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Gtech
Active Member
When changing out both condensors with brand new ones how much ND-11 oil do you guy's think we need to add?
I tried to weigh old and new part but there is too much of a difference.
I tried to weigh old and new part but there is too much of a difference.
Gtech
Active Member
I did use the search function earlier and found a message of him saying '2 capfuls' but i'm not sure how much that weights. My English isn't that great sorry for that
Today after changing the coolant with a Model S (using the fluid drain/refill on toolbox so I’m sure it was on series mode while doing the drain and refill later on) I got the limp mode for front motor. Reason being announced on basic-alerts; low flow.
I kept purging the air out of the system until the coolant reservoir was up close to max. It shuts down after driving a while, saying “graceful shutdown”. After opening the doors and closing them all errors are gone and I can drive a few more minutes until it shuts down again.
I also did a thermal system test, during the test I got BMS isolation fault. However after the test that error was gone.
Anyone have ideas what the issue might be? Sloppy refill/drain job and there’s still air in the system?
I kept purging the air out of the system until the coolant reservoir was up close to max. It shuts down after driving a while, saying “graceful shutdown”. After opening the doors and closing them all errors are gone and I can drive a few more minutes until it shuts down again.
I also did a thermal system test, during the test I got BMS isolation fault. However after the test that error was gone.
Anyone have ideas what the issue might be? Sloppy refill/drain job and there’s still air in the system?
I'm no authority on the topic, but in my experience air bubbles can cause mayhem in any cooling system. My ICE car almost died because of an air bubble that manifested months after the drain/refill (in summer, hit season, etc).
Could you have a leak somewhere? That would be a pain. I changed my central radiator, refilled and purged driving around, charging and turning the car on/off. Seems to work well so far.
Hey @rooter, why don't you upload this to unofficial tesla tech for the A/C recharge? You've already done half of the writing, and with minor modifications you can add a nice article to the library.
BTW NEVER OPEN THE HIGH PRESSURE LINE. Not even to put the high pressure gauge of the manifold.
Thanks M0rpH3x,i think your message caught his attention.
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In the facelift version, the fuse is in the accessible fuse box on the front. There are two fuses and one relay:
F117 - 10A - Air suspension control valves
F154 - 40A - Air suspension compressor
K112 - Air suspension controller
I had a look at those first thing, and they looked fine. But I think I should follow your suggestion and make sure those are not the problem.
I checked again the fuses. Both F154 and F117 give me ~0.3 ohm resistances. Taking into account all the tests I have done, it seems to me that the car doesn't even try to turn on the compressor or the valve block. The other things to check are the height sensors and the crash data in the TAS.
I really need some diagnostics equipment...
I really need some diagnostics equipment...
Hi, maybe someone got a hint for me.
In March I posted here that the MCU of my 2017' X burned off. Being out of warranty I decided to try a used MCU.
In the meantime -thanks to a helping hand from here at TMC- we got a used MCU 1 running in the car.
Car keys are gone as the chip was lost (so no app access) but it drives, shows the right mileage and VIN.
We also have 2-3 issues left and as my "personal angel" is on holiday, I thought to ask over here:
- Drivers and passengers door do not work completely, all others do (from MCU or via door handle).
They only open from the inside, not via MCU, nor double clicking the key nor pressing the door handle.
Actuator, window lift and ambiente light work fine, so the doors are under power.
But the car thinks both doors are always open.
I checked the fuses, wiring, all seems to be ok. The ECU is the original in each door.
Any idea what the problem could be?
- The car also complains that traction control, stability control (=right term?) and parking aid do not work.
Here I am not sure where to start the search, fuses seem to be fine and all plugs are in place.
Do you know where I can find these "modules" in the car? Maybe I can start over there.
- The radio also doesn't work, but this is less important (but maybe deals with the other stuff?).
Thanks for any useful hint.
Regards, Martin
In March I posted here that the MCU of my 2017' X burned off. Being out of warranty I decided to try a used MCU.
In the meantime -thanks to a helping hand from here at TMC- we got a used MCU 1 running in the car.
Car keys are gone as the chip was lost (so no app access) but it drives, shows the right mileage and VIN.
We also have 2-3 issues left and as my "personal angel" is on holiday, I thought to ask over here:
- Drivers and passengers door do not work completely, all others do (from MCU or via door handle).
They only open from the inside, not via MCU, nor double clicking the key nor pressing the door handle.
Actuator, window lift and ambiente light work fine, so the doors are under power.
But the car thinks both doors are always open.
I checked the fuses, wiring, all seems to be ok. The ECU is the original in each door.
Any idea what the problem could be?
- The car also complains that traction control, stability control (=right term?) and parking aid do not work.
Here I am not sure where to start the search, fuses seem to be fine and all plugs are in place.
Do you know where I can find these "modules" in the car? Maybe I can start over there.
- The radio also doesn't work, but this is less important (but maybe deals with the other stuff?).
Thanks for any useful hint.
Regards, Martin
I have a question and any help or direction would be much appreciated. I recently purchased a salvaged 2017 model x that had been in a front end accident. the car did not run and drive i suspect be cause of the first reponders loop being cut at the accident and the airbag fuse since all the airbags went off. when i received the car i hooked up a battery pack to the 12v battery, the car turned on long enough for me to put the car in tow mode and tell me that there was 0 mile of charge in the hv and then turned off. i purchased a charger for the car and unfortunately didnt have and outlet close enough to reach the car so i used a extension cord. the car turned on and said that the 12v needed to be replaced and that it was receiving insufficient power and could not charge. i suspected the issue was the extension cord so i purchased a 10 gauge extension cord and again attempted to charge the car again, again it would not charge but now nothing comes on. the charger just flashes dark blue and the goes green and the dark blue and repeats the cycle. i am in the process tomorrow of getting a replacement 12v but is there something else i may have missed or ruined? the car sat at the auction yard for nearly 2 months before i got it. if the car is bricked can it be saved and how? again any help would be appreciated thanks
If you bought an aftermarket pyrofuse, you might have to dremel the tabs around the connector, so it seats properly. This will be relevant when you clear the SRS data to remove the airbag light on the dash. Once you install the pyrofuse, even if the connector doesn't seat properly, your car (most likely) will charge fine.
@M0rpH3x i originally bought an aftermarket one which i received but it does look at all the same or fit as the oem so im in the process of sending it back and waiting for the new one that looks oem so hopefully that one works. ive attached a photo of the two the yellow on is the oem one. also im assuming i still need to replace the 12v @MP3Mike @M0rpH3x
Attachments
This is exactly what I meant. I take the one on the left is the original, and the one on the right is the aftermarket. The aftermarket is fine, but first you'll need to transplant the plastic socket (I think it's white in the original and yellow in the aftermarket) from your fired pyrofuse to the aftermarket. Make sure the metal tabs do good contact with the pins and that the orientation is correct.
The second part is more subtle. If you compare both pyrofuses carefully, you'll see that the one on the right has some plastic tabs connecting the central circle (where the socket is) with the outer oval. In the original pyrofuse, these tabs are missing, and you won't be able to seat the connector if they are there. So you have to dremel them out until the connector seats properly until the end.
Or you can look for a different pyrofuse. I don't know how easy is to find something that works for a Tesla out of the box for the same price. I know those aftermarket are quite cheap and do the job.
It's very important to never test fuses in-circuit. The current can loop back through other parts of the car and give false readings. Those should have read zero resistance. (unless you have a cheap meter)
However you can test the big fuses with the car powered up, making sure there's 12v on -both- sides of the fuse.
Too bad you didn't get your old gateway file. Those settings would have helped some of these problems. Check my backups script.
Maybe you have "Premium" audio and the car the replacement MCU came from did not, or vice-versa.
I can't even read this. It's impolite to post streams-of-consciousness in a public forum.
