Rattle noise coming from front Air Suspension (2017-18)

[bwherry]

I fixed that noise as well. So, it was a "compound noise" if you will. Two factors. But the bushing itself was fine - essentially, the place that did my alignment just left it a little too loose.

Compound noise, sonofa... Thanks, @Aggmeister2010 . So how'd you fix that? Just tightened the inner control arm mounting bolt a bit until the play went away?

I did have an alignment done after my UP lowering brackets were installed and now I'm trying to remember if I had this knocking sound before that... Another possibility for the SC to check when the car is there on the 19th!

Brian

 

[Aggmeister2010]

Compound noise, sonofa... Thanks, @Aggmeister2010 . So how'd you fix that? Just tightened the inner control arm mounting bolt a bit until the play went away?

I did have an alignment done after my UP lowering brackets were installed and now I'm trying to remember if I had this knocking sound before that... Another possibility for the SC to check when the car is there on the 19th!

Brian

Basically, yes. Just tighten till it doesn't rattle. But the key is to also mark the position of the eccentric nut with a sharpie so you don't have to get another alignment.

 

[bwherry]

Basically, yes. Just tighten till it doesn't rattle. But the key is to also mark the position of the eccentric nut with a sharpie so you don't have to get another alignment.

Ahaa! That's a Top Gear top tip right there. Thanks, @Aggmeister2010 !

 

[BostonBurley]

I fixed that noise as well. So, it was a "compound noise" if you will. Two factors. But the bushing itself was fine - essentially, the place that did my alignment just left it a little too loose.



Nice sleuthing! That definitely sounds like the culprit. If you're under warranty, that's definitely the video you'll need to show them to get it covered. Maybe you'll even get a whole new steering rack out of it

9.5 years old and 218,000 miles so no warranty!

 

[BostonBurley]

https://imgur.com/a/Lb0qT6V

 

[Paulieshouse]

Just brought my 2016 MX in for this rattling in the front right. Plano TX SC

I was told that 2 techs found and heard nothing. I asked they keep looking. The following day they say I need to replace the Air spring module with part #FR(1027361-25-E) for $999.00 plus a $275 alignment.

After reading all these posts it doesn’t seem like it’s worth it, if the noise just returns, and/or this isn’t actually an issue.

Also the alignment fee is Ridiculous!

 

[aesculus]

After reading all these posts it doesn’t seem like it’s worth it, if the noise just returns, and/or this isn’t actually an issue.

I have had three sets of these and the third was a charm. So far, so good for 3+ years. They are all the same part number so I suspect bad manufacturing on the first two.

Also have them check the steering link ball joints. My covers had cut in it and that also allowed it to degrade and rattle.

 

[Mhoepfin]

Just brought my 2016 MX in for this rattling in the front right. Plano TX SC

I was told that 2 techs found and heard nothing. I asked they keep looking. The following day they say I need to replace the Air spring module with part #FR(1027361-25-E) for $999.00 plus a $275 alignment.

After reading all these posts it doesn’t seem like it’s worth it, if the noise just returns, and/or this isn’t actually an issue.

Also the alignment fee is Ridiculous!

It’s the bellow in the metal part of the air spring rattling against the metal. More of less the noise always comes back on this type of spring over small bumpy patches.

 

[Aggmeister2010]

It’s the bellow in the metal part of the air spring rattling against the metal. More of less the noise always comes back on this type of spring over small bumpy patches.

Can you be a bit more descriptive? I recently had my air springs apart (installing the Unplugged Shocks) and I couldnt spot any areas where there could be rattling in the air springs. At least, for the newer version.

 

[BostonBurley]

Just brought my 2016 MX in for this rattling in the front right. Plano TX SC

I was told that 2 techs found and heard nothing. I asked they keep looking. The following day they say I need to replace the Air spring module with part #FR(1027361-25-E) for $999.00 plus a $275 alignment.

After reading all these posts it doesn’t seem like it’s worth it, if the noise just returns, and/or this isn’t actually an issue.

Also the alignment fee is Ridiculous!

All of their fees are ridiculous. It’s best to figure out a repeatable way to create the sound and then show the tech. Otherwise… I mean, they don’t really care. For real. You’ve got to fight for your right to not drive a rattle can Tesla.

 

[Ostrichsak]

FWIW, I took a Model S in to Tesla a while back with a rattle from the front driver's side that was impact/bump related. I was sure that it was the lesser and more common causes of this symptom and told them as much when I dropped it off. Fortunately the tech did his job and ignored me. lol He put the car on the rack and was able to replicate the noise in the air and trace it back to the air strut. The bill was $1,300 which sucked but it would have sucked even more had the just took my word for it and replaced a nearly $500 (parts and labor) item that would have resulted in me then having to eat another $1,300 for the proper fix when my suspected solution didn't remedy the symptom. I would have been a sad panda had it played out that way.

Summary: Take it in and let them diagnose what the problem/fix is. If they do that and it doesn't fix it at least you may have some recourse since they were the ones who told you it would fix it. In my scenario, Had they followed the "customer is always right" adage I would be out nearly $2k instead of $1300ish.

 

[BostonBurley]

FWIW, I took a Model S in to Tesla a while back with a rattle from the front driver's side that was impact/bump related. I was sure that it was the lesser and more common causes of this symptom and told them as much when I dropped it off. Fortunately the tech did his job and ignored me. lol He put the car on the rack and was able to replicate the noise in the air and trace it back to the air strut. The bill was $1,300 which sucked but it would have sucked even more had the just took my word for it and replaced a nearly $500 (parts and labor) item that would have resulted in me then having to eat another $1,300 for the proper fix when my suspected solution didn't remedy the symptom. I would have been a sad panda had it played out that way.

Summary: Take it in and let them diagnose what the problem/fix is. If they do that and it doesn't fix it at least you may have some recourse since they were the ones who told you it would fix it. In my scenario, Had they followed the "customer is always right" adage I would be out nearly $2k instead of $1300ish.

Not to pick, but I’ve learned to keep opinions to myself at service concerning what it may be. It’s gotten me into trouble the way you suggested it might have. It also relies on a guess and it’s basically a bet at that point, costing money and all.

 

[Ostrichsak]

Not to pick, but I’ve learned to keep opinions to myself at service concerning what it may be. It’s gotten me into trouble the way you suggested it might have. It also relies on a guess and it’s basically a bet at that point, costing money and all.

Traditionally, I've become quite good at diagnosing various sounds on automobiles given how many years I spent working on cheap ones that required lots of diagnosing/repairs. lol In this case, all of my experience was bettered instantly by a tech with a lift. He may have just started that day for all I know but he saved me several hundred dollars and for that I am thankful.

 

[Mhoepfin]

Can you be a bit more descriptive? I recently had my air springs apart (installing the Unplugged Shocks) and I couldnt spot any areas where there could be rattling in the air springs. At least, for the newer version.

There is a bellows inside the metal part of the spring that inflates. Over slightly rough roads this bellow hits the metal and causes the rattle.

 

[BostonBurley]

Traditionally, I've become quite good at diagnosing various sounds on automobiles given how many years I spent working on cheap ones that required lots of diagnosing/repairs. lol In this case, all of my experience was bettered instantly by a tech with a lift. He may have just started that day for all I know but he saved me several hundred dollars and for that I am thankful.

Wow, a similar past for me, and I even did a semester of ASE certification 20 years ago before realizing that life wasn’t for me. I typically save a lot by doing my own diagnosis and work, but I never count my time. There’s something gratifying about fixing it yourself, and something haunting about not being able to fix it, whatever it is.

 

[jacie6056]

The same issue for the 2018 100D. The car is out of warranty not sure if I will pay for the 1067361-77-C, and knowing that it will come back later will be worth the cost. Does anyone who recently paid for the repair know the cost of this?

 

[Happy Kappy]

I replaced them with used ones off ebay myself. Service manual is free and its only a few bolts each side.

 

[mangoesbananas]

I fixed this front end suspension rattle issue with two red shop rags. Two years ago, I had a conversation with a Tesla technician who told me about Tesla Service Bulletin SB-18-31-009 that describes a way to get rid of the suspension noise. Although the bulletin is for 2017-2018 cars, the fix worked perfectly on my 2019 Raven. Even though the "fix" is described in the bulletin as just a way to test the suspension, I have left the fix in place for the past two years and have enjoyed a completely silent driving experience. In other words, the two red shop rags are still in place between the strut braces and the towers, and the shock tower brace bolts are still not reconnected. Every Tesla technician who has seen the car since says it's perfectly safe to drive the car the way it is.

I thought I heard that Tesla finally made some rubber grommets to install between the strut braces and towers as a permanent fix for the rattle, but I'm not totally sure. In the meantime, my shop rag fix has transformed my rattly Model T back into a silent Model S!

 

[Gtech]

I fixed this front end suspension rattle issue with two red shop rags. Two years ago, I had a conversation with a Tesla technician who told me about Tesla Service Bulletin SB-18-31-009 that describes a way to get rid of the suspension noise. Although the bulletin is for 2017-2018 cars, the fix worked perfectly on my 2019 Raven. Even though the "fix" is described in the bulletin as just a way to test the suspension, I have left the fix in place for the past two years and have enjoyed a completely silent driving experience. In other words, the two red shop rags are still in place between the strut braces and the towers, and the shock tower brace bolts are still not reconnected. Every Tesla technician who has seen the car since says it's perfectly safe to drive the car the way it is.

I thought I heard that Tesla finally made some rubber grommets to install between the strut braces and towers as a permanent fix for the rattle, but I'm not totally sure. In the meantime, my shop rag fix has transformed my rattly Model T back into a silent Model S!

Glad to hear your struts are o.k

I have a 2017 (TAS) front strut laying around here and when you shake it it rattles like a cowbell so apparently there are more things that can cause the rattle.

 

[mangoesbananas]

Glad to hear your struts are o.k

I have a 2017 (TAS) front strut laying around here and when you shake it it rattles like a cowbell so apparently there are more things that can cause the rattle.

The reason the strut rattle is heard in the passenger compartment is because of how the sound travels through the frame of the car. The fix that I detailed above stops that noise from traveling. It doesn’t change what goes on within the struts. It simply makes it so the noise is not heard within the car.