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Roadster 3.0

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I'm a bit concerned about my upgrade...

I'm in Seattle while my Roadster is being upgraded to the new "3.0" battery in Maryland.

Yesterday, they said they were installing the battery, and today OVMS shows that it is charging. This should make me feel good!

However, OVMS is showing charging in Standard Mode with a current State of Charge of 79%, and reporting an Ideal Range of just 132 Miles. This sounds like my old battery range.

Does it take some driving or other steps before it starts reporting in the new range? I know that it's likely nobody here knows, but I'm beginning to worry.
Are you sure it isn't? Perhaps they are just charging up the old battery before removing it.

Or, more likely, is there a calibration knob somewhere that needs to be changed to re-scale for the new battery?
 
I'm a bit concerned about my upgrade...

I'm in Seattle while my Roadster is being upgraded to the new "3.0" battery in Maryland.

Yesterday, they said they were installing the battery, and today OVMS shows that it is charging. This should make me feel good!

However, OVMS is showing charging in Standard Mode with a current State of Charge of 79%, and reporting an Ideal Range of just 132 Miles. This sounds like my old battery range.

Does it take some driving or other steps before it starts reporting in the new range? I know that it's likely nobody here knows, but I'm beginning to worry.

Perhaps check the CAC? (either SMS, or Settings / (i) on left when connected). You should see <=160 for {1,2}.x battery and bigger for 3.0.
 
OK, this just seems weird.

OVMS is still reporting a CAC of 127.84, which seems to indicate the old battery.

However, I saw the State of Charge reach 100% at 168 Ideal Miles without any ramp-down of amperage (remained at 40 Amps). Range went to a bit over 200 miles before the current started to ramp down. This seems to indicate a new battery.

Next time I looked, charging had stopped, and OVMS shows SOC of 84%, and range of 138 Ideal Miles. It is still plugged in, and has remained parked for over 6 hours.

Odd. Guess I'll just have to wait and see what I have when I get home on Friday.
 
Hi Curt,

That sounds like your car has the new battery but perhaps not the new firmware. Maybe they upgrade the firmware after they have installed the new battery and done some testing/charging.

I'm sure they won't give you a v3 battery that doesn't have the increased capacity. It's probably best not to watch too closely while they're in the middle of it.

Tom
 
That sounds like your car has the new battery but perhaps not the new firmware. Maybe they upgrade the firmware after they have installed the new battery and done some testing/charging.

I'm sure they won't give you a v3 battery that doesn't have the increased capacity. It's probably best not to watch too closely while they're in the middle of it.

I'm sure you're right, Tom, I should just let them get on with it. I just found myself wanting to know what's going on while my car is being upgraded at home and I'm 2800 miles away.

At any rate, they've disconnected my OVMS now, so I just have to wait until I'm home to find out.
 
Hi folks my turn is up for the upgrade and I need some help crossing the threshold :)
Was the cost exactly $29K so you paid $24K (29K - 5K deposit)?
Is the upgrade likely to somewhat increase the value of the car? Clearly the Roadster isn't yet a collectible but I am thinking a well-maintained one with the battery upgrade has a good chance of becoming one.
 
While I have not yet pulled the trigger what you said is my understanding. We pay $5k and then a year or so later another $24k for the battery and I assume we also pay applicable sales tax. I assume a collector down the road would pay extra for the newer better battery. And say if the life ends up being 15 years. Then you are good for another 15 rather than for another 5.
 
I'm going to bet that there's a slim chance of a commercially made (not homebrew) aftermarket battery for the Roadster within 5 years. I.e., I wouldn't not get the 3.0 battery now, in the hopes of getting something equivalent and cheaper in 5. That time may never come.

The question I have is whether to get the battery now because it will give me extra range (arguably a luxury), vs waiting until my original battery degrades to the point where I will have to get a new battery (a necessity). I'd like to see some more data on the reported CAC degradation before deciding. History is too short to know yet. Maybe in a month or two...?
 
I am considering whether to defer as well but my worry is that the 3.0 battery won't be available for too much longer.
We have a window before the Model 3 ramps up and the factory is swamped with service and maintenance issues.
Well, there's a year-ish wait for the battery, and the ramp for M3 will be far shorter than that, so I hope you're wrong. Presumably the various "production lines" are independent enough, especially since the 3.0 battery is reported to be hand-built. But I see your point about where those "hands" could be coming from. Too late now...

Long term, Tesla needs to keep building the new battery, since cells for the old battery are either not available, or becoming increasingly scarce. There was a thread on the topic somewhere which discusses the commitments Tesla has for the battery replacement program that was offered to new buyers years ago. I think the conclusion was that, if for no other reason, we'd be able to get the new battery for at least a few more years. So, I'm keeping one eye on the CAC-o-meter, and one on this thread, trying not to do anything rash. Yet.
 
New The question in my mind is whether an aftermarket battery in 5 years will cost a lot less than 29K today.
To me, "aftermarket" means "from a third party, not from Tesla". If that is what you meant, I do not expect there to ever be an "aftermarket" Roadster battery because there are so few Roadsters and the potential market is too small to make it worthwhile for another company to offer such a product.

If instead your definition of "aftermarket battery" is "a replacement Roadster battery from Tesla, and you think that such a battery will cost less than $29K five years from now, I think that is very unlikely. Tesla has stated that the 3.0 battery is very labor intensive to manufacture and that is why it is so costly. That will not change no matter what cells are used, in my opinion.

I wouldn't not get the 3.0 battery now, in the hopes of getting something equivalent and cheaper in 5. That time may never come
Agreed.

New I am considering whether to defer as well but my worry is that the 3.0 battery won't be available for too much longer. We have a window before the Model 3 ramps up and the factory is swamped with service and maintenance issues.
I do not agree. Tesla is expanding to handle the higher production and sales volume that will result from the Model 3. Elon has stated as such. Will it be a struggle? Of course it will. But 3.0 battery orders will only be a few dozen a year, probably. The price of the battery pays for the labor cost to build them. I think Tesla will continue to offer the 3.0 battery for years to come.
 
For me I was holding off because my current battery is acceptable for any local driving though I do need a charge to do some day trips - the thing pushing me to do it was seeing how far out the actual new battery install was likely to be... I don't know if you can cancel the upgrade, I mean I'm sure I could forfeit my $5k if it came to that but since you can't just go in and get it done in a relative immediate fashion, I choose to operate on the assumption I'd have my car for some long foreseeable future.
 
Tesla has stated that the 3.0 battery is very labor intensive to manufacture and that is why it is so costly. That will not change no matter what cells are used, in my opinion.

Short term, yes, I agree. Long term, 10+ years, there may be significant battery advancements that building an energy dense pack using stacked prismatic cells which don't require liquid cooling may be relatively easy.
 
Maybe they will plug OVMS back in after they are done using that port to update the firmware and do any data analysis needed.

Thanks, Tom!

And, of course, that is exactly what happened, and I was needlessly concerned. When my OVMS came back on line, the car was Range Mode charging and reporting 89% SOC and 313 Ideal Miles. An hour after charging finished, it reported 97% SOC and 345 Ideal miles. CAC is currently 214.53. All is well.
 
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Thanks, Tom!

And, of course, that is exactly what happened, and I was needlessly concerned. When my OVMS came back on line, the car was Range Mode charging and reporting 89% SOC and 313 Ideal Miles. An hour after charging finished, it reported 97% SOC and 345 Ideal miles. CAC is currently 214.53. All is well.
Drool....

My CAC is stubbornly stable at 141 or so. Hasn't changed that much in 2 years, when I look at the graphs from the parser. Small decline overall, maybe a point or so overall. There was a step down a few months before I bought the car, but nothing like that since. Question to the group: does the CAC tend to slowly grind itself down over time, or will there be an increasing "knee of the curve" in degradation that I should look for? What does the typical CAC graph look like over time?
 
Drool....

My CAC is stubbornly stable at 141 or so. Hasn't changed that much in 2 years, when I look at the graphs from the parser. Small decline overall, maybe a point or so overall. There was a step down a few months before I bought the car, but nothing like that since. Question to the group: does the CAC tend to slowly grind itself down over time, or will there be an increasing "knee of the curve" in degradation that I should look for? What does the typical CAC graph look like over time?
It typically has knees. They usually correspond to a long drive or low discharge which allows the system to perform a more accurate estimate when it recharges. It's also temperature related. My CAC starts dropping in the fall as it gets cold and rises again starting in May or June. Many times after a sudden drop it will slowly rise again if you mostly take short trips.