Even engineers and scientists make unit conversion mistakes more often than you'd think.
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Even engineers and scientists make unit conversion mistakes more often than you'd think.
grichard
Member De-Luxe
I don't think that I really understand the long-term strategy here. Clearly making this car functional will require a number of replacement parts that Tesla won't sell to anybody. How can this work?
Is the idea to find a parts car that was totaled due to structural/cosmetic damage and use its circuitry? If so, it seems like using *this* car's body to repair *that* car's damage might be easier and more reliable than trying to replace all these electronics.
Still, it makes for a really interesting thread. Good luck!
Is the idea to find a parts car that was totaled due to structural/cosmetic damage and use its circuitry? If so, it seems like using *this* car's body to repair *that* car's damage might be easier and more reliable than trying to replace all these electronics.
Still, it makes for a really interesting thread. Good luck!
That's an EMI filter.
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Once the DU is out of the cradle it can probably be lifted by a couple of strong guys. Definitely too heavy for one person. Lots of iron in there! If you have access to an engine hoist or similar, that's best.
The DU is conformal coated, but there are connectors and bare areas that will suffer the longer it sits. Also, draining the glycol coolant from the bottom is easiest. If you try to pull the charger without doing this, you'll make a mess in the car. The glycol is very sticky and doesn't dry out, not that your car is pristine inside, but trust me, you don't want that coolant all over everything!
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif]1) Learning..... I've thought about that... but using this car's body to repair that cars damage doesn't really teach me as much as tearing down the whole car (discovering the inner workings, electronic systems, showing the community, etc.). I'm not a body man and do not have the tools or resources to repair frame rails or paint in my home garage. If that were the case I would buy two cars drop them both off at the body shop and wait. [/FONT]
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[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif]2) Money...... I have spare time (from the hours of 8-10:30pm at night) but paying body shop time to paint a vehicle, cutting/welding a frame rail, or cut a rear 1/4 panel and swap it onto another vehicle would eat up funding for this very quickly, so the more sweat equity I can put in without needing anyone else, the better.[/FONT]
Engineer: I'll never fault anyone for Effective Uses Of A Forklift, but I'm wondering:
didn't Tesla demonstrate that their Quick-Change of the battery pack involved nothing more than a zip-zip-zip of just four bolts, then drop-and-swap? Oh, and quick-coupler releases of the coolant fluid lines.
didn't Tesla demonstrate that their Quick-Change of the battery pack involved nothing more than a zip-zip-zip of just four bolts, then drop-and-swap? Oh, and quick-coupler releases of the coolant fluid lines.
26 bolts, not including the 8 fasteners on the shear plates and the battery battery shields. I didn't advise Btr to drop his pack, but rather the drive unit. His pack may well be fine and need not be unsealed, but the drive unit is most likely full of saltwater. The pack does have quick-release for all connections, but the DU does not.
Toward the beginning of this thread, OP said his Tesla friend told him that before the car died in the drink, it threw 47 codes, several of which indicate water in the pack. It's shot, and can't be opened without irreversible damage.
The damage will be close to the water-line in the inverter, as oxygen is needed for the corrosion.
And yobigd20, we've all told him. That's what makes this so interesting. There are several guys who've bought salvage cars for uneconomic money and are now silently suffering. I watched one go today with a bent frame for ridiculous money. I bothered to go there and check it out, but Dude who bought it, didn't. He is in for an awful surprise.
The damage will be close to the water-line in the inverter, as oxygen is needed for the corrosion.
And yobigd20, we've all told him. That's what makes this so interesting. There are several guys who've bought salvage cars for uneconomic money and are now silently suffering. I watched one go today with a bent frame for ridiculous money. I bothered to go there and check it out, but Dude who bought it, didn't. He is in for an awful surprise.
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Packs can be opened and resealed without irreversible damage. I have done it.
Tesla did attempt to make the pack hermetic, it's pretty well designed. Each brick section (15 in total) has a series of round fire vents which consist of elastomeric check valves on the bottom of the housing that are designed to let pressure out but not in. There is a small equalization poppet valve on the top of the front "hump" that is designed to allow the pressure to equalize should the delta get too great. The sections are roughly sealed to isolate fire in any section from the adjacent sections, but the sections are not hermetic between themselves, so water entering any section would spread. I have worked on cars with flooded packs that took on no water and remained dry, but if the car was deep enough and under water long enough, it could be wet inside.
Since I have not seen the actual diagnostic alerts yet, I can't say whether any of them prove there is water in the pack yet. There could be false codes due to other issues, so it's not a forgone conclusion in my mind that there is water in the pack.
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Here's a pack I was able to successfully repair and reseal undergoing repairs:
Here's the same pack fully tested, resealed and ready for reinstallation:
Yeah, it seemed like the pack cover was squashed and crinkled when wk took it apart. Isn't there a large amount of adhesive that needs to be dealt with?
jpet
Jan P.
Do you have an idea what parts need to be opened to install the Inconel contactors and electronic fuse for a Ludicrous upgrade? Do you think the seals on the 14 main module compartments need to be "broken" for that?
GlmnAlyAirCar
Active Member
Yeah, but it's the haste to post the pictures and throw up the alarms before verifying that got me concerned.
He was harvesting electrons.
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The fun part of this thread will be watching me suffer after the countless "we told him this won't work" comments. I think the best suffering is definitely public suffering on a forum. I will take you along for the ride if you can stomach it.
I don't want to seem rude but your somewhat...uhm, "cavalier" attitude to repair of this car makes me wonder how much you paid for this? I hope it wasn't too much.
I saw a completely wrecked S (full side on damage) go for over $10k recently at auction, I guess that was parts only as repair would surely cost too much with both doors and two quarter panels damaged.
I saw a completely wrecked S (full side on damage) go for over $10k recently at auction, I guess that was parts only as repair would surely cost too much with both doors and two quarter panels damaged.
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