or Used Parts repaired or replaced under this Tesla Parts, Body & Paint Repair Limited Warranty continue to be covered by the applicable original warranty period of the repaired or replaced Part or Used Part (mentioned above in "Coverage Period") or for a period of 90 days, whichever is longer.
No. If your battery is replaced under warranty you get the remaining time on the warranty the battery was replaced under. If your warranty expires the day after the replacement, then your warranty is gone 1 day later. (Some manufacturers offer a minimum 30 or 90 day warranty on end-of-warranty repairs, Tesla doesn't.)This is the replacement pack warranty:
Then there's also this:
Vehicle Warranty
Basically the max you get is that 4 years / 50k miles or if your remaining original warranty is longer, the remaining balance. I should note also the warranty on the replacement pack does not appear to warrant for retention, so presumably the time period is still the same as your original (so you don't get an "extension" for retention, only for complete failure).
So perhaps it might not be a 75% pack, but it definitely won't be a brand new pack, as they don't need to give a brand new pack to ensure it remains above 70%, unless you are talking about a car that was essentially brand new when it fell below 70%.
You may be right, that part does say "purchase". They have a separate section for parts replaced under the original car warranty:No. If your battery is replaced under warranty you get the remaining time on the warranty the battery was replaced under. If your warranty expires the day after the replacement, then your warranty is gone 1 day later. (Some manufacturers offer a minimum 30 or 90 day warranty on end-of-warranty repairs, Tesla doesn't.)
If you buy a replacement HV pack you get a 4 year/50k mile warranty on it.
They actually clarify what is the expected condition of the replacement pack under warranty:Parts repaired or replaced, including replacement of the vehicle, under this New Vehicle Limited Warranty are covered only until the applicable warranty period of this New Vehicle Limited Warranty ends, or as otherwise provided by applicable law.
https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/downloads/tesla-new-vehicle-limited-warranty-en-us.pdfIf your Battery or Drive Unit requires warranty repair, Tesla will repair the unit, or replace it with a new, reconditioned or re-manufactured part at the sole discretion of Tesla. The warranty replacement may not restore the vehicle to a "like new" condition, but when replacing a Battery, Tesla will ensure that the energy capacity of the replacement Battery is at least equal to that of the original Battery before the failure occurred while taking into consideration other factors, including the age and mileage of the vehicle.