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Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

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I was kinda glad I mis-pinned so I could include re-doing a pin in my photos.

I wonder what the WORST bad install is going to be. Someone burn out a temp sensor? Spazz out a Supercharger?

Also wonder what the first hack I installed that causes me issues will be. I just picked up my car from service while on a roadtrip 1000 miles from home and the light was off in my frunk, the tech came out and quickly pulled it apart and put it back together. I thanked him and as we went home (it was almost 1:30am) I pressed the button which causes my Hansshow automatic frunk to activate. It lowered and then just as he rounded the corner out of site it opened again. We ended up pulling the button out of the circuit and closing the hood, and when I got home I remembered that symptom and tried to reverse the cables and it worked, but it probably won't be the last time I need to repair something that I installed.
 
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I'd suggest, if you see unexpected throttling that comes down smoothly from a higher power, stop it and feel the plug(s). In my experience, when a plug gets hot, it slows - it doesn't stop completely. Approximately the same scale of "mm? that's not warm?" to "Ow, that's burning hot!" is the scale the car understands as well. :)

Very-much could be a station issue, too - not uncommon. One of my first tests was at an EA station that kept oscillating between ~60kW and ~120kW, back and forth, repeatedly, while there were really no cars around me to be potentially sharing anything. Seems the station just wasn't ... quite... feeling good that day.
So I went back to test the other stalls. First stall only got in the 40s kW so I moved over to a different stall, and got 92 kW off the bat @ 40ish%. Around minute 4, it went from 86 kW back to the 34 kW I saw the other day. The whole time, I was checking the handle, the CCS adapter, and the port on the car side to see if it was getting overheated. Everything seemed cool, except maybe the port did feel a little warmer (not much tho). I ended the sessions because I don't need the battery full right now plus at 30 kW....☠️

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When I got home, I decided to check the bundle, and everything seems accurate (correct resistor values and correct pinouts). Posting pictures, maybe someone can see something that's off.

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I'll have the opportunity on Sunday to test it out on an 350 kW EA station, some 50 kW Volta stations as well as some Superchargers, hopefully its just this CCS site is garbage.
 
Context-free bundle of wires? Check.
Gen4 charge port ECU? Check.
Friendly visit to the parking lot of the nearest Tesla-approved body shop? Check.

And now I wait...
Image4397603572311678175.jpg


In my quest to get a Gen4 ECU, I visited 3 service centers. My local pointed me to EPC, where I discovered the ridiculous $200 shipping charge. The next one was locked... something something COVID-19. The guy at the 3rd service center knew exactly what I was asking for right away, apparently they've had a lot of requests for the Gen4 ECU. Unfortunately they had none in stock, and he mentioned that all their orders to stock some were being canceled. I told him about the $200 shipping charge, and he kinda just shrugged.

Fast-forward a week or so, while I was on EPC to get some parts for a Model X rebuild, I checked the cost of the Gen4 ECU again (just for fun. I had already checked a bunch of times to make sure the $200 shipping charge wasn't just a glitch). And whaddya know, it was only asking $8 for shipping! I've never clicked an order button faster than that.

If anyone's curious as to why the charge port needs an update to work properly, this is what the car has to say:
Image9199735100869981142.jpg
 
Fast-forward a week or so, while I was on EPC to get some parts for a Model X rebuild, I checked the cost of the Gen4 ECU again (just for fun. I had already checked a bunch of times to make sure the $200 shipping charge wasn't just a glitch). And whaddya know, it was only asking $8 for shipping! I've never clicked an order button faster than that.
What do you have to do to be able to see prices and place orders from the EPC?
 
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What do you have to do to be able to see prices and place orders from the EPC?
When you sign in to EPC I think there's a link for a parts ordering application form. That's what I was told to submit. I left the parts about workers insurance and shop photos and stuff blank (cause I don't have any of that). I did have a used car dealer business license that I was able to use.

I'm not sure what they expect if you don't have a business license. Maybe they don't care if that's blank too.
 
Context-free bundle of wires? Check.
Gen4 charge port ECU? Check.
Friendly visit to the parking lot of the nearest Tesla-approved body shop? Check.

And now I wait...
View attachment 806886

In my quest to get a Gen4 ECU, I visited 3 service centers. My local pointed me to EPC, where I discovered the ridiculous $200 shipping charge. The next one was locked... something something COVID-19. The guy at the 3rd service center knew exactly what I was asking for right away, apparently they've had a lot of requests for the Gen4 ECU. Unfortunately they had none in stock, and he mentioned that all their orders to stock some were being canceled. I told him about the $200 shipping charge, and he kinda just shrugged.

Fast-forward a week or so, while I was on EPC to get some parts for a Model X rebuild, I checked the cost of the Gen4 ECU again (just for fun. I had already checked a bunch of times to make sure the $200 shipping charge wasn't just a glitch). And whaddya know, it was only asking $8 for shipping! I've never clicked an order button faster than that.

If anyone's curious as to why the charge port needs an update to work properly, this is what the car has to say:
View attachment 806889
unknown MAC address? does this give us a clue that all electronic components are communicating over ethernet?
 
Context-free bundle of wires? Check.
Gen4 charge port ECU? Check.
Friendly visit to the parking lot of the nearest Tesla-approved body shop? Check.

And now I wait...
Haha it worked! Thanks again @FalconFour.
Image26178453508143555.jpg

Theoretically it should be able to pull a lot closer to 180kW (It's a 350kW, 500A station), but even this is a huge upgrade over the 50kW joke that was CHAdeMO. Speaking of which, anyone want to buy it from me? :D

Also weird, I'm not being able to react to other people's posts (otherwise I'd have given you a thumbs up for post #789 @MP3Mike). Also haven't been able to PM people recently, even though I have in the past. Seems to have been a new member thing, it's all good now.
 
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Theoretically it should be able to pull a lot closer to 180kW (It's a 350kW, 500A station), but even this is a huge upgrade over the 50kW joke that was CHAdeMO. Speaking of which, anyone want to buy it from me? :D

Also weird, I'm not being able to react to other people's posts (otherwise I'd have given you a thumbs up for post #789 @MP3Mike). Also haven't been able to PM people recently, even though I have in the past.
Also wanted to add that it tapered down to ~80kW by the time it got to 60% SOC. I seem to not be able to edit my own posts either. Nvm, new member thing, all good now.
 
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So I got it installed and working properly (for the most part), however, I don't think I'm going to need the CCS upgrade before I upgrade to a new model Y. Next update I'm going to swap back the old one, so if anyone is looking for an assembled bundle of wires, and an ECU to go with it, lmk.

As for the issues I've seen so far:
- Charge port door staying open after charging at home, multiple times so far
- Didn't get it to work on a 350kw EVGO charger (the only one near me), just kept failing the handshake

As for funnier issues:
My wife tried to charge at work, plugged into a chargepoint and then when she got home she mentioned it didn't seem to have charged at all. Turns out she used the CCS adapter instead of the J1772 one, whoops. Guess that's on me for not explaining the difference lol
 
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So I got it installed and working properly (for the most part), however, I don't think I'm going to need the CCS upgrade before I upgrade to a new model Y. Next update I'm going to swap back the old one, so if anyone is looking for an assembled bundle of wires, and an ECU to go with it, lmk.

...

As for funnier issues:
My wife tried to charge at work, plugged into a chargepoint and then when she got home she mentioned it didn't seem to have charged at all. Turns out she used the CCS adapter instead of the J1772 one, whoops. Guess that's on me for not explaining the difference lol
PM sent about your ecu/bundle

And the adapter thing is pretty funny, I had to explain how it worked to my girlfriend when she borrowed my tesla, though it would be impossible to confuse a chademo adapter (elephant trunk) with the tesla-j1772 adapter.
 
As for the issues I've seen so far:
- Charge port door staying open after charging at home, multiple times so far
So I am NOT the only one. I was beginning to think the close function was broke on my charge flap. I don't believe I have seen it close by itself since I did the upgrade. I even tried to open it with the remote and then close it again and it wouldn't close even then.
 
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So I am NOT the only one. I was beginning to think the close function was broke on my charge flap. I don't believe I have seen it close by itself since I did the upgrade. I even tried to open it with the remote and then close it again and it wouldn't close even then.
This is a weird report - something I've only rarely seen myself, reported as always happening to you. As it relates to the upgrade, the charge port door is entirely unaffected. It passes straight through to the ECU. The door is controlled/sensed by the middle connector (the one without the Bundle), and it contains the motor drive, position sense, tap sensor, all that jazz. Straight-through connection there.

I'd recommend trying to focus on what it's doing, as to nail down what causes it not to close - exactly what state things are in when you're expecting it to do so. That might also inform you as what not to do, if you can find what triggers it to not close...

By the way, now is a fine time to mention that you can always slap the door closed by hand, and it'll detect it's being closed, and will close. It's not unlike the CD/DVD trays of yesteryear... they're perfectly happy being pushed-in to close. With the door flap, it's on a torque clutch. If you get a "click" out of it, it's just the clutch - it's meant to do that.
 
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