I have made a downloadable image of Toolbox2, offline version. Works on mcu1 cars, requires car to be in factory mode. DM me if interested.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
I’m really happy to give you all this info and run all these tests, but I’m a bit screwed that I can’t pass the inspection in Europe. If anyone has ideas to share on how to do this without breaking the bank, I’d gladly give up root and embrace Tesla big-brotherish supervision of my car.
brainhouston
Active Member
so just to clarify, u got answer thru app that it can be done but they won't touch exported car?
To clarify: I got an answer that it could be done in the US. In Europe, I’m still out of luck because it’s an exported car, but I’m discussing it with a service center, I’ll keep you guys posted.
Were you ever able to get your fast charging/ supercharging fixed I have a 17 model x too. Same situation
VegarHenriksen
Member
Requires additional wiring from BCM which can be run through firewall+ config change from HID to LED, but the most important part is a Toolbox fw upgrade of the BCM module. Did this on mine this summer.
I used a channel lock/vice grip like this video. Loosen the nut but leave it on to grip against. Or probably will work much better if put on a hex nut that provide better grip for the channel lock/vice grip rather than the rounded top nut on the car.
Stuck Wiper Arm - Easy Removal Method - YouTube
Also used a fastener remover to help but avoid high leverage against the plastic cowl (glass underneath). There is a rubber cap underneath to protect the rotor spindle from water corrosion. Be careful to not rip that.
Amazon.com: XBRN Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Fastener Car Panel Door Window Tool, Auto Clip Fastener Remover Pry Tool, Clip Puller Rivet Removal Tool : Automotive
First time was the hardest. I guess from corroded fitting over the years. 2nd time a few days later much easier. Need to work it at different angles to get it loose.
Thanks for the reply but I came across a youtube video right after I posted the above concern. One of the comments said to release the pressure on the spring loaded arm by push puling it up at the bend and I should be able to wiggle it out. I tried that and got both arms off within a minute of wiggling them back n forth. So much time wasted running around for the tools lol.
I've a new problem and was wondering if there's a way to completely power down a 2015 Model S from under the hood?
I unplugged the big connectors on both sides of the a-pillar in my quest to remove the headliner and decided to move the car slightly ahead. Upon turning it on (press brakes and tried to reverse) a bunch of warning messages came up and the cars e-brake activated. However the dashboard message indicated it wasn't and the car wouldn't move. I then got out and closed the doors by mistake and now it won't open. The car apparently is still in drive and so the doors/windows won't open either with the key fob or the remote app. Is there a way to extrude the door handles or completely power off the car from under the hood (I'd left it open).
I unplugged the big connectors on both sides of the a-pillar in my quest to remove the headliner and decided to move the car slightly ahead. Upon turning it on (press brakes and tried to reverse) a bunch of warning messages came up and the cars e-brake activated. However the dashboard message indicated it wasn't and the car wouldn't move. I then got out and closed the doors by mistake and now it won't open. The car apparently is still in drive and so the doors/windows won't open either with the key fob or the remote app. Is there a way to extrude the door handles or completely power off the car from under the hood (I'd left it open).
Would it blow up the pyrofuse by any chance? I was afraid of that.
edit: if it's not powered down first
brainhouston
Active Member
Nope. I did it multiple times while fixing the car.
Just reconnect fireman's loop first after or you'll get bunch of errors
