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Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach
- Thread starter FalconFour
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Let's start here.
What did you get, what did you install, did you take any pictures, did you double check your adapter build?
Let's see pictures... of your installation, not the screen.
I recognize that adapter. And exactly when it was built.What the heck. Uh... let's take a deeper dive into it, if we can. Those errors, about the charge port being connected or whatever, those persist?
How's the charge port door and the lock? FYI, as to the plugs:
The charge port lock, temperature, control & prox pilot ("is it connected"), all handled by the plug with the adapter wiring.
The door, tap sensor, LEDs, are all handled by the middle connector on the ECU box (the one without the adapter).
Getting power & talking to the rest of the car is the last, slimmer connector.
I'd love to take that adapter out and double-check that it's put together correctly...
I would say that you need to check your adapter build. You likely have something put together wrong.
Also, since you got the ECU from eBay, it's a little sus as well. You must've gone through the long-path of having the car totally freak-out when you plugged it in, haha. But we might want to get the board out of that box to check it, too - but after we check the adapter (my first suspicion).
THIS. Someone could have ripped out a bad unit and just put it on The Bay. Did you read the condition of the unit before purchase? This is where sellers usually get you with the fine print as most focus on the description and not the condition.
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Yea it says in good working condition. But again u never know. Wish Id have a new 1 to try out
Perhaps a friendly Tesla owner will do a swap with you locally in Sacramento? If you lived in Massachusetts I could do it with you.
I don't know how much you paid, but ideally you would send it back sooner than later to get a refund once you have proven it's the ECU.
Yea as soon as I will find thats ecu problem im returning it. And thanks 4 the offer appreciate it. I paid $250 btw
Judging by the symptoms, this is the most sus connection at the moment:
Might just send you another one to try and eliminate that possibility.
Hmm...
Might just send you another one to try and eliminate that possibility.
Hmm...Should i try to push it in? That would be awesome if u could. If it does the same i will send it backJudging by the symptoms, this is the most sus connection at the moment:
View attachment 806305
Might just send you another one to try and eliminate that possibility.
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You're my hero. ℹ
YES! That'd do it (the white pin is the 2.7k pull-down for Prox, thus the error it's presenting). Though I'm surprised it didn't come-up when I was doing earlier testing without even having that resistor there at all... I added it just out of sheer compliance/parity. Turns out, it's necessary after all and mine just may not have been detecting it
But yeah, that's out of place. Here's what makes it worse: this was a pre-assembled one I did
Whoops. Was a bit frazzled...So, uh, @Izzy1315 ~ are you able to move that pin over? First, release the TPA (Terminal Position Assurance - white bar across the edge - you can insert a tiny something-or-other in there and pry up each side to open it), then find something pin-like to push into the release holes on the pins side of the connector (above/beside each pin is a small extra hole - that's the release hole), stuff it all the way in there, and then you should be able to pull the white wire out with gentle force. Move it over a position (refer to this post), push it in, and use a tool to push the terminal in until it clicks. Then, smoosh the TPA lock bar back down. It'll only smoosh if everything is in position.
See this post for awesome detailed photos by @Randy Spencer.
If no, I'll get hustling on building a new one. I'm kinda behind on orders
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I see a problem with the position of the 2.7k resistor. You have in position 6. It should be in position
You're my hero. ℹ
YES! That'd do it (the white pin is the 2.7k pull-down for Prox, thus the error it's presenting). Though I'm surprised it didn't come-up when I was doing earlier testing without even having that resistor there at all... I added it just out of sheer compliance/parity. Turns out, it's necessary after all and mine just may not have been detecting it
But yeah, that's out of place. Here's what makes it worse: this was a pre-assembled one I did
View attachment 806458View attachment 806459
So, uh, @Izzy1315 ~ are you able to move that pin over? First, release the TPA (Terminal Position Assurance - white bar across the edge - you can insert a tiny something-or-other in there and pry up each side to open it), then find something pin-like to push into the release holes on the pins side of the connector (above/beside each pin is a small extra hole - that's the release hole), stuff it all the way in there, and then you should be able to pull the white wire out with gentle force. Move it over a position (refer to this post), push it in, and use a tool to push the terminal in until it clicks. Then, smoosh the TPA lock bar back down. It'll only smoosh if everything is in position.
See this post for awesome detailed photos by @Randy Spencer.
If no, I'll get hustling on building a new one. I'm kinda behind on orders
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