You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
When changing out both condensors with brand new ones how much ND-11 oil do you guy's think we need to add?
I tried to weigh old and new part but there is too much of a difference.
Sloppy refill/drain job and there’s still air in the system?
Hey @rooter, why don't you upload this to unofficial tesla tech for the A/C recharge? You've already done half of the writing, and with minor modifications you can add a nice article to the library.Nonsense. There's a high-pressure switch and a low-pressure switch on the lines, and you're getting borked by the latter.
It is very important to understand that the coils for the compressor are exposed to the refrigerant/oil, and that they're running 400v. You must use a very specific oil or else you'll poison the whole system and the compressor will develop carbon trails. You can not use a gauge set if it has -ever- been used in a normal mineral-oil system. Even a drop will poison your system. (Don't ask me how I know) A poisoned system is recoverable (I did it), but you don't want to even get close.
You don't say whether the replaced condenser was new or used; if used don't worry about adding oil. If new, pay Tesla for the right oil. Two capfuls, under the circumstances.
The desiccant bag is in the right (supercool) condenser, in a vertical manifold. There's a screw cap on the bottom. You can save a couple bucks on eBat, but just buy one from Tesla.
Rent an A/C vacuum pump and pull that system down for at least an hour. There must not be a molecule of air or water in the system. Then carefully put in the right weight of refrigerant, purging the gauge lines before letting it into the system.
There are lots of articles I could write, but just barely have time to check a few threads here.
Bet you haven't checked this:
View attachment 562839
It's under another layer of fuses.
On my 2015 it's secretly hidden in the frunk under the A/C intake.
If you bought an aftermarket pyrofuse, you might have to dremel the tabs around the connector, so it seats properly. This will be relevant when you clear the SRS data to remove the airbag light on the dash. Once you install the pyrofuse, even if the connector doesn't seat properly, your car (most likely) will charge fine.i replaced the first reponders loop i am still waiting for a pyro fuse to come in the mail but okay thanks @MP3Mike
This is exactly what I meant. I take the one on the left is the original, and the one on the right is the aftermarket. The aftermarket is fine, but first you'll need to transplant the plastic socket (I think it's white in the original and yellow in the aftermarket) from your fired pyrofuse to the aftermarket. Make sure the metal tabs do good contact with the pins and that the orientation is correct.@M0rpH3x i originally bought an aftermarket one which i received but it does look at all the same or fit as the oem so im in the process of sending it back and waiting for the new one that looks oem so hopefully that one works. ive attached a photo of the two the yellow on is the oem one. also im assuming i still need to replace the 12v @MP3Mike @M0rpH3x
It's very important to never test fuses in-circuit. The current can loop back through other parts of the car and give false readings. Those should have read zero resistance. (unless you have a cheap meter)I checked again the fuses. Both F154 and F117 give me ~0.3 ohm resistances. Taking into account all the tests I have done, it seems to me that the car doesn't even try to turn on the compressor or the valve block. The other things to check are the height sensors and the crash data in the TAS..
Too bad you didn't get your old gateway file. Those settings would have helped some of these problems. Check my backups script.We also have 2-3 issues left and as my "personal angel" is on holiday, I thought to ask over here:
I can't even read this. It's impolite to post streams-of-consciousness in a public forum.I have a question and any help or direction would be much appreciated. I recently purchased a salvaged 2017 model x that had been in a front end accident. the car did not run and drive i suspect be cause of the first reponders loop being cut at the accident and the airbag fuse since all the airbags went off. when i received the car i hooked up a battery pack to the 12v battery, the car turned on long enough for me to put the car in tow mode and tell me that there was 0 mile of charge in the hv and then turned off. i purchased a charger for the car and unfortunately didnt have and outlet close enough to reach the car so i used a extension cord. the car turned on and said that the 12v needed to be replaced and that it was receiving insufficient power and could not charge. i suspected the issue was the extension cord so i purchased a 10 gauge extension cord and again attempted to charge the car again, again it would not charge but now nothing comes on. the charger just flashes dark blue and the goes green and the dark blue and repeats the cycle. i am in the process tomorrow of getting a replacement 12v but is there something else i may have missed or ruined? the car sat at the auction yard for nearly 2 months before i got it. if the car is bricked can it be saved and how? again any help would be appreciated thanks