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Repairing a Flooded Tesla Model S : HOW-TO

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If you actually get that car functional and able to be driven before I get to my project I thought of using the spare seats I have for (probably late summer), I'll give you a sweet deal on them..... like a just come pick them up type of deal. They're black though, not tan.
 
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still frustrated as to how much of a pain this battery was to remove, not even a damn handle! The manual calls for me to use duct tape to remove it.


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tested the voltage and its hovering at 4.8V


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Man that is one complex connection block on the top of that battery....
I wonder why they chose to junction right there on top of the battery and not put that block somewhere on a wall mounting area?
I would think that making the battery connection simpler would benefit ease of maintenance.
I feel that flexing that connection block on top of the battery will lead to electrical faults in the long run?

Are the new Model S built the same way or has Tesla simplified that? I am aware that the battery moved on the dual engine model, to an easier to access area.

Your battery is dated July 2014. One wonders if the battery was original from build date or a replacement from that date?
 
Ive been watching model S auctions like a hawk and you got yourself the deal of the century. You live in LA and there is a high concentration of MS there. Salvaged and not repaired MSs hover around 14k at auction. 20k is a deal and not likely to come around anytime again soon. I know you had to have sold it for a profit. If this doesnt work out Ive learned an expensive lesson and hopefully the community can learn for free!

Oh I know. Right place, right time. That will never happen again and yes, I made a nice profit which I rolled into the Model S I eventually bought. You've got the right attitude. My salvage car, even completely running, had a few issues and I found that taking on the challenge of finding and fixing them was a lot of fun because I got to learn more about how the car works and differs from standard cars.

I know someone (me) that has the service manuals. If you have any questions shoot me a PM and I'll see if I can dig up info for you.
 
Man that is one complex connection block on the top of that battery....
I wonder why they chose to junction right there on top of the battery and not put that block somewhere on a wall mounting area?
I would think that making the battery connection simpler would benefit ease of maintenance.
I feel that flexing that connection block on top of the battery will lead to electrical faults in the long run?

Are the new Model S built the same way or has Tesla simplified that? I am aware that the battery moved on the dual engine model, to an easier to access area.

Your battery is dated July 2014. One wonders if the battery was original from build date or a replacement from that date?


Ha, the car was made December of 2012, so this battery was definitely replaced. I'm curious to see if the drive unit was replaced as well.... probably was.

I cant comment on the new model S battery placement, however I DO know that the DC/DC converter was revised and moved on the generation 2 MS

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I don't want to be a downer but this car is scrap metal.


you are going to have to do better than that to get me down bud
 
lots of dust up top near the fuses... (interesting placement of fuses btw, there is plenty of space inside the car behind the firewall for these, but perhaps they put them there for ease of access?) anyway looks like the water line is definitely below the air filter and top fuse boxes.


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Yes, that Dephi pad is the occupancy sensor. It's just a switch that presents 2 different resistances to the Body ECU depending on whether someone is in the seat or not.

The "bladder" thing on the passenger seat is indeed the OCS. It's a scale that weighs the passenger. While the driver is always assumed to be an adult, the passenger could well be a child, so the SRS system adjusts the airbag force depending on body mass.

The heater pads are glued in just under the skin. They are easy to located, just follow the wires from the rectangular block mounted under the front of the seat. There is a pad in the bottom and one in the back.

Yes, the battery on Gen 1 cars is hard to access. There are a few tricks that make it easier, and once you've done it a few times it's not so bad. Clearly Tesla engineers thought the battery would last a really long time and didn't consider that it would need replacement as often as it does. This is mainly due to the power consumption of the MCU (including cellular modem) and the keyless entry system.

Surprisingly those C&D AGM batteries are extremely high-quality and can often be revived after sitting at zero volts for months. They will of course suffer some damage and have a lot less capacity, but I bet you can revive it with a good slow charge.

Once you get the seats out, pull out all that carpet and padding. That's 90% of the smell and moisture! It's a big sponge.
 
How To Salvage a Saltwater-immersed Vehicle
We prepped a car for full immersion in Long Beach harbour. My employee decided he wanted to buy the car after the shoot. He removed all of the electronic modules, sealed up the engine trans and other items 100%. We immersed the car several time in the water and when the shoot was over the employee rushed the car back to the shop and pressure washed the car for hours. He hooked everything back up and the car was fully functional. Bought it for a song from production and drove it for about 6 mo. Things started going wrong rather quickly. The main cause of damage was the salt water had wicked into every wire of the car. The wires rotted from inside out. Here is a clip of the spot. Reel EFX, Inc - ReelEFX.com

OK, this one's a serious post.

The all-important step that your colleague missed is the following:

* After extracting from seawater, the immediate procedure is to re-immerse the vehicle in a previously-prepared freshwater bath - like a convenient swimming pool - and leave it there for several days. Just that pressure wash never was going to get to all the infinite number of interstices that a full dunk will have found, so you have to fight fire with fire here....so to speak.

This is what aircraft salvage operators routinely do. For some reason, they have more experience in that than auto salvagers seem to have. I think it's because of the extra zeros that planes' values have compared to autos....
 
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I think it's cruel of you guys to keep egging this poor bastard on, when we all know he's completely screwed.

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How To Salvage a Saltwater-immersed Vehicle

OK, this one's a serious post.

The all-important step that your colleague missed is the following:

* After extracting from seawater, the immediate procedure is to re-immerse the vehicle in a previously-prepared freshwater bath - like a convenient swimming pool - and leave it there for several days. Just that pressure wash never was going to get to all the infinite number of interstices that a full dunk will have found, so you have to fight fire with fire here....so to speak.

This is what aircraft salvage operators routinely do. For some reason, they have more experience in that than auto salvagers seem to have. I think it's because of the extra zeros that planes' values have compared to autos....

PS - ^^^ this. And preferably distilled water, as it's non-conductive. The instant the car comes out of salt water, immediate and ferocious (electro-galvanic) corrosion, especially around dissimilar metals.

Pack's shot, inverter's shot (and is matched to the motor), wiring's shot, interior's shot, body panels are corroded. All of us know this except the OP.

The glass is Ok, except the deposition metals on it are corroded...
 
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I think it's cruel of you guys to keep egging this poor bastard on, when we all know he's completely screwed.
PS - ^^^ this. And preferably distilled water, as it's non-conductive. The instant the car comes out of salt water, immediate and ferocious (electro-galvanic) corrosion, especially around dissimilar metals.Pack's shot, inverter's shot (and is matched to the motor), wiring's shot, interior's shot, body panels are corroded. All of us know this except the OP.
The glass is Ok, except the deposition metals on it are corroded...

You are probably right about most of the electronic components being beyond repair.
However, the car has considerable value for salvage parts including the Aluminum body panels.

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Man that is one complex connection block on the top of that battery....
I wonder why they chose to junction right there on top of the battery and not put that block somewhere on a wall mounting area?
I would think that making the battery connection simpler would benefit ease of maintenance.
I feel that flexing that connection block on top of the battery will lead to electrical faults in the long run?

Are the new Model S built the same way or has Tesla simplified that? I am aware that the battery moved on the dual engine model, to an easier to access area.
Your battery is dated July 2014. One wonders if the battery was original from build date or a replacement from that date?

Ha, the car was made December of 2012, so this battery was definitely replaced. I'm curious to see if the drive unit was replaced as well.... probably was.
I cant comment on the new model S battery placement, however I DO know that the DC/DC converter was revised and moved on the generation 2 MS

The good news is it appears that water did not reach the fuses ... did you find the high water mark?
The 12V battery was relocated to the fire wall area by Tesla in 2014 to provide better access for service.