Nope the cooler gave me a little bit more time before thermal cut kicks in. It’s an expensive $1500 for the second hotlapInteresting.......have you noticed any increase in efficiency from the new fluid or cooler temps?
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Nope the cooler gave me a little bit more time before thermal cut kicks in. It’s an expensive $1500 for the second hotlapInteresting.......have you noticed any increase in efficiency from the new fluid or cooler temps?
The official instructions are complex and need many special tools. You pump fluid out with the internal oil pump using an external power pack and custom filter adapter, you put a specific amount back in, you run the pumps some to get it all moved around, you suck some fluid out, then you use a special tool dipstick to check the level.I can probably dig up the "official" instructions. My entire life I've just drained and filled to the top of the fill hole.
The last part is what throws me for a loop. Anyone can get a 12V power supply from Costco & run the pump, and then dump a bit w/o the adapter (at the expense of probably making a mess).The official instructions are complex and need many special tools. You pump fluid out with the internal oil pump using an external power pack and custom filter adapter, you put a specific amount back in, you run the pumps some to get it all moved around, you suck some fluid out, then you use a special tool dipstick to check the level.
Nothing in the manual says you just fill to a hole and move on. So checking exactly how much you take out and putting that amount back in sounds a lot easier.
I love that somebody uploaded this. We need to continue spreading this knowledge otherwise my ownership of this car will be relatively short-lived. I can't stand Tesla's "**** you" approach to DIY, as it seems to be shaping up... Every tech I've encountered both remote & SC seems to be pretty cool, though.I think the "suck some fluid out: part is the important one. The instructions actually have you over-fill the drive unit, then extract a bit using a custom adapter that draws fluid internally from a level that is lower than the fill hole.
At least that's what I get from the instructions. You can interpret it yourself:
Front: Tesla MODEL 3 SERVICE MANUAL: GEARBOX FLUID - FRONT DRIVE UNIT (DRAIN AND REFILL)
Rear: Tesla MODEL 3 SERVICE MANUAL: GEARBOX - REAR DRIVE UNIT (REMOVE AND REPLACE)
Fixyourtesla.com is awesome, and needs more attention. We need to link it every time we can. I hope it survives- I'm with you, I won't ever buy another Tesla if they don't allow service information to be public.I love that somebody uploaded this
Service manual requests usage of dipstick to check oil levels. But dipstick is part of service center tools, so we don't have it. And everyone is eyeballing if they put enough oil.What do you mean Tesla has required a dipstick to check oil levels?
The lifetime of a car for a manufacturer IS 100,000 miles. I would not wait for the fluid to completely break down to change it. I am going to change it between 40k and 50k regardless of what manufacturer says.Yep, this is exactly correct. Conventional transmissions have clutch packs that slowly wear over time, so the fluid has to deal with this clutch material. I've never been one to buy off on lifetime fluids in most cases, but for these cars is probably pretty accurate.
Me being me, I would opt to change around 100,000 miles to ensure the best possible lubrication of these expensive components going out of warranty. I don't think the motor would care, though. It would make me feel better, though, and for a nominal cost probably worthwhile in my eyes.
The lifetime fluid means the lifetime of the component, once it failed it has ended its lifetime!The lifetime of a car for a manufacturer IS 100,000 miles. I would not wait for the fluid to completely break down to change it. I am going to change it between 40k and 50k regardless of what manufacturer says.
How does a filter limit oxidation or improve shear stability?Any oil/lubricant once opened and expose to the air, moisture and heat will start to break down/oxidize(I have seen oil with and without a shelf life so it does expire even sealed), not to mention the mechanical loads in the drive unit break down the shear stability of the oil. Tesla engineers designed a filter into the drive unit for a reason, even if it's just for the break-in period.
The filter doesn't. I didn't convey my message clearly.How does a filter limit oxidation or improve shear stability?
Oil filters are there to prevent metal from using the oil to move around, nothing to do with the oil itself.
I've still been doing well with the Royal Purple MAX ATF. I couldn't find the ATF-9 anywhere.
I purchased three quarts for my very empty box and using the lot filled to just under the level/fill plug although I could fill it from the vent on top. Works out to be around 2.75 litres so happy with that.I've still been doing well with the Royal Purple MAX ATF. I couldn't find the ATF-9 anywhere.
It's interesting that it is advertised as 7+ but satisfies Tesla ATF9.has anyone tried this?
SynMulti ATF 7+ productinformatie. - Vatoil
SynMulti ATF 7+ is a synthetic, multi-functional ATF with fuel-saving properties. This product has been specially developed for modern, automatic transmissions by various car manufacturers that require a high-grade, low-viscosity ATF with fuel-saving properties. Always check the product advice...www.vatoil.com
Did you have any luck and if so, what did you use in the end?I tried to purchase some oil from a Tesla SC in the UK and apart from apologising after telling me they cannot sell ATF over the counter, they did send these pics of the oil they use.
Odd that it clearly states made in South Korea yet the the label on top states its of USA origin.
Does anyone know of an equivalent in the UK? Would an ATF-9 from another supplier be ok to use? The number 9 seems to denote the number of gears in the box the oil is designed for.
I am installing a Model 3 rear motor in to a Lotus Evora chassis. The motor came drained of oil.
Royal purple atf max at your local auto parts store, or purchase atf9 on eBay (via the product numbers)Did you have any luck and if so, what did you use in the end?